Well as my luck would have it, my oil pan is leaking, and badly at the passenger's side connecting corners: front and rear. As the angle of the engine goes, they're both the lowest corners of the oil pan.

I don't understand what happened. I followed Doc's oil pan article instructions to the letter, but then I get this. I could understand why the front corner would be leaking: I had to break the RTV seal I made between the cork and rubber when I was futzing with the timing cover, but not the rear. I haven't touched that.

I'm still in break-in period, and I have some Comp Cams special break-in additive in with the oil. I'm scratching my head. What should I do? I don't wish to drain the oil out yet, but these leaks need to be plugged.

What do other people do? Would running a thin bead of RTV sealant along the exterior of the seam help at all?

Yes. When I have a troublesome pan gasket and I don't have the inclination to pull the pan to totally reseal it I run a fat bead of RTV along the seal between the pan and the block and then run my finger down it to press the sealant into the cracks. Let that set up for a few hours and you should be good. The idea is to plug any gaps with the sealant. It isn't pretty, but it works.

Have you double checked the tightness of the pan bolts?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I will try that. No, I haven't double-checked the pan bolts since initially torquing them to the specified mark, but I'll do that too.

I assume I must 'dry' the seam of the gasket as best as I can before beading on the RTV, correct? It's oily and I'd wonder if the RTV would actually grab ahold.

Only once out of desperation did I do that... And it worked !
I'm sure your engine is nice,clean,and painted. Mine wasn't so I loosened the pan bolts and sprayed the affected area with brake clean.(Will remove paint) Let it dry and wiped it several times with a clean cloth.Took the RTV and packed it into the crack. Tightened and let it sit for several days to be sure and dry.
Maybe I was just lucky this time.

I second checking the torque. I found in the first 500-1000 miles some of my bolts had loosened slightly. A few on the intake, a few on the oil pan and pump and then the flex plate to converter bolts.

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2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

I'd actually consider loosening the bolts to open up the troublesome gaps,then clean to remove all oil,then push RTV into the gaps,lets it dry a little prior to squeezing it up with the bolts,then put another layer along the outside as described and let it all dry out really well. Silicone will not stick to oil at all so all surfaces need to be cleaned as well as you possibly can.

I just wipe any crud off the seam with a semi-clean rag and smear a bunch of RTV sealant on the crack. If I was going to take the time to scrub it all clean first I would just pull the pan and seal it right. Fo me, the whole is idea is a "quick and dirty" fix as opposed to the slow and clean (and correct) fix.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

http://realgaskets.com/files/automobile.htm has silicone oil pan gasket set for the SL6.

They look like this

Olaf

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Aspenized