Hey everyone. I'm hoping that I'm not bringing up a subject that is overly discussed, but I could use some advice.

I'm starting the re build of my 70 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six. I've got the crank in, pistons ringed, and in. Next on my list of things to do was install the camshaft. It's all original, solid lifter design. Sadly, I can't find the bumpstick! I think there's a chance that I left it at the machine shop, and that would have been about 5 years ago. I will be going over and asking if there's one sitting around there that could be mine, but in the event it's gone for good, I'd like to have advice on going to a hydraulic lifter set up, and even roller if possible.

Does anyone make a stock, or mild grind in a hydraulic or even roller set up? Website? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Beitie

_________________
2015 Dodge Dart GT (Daily Driver)
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona, Top Banana #3874 of 4000 (lots of fun)
1970 Dodge Dart Custom 225 Slant Six, Auto, A/C (good car, engine rebuild)

Your entering the twilight zone!

Know that none of your rocker assembly, pushrods, and so forth can be used that came with the solid lifter engine.

Go to the Engine FAQ and look around. The swap can be done, but you must replace the rocker shaft, rear rocker shaft bolt, rockers, pushrods, and may have to modify the cam itself to install hydraulic lifters. Oiling requirements are greater.

The lifters are oiled via the rocker shaft, rockers, and pushrods on a slant six. There is no oil passage that leads to the lifters through the block. Oil must flow down through the pushrods for the lifters to pump up.

Now that this has been said, I assume you are not building a performance engine. The selection of hydraulic cams is extremely limited for the slant six, unless you have one ground at someplace like OCG, and then they are still pretty mild. If you're planning to pump up the power, you would be better served with a mechanical valve train.

There is a contingent of us that is looking into a mechanical roller cam shaft. These do not exist for all intents and purposes at the moment. OCG is going to build us one based on a pretty nasty Normally Aspirated cam that is noted in the user submitted grinds. Look at the Isky. Probably not what you want if your street driving.

2¢

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Pretty much for a hassle free stock build if you can't find the cam and matching lifters you'll be needing new or reground lifters and be looking at a Melling CS-380, or an upgrade to OCG 818.

There's more field to cover if you decide to bump the compression up to 9:1 and get a 2 barrel...


-D.Idiot

So from the sounds of it, going hydraulic is out.

This will be a street driven car only, though I don't mind a little more oomph. When I'd take the car to one of our local car shows, I'd always wonder if it would break 100 hp at the rear wheels, since a dyno was available to use. Though, at that time the valves weren't in the best shape, and the machine shop said I was more than likely just running on 5 cylinders.

I still have my push-rods and lifters. I know exactly where they are and the order they are in. I'm just stumped on what I did with the cam. Everything else is very neatly bagged in a Ziploc bag with what part it contains exactly written on the bag. I'll get to the Machine shop on Friday and see if by chance it's laying around there.

Beitie

_________________
2015 Dodge Dart GT (Daily Driver)
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona, Top Banana #3874 of 4000 (lots of fun)
1970 Dodge Dart Custom 225 Slant Six, Auto, A/C (good car, engine rebuild)