:p seriously though.

I have a 73 Dart 225 slant six with about 80 thousand miles on it.
I don't know what happened. Ive had this car for three years now and besides a few adjustments with a flat head, its been awesome.
however, this is the first year it has been stored outside. (bundled up of course, but still)

let me preface this by saying that I am not a stupid girl, but a novice mechanic at best and need things explained in a this component works like X and if it isn't performing like X this is why and what you should look for. I really get a kick out of problem solving and mechanics and understand most of it...but just in case.

I'm also visual learner(Industrial Designer by trade)...so the more pics the better.
Sorry I'm being so picky!!

I ordered the books you should have when you own a slant six as suggested by that other post and am eagerly awaiting my summer reading. but in the meantime, I would love to bounce this off you guys to see what you think.

73 Dart Slant Six
Orange Ignition box
msd coil
new Holly 1920
new gas tank and pump, all the lines are good.

me and my dad checked everything over last weekend and started it up and it idled and ran amazing like usual. I drove it about 30 miles with no problem, then four more around town trips over the weekend. Then, all of a sudden, I took it two miles down the road to Kroger, made a sharp right turn into the parking lot, and it stalled. I got it going fine and parked, but when I came out, the car started, but ran rough and I stalled twice driving home. Like every time I took my foot off the gas.

(this is embarrassing especially when you're a girl so I am DETERMINED to fix this so I can lord over my man friends.)

so I came home and did some research. Upon getting in back to the driveway, I couldn't even get it to idle. I replaced the orange box with the stock black one, and when that did nothing, replaced the coil with the stock one, just to get back to square one.
I was then able to start it, but only for about two minutes before it slowed and died.
then I checked the cap and rotor, which was a little tiny bit corroded, and swapped them out because they're all under auto zones fantastic lifetime warranty.
still no idle. just start, lope, die.
checked the ballast resister, which is good. but really REALLY hot. I guess this is normal?
and then I started poking around the ignition box and prodding connections. I pushed on the plug for the box and that little round thing with screws sticking out next to it(also on the box) and got electrocuted...I don't know if that's normal.

but after I did that I got it to idle. so I checked for vacuum leaks the redneck way because I couldn't find the gauge but the cleaner spray didn't change the idle. I also didn't light myself on fire. yay.
found another post on here with the same symptoms that recommended I check for lose manifold and carb bolts and the carb was lose so I tightened it. no difference.

They also suggested valve lash adjustment might be too tight, but from what I can gather, mine isn't adjustable?
It was still idling fairly well, so I took it for a test drive, and it was fine under throttle for about three blocks, then I made another hard right and it stalled. and started ALL OVER. hard to start, wouldn't stay running. almost like when I turned the key and pumped the gas, it wasn't doing anything. then ALL OF A SUDDEN with my foot on the gas trying to start it, the rpms jumped, I got it in gear, and was able to get home. but every time I took my foot off the gas, it tried to die.

I came home, got it to idle again, found another post suggesting I check the timing and set the idle at 2.5 turns. the timing is good, and after I turned the screw it idled great. I got excited, took it down the block again...and AGAIN its FINE for like two or three blocks, but the second I hit the gas to make another right turn, it stalled and was impossible to start all over. So I gave up for today.

Sorry that so long. I just felt more information was better. So....any suggestions would be awesome. It doesn't really make sense anymore to me. I'm wondering if the carb needs a rebuild due to winter/humidity corrosion? but its barely a year old.

aaaaanyway...thanks for reading. :]

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As my father always says,
If you cant fix it with duct tape or epoxy,
It cant be fixed.

It sounds like your ballast resistor is taking a dump. They are cheap. They are fine when cold and get snarky when hot.

.....and I would have a go at the carb. The right turn thing might indicate float setting.

It wont hurt to dump a lil alcohol in the tank to get rid of any winter condensation (methyl hydrate is what its called in Canada)

Avoid Kroger.....it seems to cause problems for your car.

You dont seem like a stupid girl......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I'm with Sandy in BC on this forsure, just in a different order.
You said 'New" 1920 carb., I would be suspect of the carb. first and then the ballast resistor(hot,but not that hot!)

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1964 Dart GT

There are a couple of things to ponder.

The idle circuit mixture screw adjustment. 2-1/2 turns out may be a starting point. Adjustment needs to be tuned in further to arrive at proper idle mixture.

If a '73 doesn't have adjustable rockers, then something serious has been done to the engine. Hydraulic lash adjustment didn't occur for quite some time.
The only way to know is to remove the valve cover and look at the rockers.
A hydraulic conversion is possible, but requires a lot of parts be changed out. Double check. If somebody put a hydraulic valve train in, it would include hollow pushrods, and some very specific parts to make it work. Virtually none of the mechanical system can be used.

Turning a corner, and then having a problem, points at something bad happening in the carburetor. Something getting bound up, or something coming loose and plugging a jet or air bleed.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Most likely the original owner ran low and oil and poked rod #5 out the driver's side fo the block and they installed a 1981+ slant six that was available... pull the valve cover and see if they have adjusters or not...a first check before that would be to see what kind of spark plugs you have (part number), and if the valve cover is straight at the head mounting flange on the passenger side or if it has an offset in it as it nears the firewall.

Back in 1973-1974 the stock carbs had some float problems that caused them to die when cornering, your carb should have been rebuilt at least once by now...it might be time to rebuild it again and look to see if you have any crud floating around in the bowl to plug the passages in the throttle body and of the float/needle and seat is still in good shape.

The fact that it got stored outside might be problematic especially if you have a stale tank of ethanol gas you are trying to burn up (then do Sandy's fix to get the spare moisture out of the fuel).

Welcome to the board and glad you are getting a hands on experience.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Id be suspect of the carb as well. Indications for this is that when messing with the idle adjustment you had an improvement. Also that while you were under there and got shocked, which led to an improvement, may have just been the carb sitting still or cooling off etc. (grabbed the distributer once while running to change timing and got hit about 3-5 times before I could let go )

There is another thread around here about a person turning and it stalling, something to do with a pcs of metal inside the carb that needed looked at. Maybe Ceej or D.I. can fix me on that one. (might be diff carb issue)

I would also look into fuel line routing, it may (big if) be a vapor lock issue as well. When it sits and you fiddle with it, then it cools. Then you get running and driving (hood shut etc building heat) then it starts to boil off the gas creating a vapor lock. I used to have an old 200 ford 6 that done the same. Look at where the fuel line runs and how close to heat it is. I say big if bc its been fine for 3 yrs, but Id still look.

Hope these help, and if you like pictures, use google and type what you are looking for "holley 1920 carb" "slant 6 fuel line (routing)" and use images. Ive learned a lot of what to do bc of this board. and the pics, which normally come from this forum or FABO. Good Luck and keep us posted.
Pohlman

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Welcome aboard Stig.

I have to agree that this left turn syndrome points to carburetor problems. As stated earlier these 73 & 74 cars barely ran off the show room floor, and one of their problems was stalling when turning hard.

Is the “newâ€￾ Holley a “factoryâ€￾ rebuilt off the shelf auto parts store unit, or a New Old Stock (a unit that has been sitting on a dusty shelf since its manufacture in 1973), if so it probably needs a rebuild kit.

If it is a factory rebuilt it is a good chance the carburetor was reassembled will-nilly with nonspecific slant six that may or may not work well together for whatever reason. It has been the experience of some folks here that some remanufactured carburetors can be problematic; others have had good luck with them.

If this new carburetor previous to fuel tank change ingested any of the old gas from the old tank there is a good chance it sucked up a load of crud plugging up the idle circuit just enough to cause a lean condition leading to poor idle quality, or old fuel varnished up the carburetor’s internals; fix is: disassemble, clean, pay attention to condition of float and its level adjustment, and install rebuild kit per instructions.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

One other idea: Look for evidence of fine rust in the fuel system and carburetor. It can temporarily clog the filter and cause intermittent issues with the carburetor.

Also, Welcome!

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Need some clarification:

- ..."new Holly 1920"...
..."I'm wondering if the carb needs a rebuild due to winter/humidity corrosion? but its barely a year old." ...

So it was installed last year. Did you used the car a lot between installing the carb and storing it for winter, or you installed it just before storing?

The turning right thing... as I remember, if there is no baffle in the carb tank, the car would die when turning left, not right; but again, you should have had the same problem last year when you installed the new carb (By the way, I also bought a new/"remanufactured" carburetor this year, and when I opened it there was no baffle in the tank, I opened my old carb (I did not return the core), took the baffle and installed it in my new carb, and presto! Works nicely).

I lean to the idea that there is something floating somewhere that gets sucked and plugs something (as Ssg Pohlman points), and then unstucks when you shut the car off. Also, the float in the carb deteriorates with time (absorbs gas), but is only one year old, hopefully should be in good shape.

Other things to check: the spring on the carb float, check if is properly installed, or is out of place (usually you "nail it" through a hole in the float lever, buy anyway...); gas filter (as slantvaliant pointed). Good luck!

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Hi!

When you pull the 4 screws that hold the float bowl off be sure to capture all the gas as it leaks out and look for any sediment and what color it might be....rust verses brass, or rubber....maybe even some water droplets. I use a cut down red Folgers plastic coffee can to catch the fluids.

The debris may help lead to diagnosis. Little chunks of black rubber means the new fuel is eating the old lines, rust, water, etc.....I run a fuel water separator on my Dart and it has been a real blessing.....

Inside my 1920 carb next to the float there is a small metal vertical divider that helps minimize fuel slosh when you go around corners and a spring that helps lift/balance the float.

Sandy's advice is good! Down here we use a product called Seafoam. Works very well!

Click on the red link below my name to view pictures of the carb, fuel separator, etc....Put it in slide show mode for captions and larger pictures.

Hope that helps!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for describing what the baffle is Ted...

For TheStig, you can also take advantage of some of the material in this forum, so you don't need to wait until summer ...
Click the links to:
"Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) – Engine" (Top of the engine section in this forum)
"Carburetor operation & repair information" and
"Holley 1920 operation and repair manual"

And you can read how the Holley 1920 works, the description with all terms like carburetor bowl, and baffle, and how it is relatively simple to rebuild...

Good Luck again!

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Forgot one thing.......

On the shock you received......means you need to have a better ground on your Orange ECU so it doesn't try to go through you! Be sure the paint is scraped off or add a ground wire and use stainless steel screws (no rust). I did that years ago on mine.......no more shocks!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The most important thing is to stay clear of Kroger.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Definitely check the float level/condition of the float. As noted by practically everyone on this forum, "rebuilt" carbs from the parts house are a dice roll. A baffle should help with dying on hard corners, but you really shouldn't have that problem if you have enough fuel in the bowl to begin with. Check for anything that can restrict fuel flow. Float level set too low, clogged fuel filter/pump/lines, kinked fuel line. Like someone else mentioned, you could also have an intermittent clog from debris in the carburetor. Did you replace all the rubber lines? Did you install a new sender with your new tank?

I hope you didn't use one of those gas tank sealer/protector kits on your new tank. Coincidentally, I was just bitten hard by this. After experiencing similar but more severe symptoms during a road race, I took off the short rubber line going from the sender to the hard line to find a giant clog of that stuff right on the end of the hard line. Lost almost a whole race weekend for that mistake.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Wow! thanks for all the advice!!

I got the rebuild kit in the mail today so...that's going to be a learning experience. It doesn't seem that tough tho.

The carb was a re-manufactured one and I put it on in the beginning/middle of the summer. I thought that would fix a flat spot issue I had and couldn't figure out...and I got it on sale. :/ but I think that my chan is worn out. Fortunately every time Ive needed ANYTHING for this car its been less than 30$ lol

Im going to tackle the carb tomorrow and reset it to whatever factory standards are and go from there.

Thanks again for the help.

I'm weirdly glad that I have adjustable valves because I really wanna see it running cause I'm weird like that. :/

but with any luck, I will be up and running again next week and I can post some pics of my dart and start enjoying summer!

_________________
As my father always says,
If you cant fix it with duct tape or epoxy,
It cant be fixed.