After the car hits 100,000 miles I am planning a restoration and this is what I was thinking for the engine. Any ideas or improvements? This is going to be a stock restoration so the engine must outwardly appear so. This is supposed to be a 225 with a mild attitude that can be peppy but better on mileage than stock. Exhaust system will be Accurate Hi-Po exhaust 2.25" single with high flow muffler.


Carburetion
4352 Holley 1920 49-State Carb
· #57 or #58 jets

Intake Manifold
Stock 1BBL Holley 1920 Manifold
· Jet-Hot 2500 Ceramic Coating
· No porting or polishing

Exhaust Manifold
Stock Manifold Cast Iron
· Jet-Hot 2500 Ceramic Coating
· Polished only

Cylinder Block
1970 "-2" Block
· Bored .030" over
· Stand pipes
· Enlarged oil drain back holes
· Polished lifter valley
· Added fuel pump oil hole
· Acid cleaned water jacket

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods
Stock Forged Crank and Connection Rods
· Polished journals on crank
· Polished oiling holes
· Added Windage Tray
· Special Rear Main Seal

Pistons
8.5:1 Compression Pistons
· Plasma-Moly rings
· Hypereutectic Flat top Pistons
· Full Floating Wrist Pins

Camshaft
Choice 1 - Solid Cam
Comp Cams 64-240-4
· Grind: 252S
· RPM Range: 800-4500
· Valve Timing: 0.006"
· Valve Lash 0 Int/Exh: .010"/.012"
· Lobe Separation Angle : 110°
· Intake Centerline: 106°
· Duration @0.050"- Int/Exh: 215/215
· Valve Lift - Int/Exh: .435"/.435"
· Lobe Lift - Int/Exh: .291"/.291"

Exhaust Closes 17ATC
Opens 57BBC

Intake Opens 17BTC
Closes 57ABC

Choice 2 - Hydraulic Cam
Comp Cams 64-246-4
· Grind: 252H
· RPM Range: 800-4500
· Valve Timing: 0.006"
· Valve Lash - Int/Exh: 0"/0"
· Lobe Separation Angle : 110°
· Intake Centerline: 106°
· Duration @0.050"- Int/Exh: 206/206
· Valve Lift - Int/Exh: .425"/.425"
· Lobe Lift - Int/Exh: .283"/.283"

Exhaust Closes 12ATC
Opens 60BBC

Intake Opens 20BTC
Closes 52ABC

Cylinder Head
Stock Cylinder Head
· Polish Exhaust Ports only

Ignition and Distributor
Chrysler-Essex Distributor
· Pertronix Ignition Conversion
· Bronze Drive Gear
· Stock Ignition Coil
· 8mm Electronic Suppression Wires
· Champion RN14YC plugs


Valvetrain
· Valve Springs 251lbs

Oil Pump
Stock Oil Pump Housing
Hemi Oil Pump Spring

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Just my 2 cents...

Carburetion
4352 Holley 1920 49-State Carb -1 barrel OK for mild street build
· #57 or #58 jets

Intake Manifold
Stock 1BBL Holley 1920 Manifold -No problems here
· Jet-Hot 2500 Ceramic Coating
· No porting or polishing

Exhaust Manifold - No Problem here- polishing won't make any gains so save some time and effort.
Stock Manifold Cast Iron
· Jet-Hot 2500 Ceramic Coating
· Polished only

I would also take a die grinder to the casting flash and the area where you need to access the #4 port triangle washer and nut for easier future access. Make sure your heat riser is functional.


Cylinder Block
1970 "-2" Block
· Bored .030" over
· Stand pipes -Save the money, not needed
· Enlarged oil drain back holes - Save the money here too, not needed, stock drainback holes will keep some oil in the bay to oil the bore properly.
· Polished lifter valley -Not needed either
· Added fuel pump oil hole- No problem here, but unless racing and turning high rpm, again not really needed.
· Acid cleaned water jacket -Good application here.

Make sure to also remove any casting flash or aberations you find.

Crankshaft and Connecting Rods
Stock Forged Crank and Connection Rods
· Polished journals on crank
· Polished oiling holes
· Added Windage Tray - This will pay dividends if turning higher rpm, maybe worth a couple HP on the lowend.
· Special Rear Main Seal

Pistons
8.5:1 Compression Pistons- might as well go 8.8-9:1 for a little more chutzpah! With the build choice you can still run regular.
· Plasma-Moly rings - these are good for long term street use
· Hypereutectic Flat top Pistons- not needed for the low compression you are building, save the money and go stock.
· Full Floating Wrist Pins- again save the money here as well, I would do this if you were building a 4 barrel, high compression build.

Camshaft
Choice 1 - Solid Cam - This cam will work OK, it really shines 4 degrees advanced and with a 2 barrel, but some blanks have had the oil gear hobbed wrong and one day you will be rebuilding the engine again, running 9:1 compression, you may be rebuilding the engine again...you might think about Aggressive Ted's cam-for the price OCG can regrind your cam blank and lifters at less cost than comp will sell you a stick and new lifters.

Comp Cams 64-240-4
· Grind: 252S
· RPM Range: 800-4500
· Valve Timing: 0.006"
· Valve Lash 0 Int/Exh: .010"/.012"
· Lobe Separation Angle : 110°
· Intake Centerline: 106°
· Duration @0.050"- Int/Exh: 215/215
· Valve Lift - Int/Exh: .435"/.435"
· Lobe Lift - Int/Exh: .291"/.291"

Exhaust Closes 17ATC
Opens 57BBC

Intake Opens 17BTC
Closes 57ABC

Choice 2 - Hydraulic Cam---I would not even bother with this cam and the headaches to set it up in your block. (You have a 1981+ rocker setup on hand, right?)


Cylinder Head
Stock Cylinder Head
· Polish Exhaust Ports only- OK, I would also take the time to do a little clean up in the intake ports and do a little massage work near the valve guide bosses to allow it to breathe a little more.

Ignition and Distributor
Chrysler-Essex Distributor - Stock distributor is lazy and won't make the best use of your mods so far, recurve/respring will be required, this is the best mod for the money.
· Pertronix Ignition Conversion
· Bronze Drive Gear- Not needed, at least the plastic gear will not leave bronze flakes floating in your oil, the plastic gear will crack and fall apart and won't make it past the pump screen
· Stock Ignition Coil
· 8mm Electronic Suppression Wires
· Champion RN14YC plugs -NGK ZFR5-N will be the better choice in getting the stratified charge burned correctly.


Valvetrain
· Valve Springs 251lbs- since your cam choices are very mild, new stock springs will work fine.

Oil Pump
Stock Oil Pump Housing
Hemi Oil Pump Spring- again not needed, stock oil pump is fine unless you plan on turning 4-6000 rpm, as it sits with the 1 barrel the engine will run out of breath around 3500-4000 anyway. If you need a little more pressure stick a small nut under the spring in the pump housing and that will shim it for about 10 more psi. Just remember if the pump is working hard it may exacerbate the oil pump gear issue with the comp cam and it can go bad in a hurry...I suggest getting one of Doc's hardend pump gears or using your original pump gear and pressing it on your new pump if getting a new one.

Also on the list should be a double roller chain for timing set (cloyes, dynagear, SA Gear = OK, you don't need the Rollmaster setp).



-D.Idiot

Oh, yeah, double roller timing chain, I forgot about it. Thanks DI. I apprieciate the input. What I am looking for in the next life for my slant is to make it a little more powerful, better on mileage, great for longer highway driving and quick on the street.

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Personally, I don't think the cost of a double roller timing set is justified for this typ of build. A stock type timing set with a steel cam sprocket is fine. I run the stock type in my race engines.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Any ideas on output? I was hoping for 150-160hp and 225-250 on torque.

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

I would normally advise that route but I've seen two types of cam gears in recent sets gotten in the last 4 years, one is a nice cast piece that looks like it would last for 75K (used to see these in older sets like Melling used to make), the other is a pot metal type with holes in it and i worry that that type will not last that long (first saw this type in Cloyes and dynagear sets being sold 5 years ago and at present).

I think it will be short on that HP mark, my last fat pak build was about 196hp on the ground using the reverse 1/4 mile calculator...my BV engine at 9.6:1 with a Holley 2305 350 cfm and a comp cam extreme short stick grind was about 160 hp at the crank... Your torque with a mileage build would be closer at the 225-230 mark...at this level you are just fighting for a broad flat torque band in the rpm range you are driving the car and picking up 1-2 hp here and there from simple improvements.

-D.Idiot

What would constitute a major improvement?

_________________
Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.