Look for the vacuum diagram under the hood of your truck and look in the emissions systems chapter at the back of your factory service manual.
For now, I would put the timing around 5-8 BTDC. You can fine tune it later.
The fuel systems section of your factory service manual will have a picture of a Carter BBD that identifies the various ports on the carburetor.

In the short term, the distributor vacuum hose fitting is on the passenger side of the carburetor about in the middle of the float bowl.


Like I said, find the diagram in your factory service manual and it will show you what each fitting on the carburetor is for. You need to verify that your truck is one that needs the fuel filter with three outlets and that the outlets are plumbed correctly.
Always helpful.
No. You can leave the computer plugged in but it won't be controlling anything. The extra plug for the distributor can just dangle.

You might find this helpful:

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

First pic has already plugged hole
Second there's a hose don't know where it should go or if I plug.
Next there'sa metal vacume diaphragm don't know what to do bout it.
Last the valve cover to air filter housing, my other truck has a chrome cap. Do I need
this going to air filterwith this set up?

Thanks yea I got a couple manuals usually never bother with looking at emissions chapter. The diagram will help tons. Where does the heated air port off carb go? Or plug?

Valuable information is contained in all chapters of the factory service manual. The emisions chapter should have a vacuum diagram of where all the vacuum hoses go on your truck.

The heated air port supply vacuum to the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. Looking down the snorkel of thew air cleaner you will see a flapper in the floor of the tube over the small round metal lip that sticks out the bottom of the tube. There should be a flexible metal hose from that lip to a sheetmetal assembly around the exhaust pipe. The vacuum line from the carb goes to a thermostat mounted on the main air cleaner body. A vacuum line goes from the thermostat to the actuator for the flapper valve. When the thermostat senses that it is cold enough outside it permit the vacuum from the carb to flow through to the actuator, causing the flapper to open and allowing hotter air drawn from around the exhaust pipe to be introduced into the intake. Don't plug it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Unplug it and hook it to the thermostat on the air cleaner. Appears to be the EGR vacuum amplifier feed. If you want a functioning EGR valve, leave it hooked to the carb and let it run to the "hockey puck" bolted to the head.
THe metal vacuum diaphragm is the vacuum operated choke pulloff. It should be connected as shown in the diagram to a port on the back of the carb below and to the right of the EGR fitting.
Yes. This is the crankcase air filter. It must be hooked up to the air cleaner. If you don't mind stinky fumes leaking from under your hood and polluting the air and stinking up the ca in your truck you can leave it disconnected, but why? Just hook the hose to the air cleaner and the vapors will be sucked into the engine.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yea guess usually I just pull off all the extra emissions stuff. And thought I'd be able to not have computer underhood.

Define "extra emissions stuff."

Regardless of what your state and local laws are with respect to emissions inspections and equipment, it is a violation of Federal law to remove or tamper with any emissions equipment installed by the manufacturer. Will you get caught if you do? Probably not. Then again, conscientious repair shops won't work on a car that has been modified since they can be fined $5000 if they are caught doing it. I have had a muffler shop refuse to work on the muffler line of a vehicle because a previous owner of the vehicle had removed the catalytic converters the vehicle was built with.

That being said, a realistic approach to improving the fuel economy and performance of your truck would be to disable the EGR valve and remove or hollow out the catalytic converters. While EGR valves have been integrated into modern fuel injection systems and function perfectly in modern cars, the EGR systems used on slant six powered vehicles were not the best designed or implemented systems. Similarly, modern fuel injected vehicles live quite happily with catalytic converters but carbureted vehicles usually do not. Typically the carburetor is unable to control the fuel mixture tightly enough to prevent the catalytic converter form failing due to too much fuel being passed through the engine and into the converter. This leads to the catalyst in the converter overheating, melting, and ultimately clogging the exhaust line and reducing performance and economy.

Besides the EGR valve and catalytic converter, the emissions devices on your truck are really benign from a performance standpoint and beneficial from an economy and environmental standpoint. Sure the hoses are messy, but you get used to it.

You absolutely can get rid of the underhood computer and the wiring between it and the sensors, provided you keep the wiring for the other electrical items you are keeping on the car.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yea so all the "extra stuff" its to involved and limits accessability. I like to keep things simple, It doesn't make it run easier, but think its a holley carb, had paper tag with name. If my vehicle doesn't have emissions stuff I'd have to change carb? Was backfiring through the carb and gonna get new optima battery this ones weak.

OK- you are seeing many things and trying to diagnose using the wrong criteria.

(1) If your carb has a Holley sticker on it it has been remanufactured by Holley. The carburetor itself is definitely a Carter model BBD carburetor. Remanufactured carburetors are really hit or miss wen it comes to quality.

(2) It looks like the only emissions equipment your truck has are the PCV valve, the crankcase breather, the EGR valve and associated vacuum amplification hardware, the air injection pump, and the catalytic converters. As I said above, it is a Federal crime to modify any emissions equipment. That being said, removing the catalytic converters and the EGR valve and associated hoses will likely help the truck run better in all ways as well as clean up the engine compartment. If you remove the cats there is really no point to the air injection pump so you can likely remove that too. However, I would keep all the hardware in a box in case you get found out by an emissions inspector.

(3) You do not have to change your carburetor. In fact, I suggest you simply rebuild the carb you have and pay close attention to setting all the settings correctly.

Backfire through the carburetor is typically caused by a fault in the timing system and/or a vacuum leak. Given that your truck had a lean burn ignition control, I would not be surprised at all if the backfiring through the carb was caused by a problem with the lean burn system. However, you need to also be sure to check for vacuum leaks and to make sure the carburetor idle mixture and meter rods are set correctly.

Not to be rude, but your questions suggest that you are fairly new to working on a carbureted vehicle. I strongly advise you to purchase a copy of the factory service manual for your truck and read it and use it diagnose the problems with your truck.

Getting an Optima battery won't solve any of your problems. Save your money and spend it on diagnostic tools, service manuals, and a carb rebuild kit.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed: Ditto

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I just went back and looked closer at the last two pictures you posted of the carburetor. The choke thermostat housing is broken. The tab with the bolt through it looks like it has rusted off. The housing is supposed to sit perpendicular to the cylinder head. If the choke thermostat is pushed back like than then (a) the choke linkage is likely binding and (b) the choke won't close all the way which will lead to a lean condition until the motor is completely warmed up. The engine likely won't go to high idle either.

I strongly recommend the CarbsOnly electric choke conversion kit discussed HERE. You want kit number 1232.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Is that one of the welded intakes? Just something else to keep in mind once all the other stuff is sorted out.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

It looked like it to me. The seams can leak on those things, thus creating a vacuum leak of significant proportions. .

Sam

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Yea the optima battery wont make it run but I've been hard on the current one, it tests weak after charging it at 2amps for over 24hrs. And continuing trying to start it isn't helping. But I can try make this one get through so I'm not being hard on a new one.

And I'm new to anything that isn't necessary to run. Had a carbrated 84 rx7 and no emissions bs. My carbrated sl 6 (82) with engine fron 76 Voltaire with no emissions and its easily accessable, runs. But this other set up is more involved. I need to adjust timing or set it since not running. I skimmed through emissions chapter other then carb diagrams nothing caught my attention too much, I'll go through it again. ( thanks good 2 kno its a carter)

If you discharge any car battery too low it will greatly shorten its life, and possibly kill it. Whenever I have to keep using battery to turn over engine for things like compression tests, I connect a battery charger to it to keep the voltage up.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC