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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 7:09 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2002 7:57 am
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Location: Yorktown, VA.
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Anyone out in computer land know if there is a brass float available for the Holley 1920 or is the plastic float the only one available?

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 Post subject: Maybe only in original
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:46 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
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I am not aware of brass ones. All I have ever been able to get was the synthetic ones. Perhaps if you could find an original carb, it might still have one. I gave up on the puny accelerator pump in the 1920 and got a 1945 from the junk yard. After a rebuild, it runs and starts awesome.

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 6:02 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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Hey, what cars came with a 1945 on them, just so I know what to look for?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 7:37 pm 
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:shock:

Eeyikes, a *recommendation* for the Holley 1945? This is the "strangulation" desmogger carburetor that was on '74 and later 1bbl Slant-6s in the North American market. Definitely inferior performance to a properly-built earlier carb. The 1920's a better carburetor design than the 1945, but the Carter BBS is much better than either of them in terms of driveability and performance.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 7:40 pm 
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There's no brass float for the 1920 per se. The earlier variants of this carburetor, 1904, 1908, 1940 -- never used on Slant-6s or any Chrysler product, for that matter -- had brass floats that could probably be made to work in a 1920, but it's more trouble than it's worth. The Nitrophyll floats work fine when they're set up correctly, but you must use the correct one for the carb. There are 7.5g and 12.5g Nitrophyll floats for the Holley 1920.

That side-hung design is a loser...doesn't matter how carefully you set them up, they still want to stumble and stall on left turns because the float gets taken out of commission by the centrifugal force.

Carter BBSs have a better front-hung brass float.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 7:56 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TX
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Hmm, I like the 1945 also. I'd be running one now if I hadn't lost the accelorator pump check ball. I could really tell a difference in the performance with the 1945 over the 1920. If tuned correctly, they can be good running carbs. As for the side hung float starving around corners, some of the later 1920's had a baffel in them. I found one and put it in mine and no more stumble around corners.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:18 pm 
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All of the 1920s had float baffles, right from the start for this carburetor in 1962. Many of these baffles got lost or removed over the years by people who didn't know why they were there. The baffle doesnt' stop the float from "flying" when taking a hard left turn -- instead, its job is to prevent pressurized fuel from the inlet squirting in directions it's not supposed to go.

The 1945 is inherently a low-performance carb. Small venturi, small throat, distributor advance vacuum port located so the vacuum advance comes in late. You can make 'em run OK, but they are not an inherently desireable carb.

As for the 1920, just ask Doc -- they work until they stop. When they stop, no amount of teardown and rebuild will make them start again; they seem to just die.


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 Post subject: I don't know
PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:41 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:01 pm
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Location: Lubbock, TEXAS
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I don't know much about the design for carbs and such. What I DO know is I had tried about 6 different 1920's and couldn't get one to run right even after subsequent rebuilds and adjusting precisely. I thought the 1920's had whimpy acellerator pumps with those little diaphragms and short strokes. The 1945 has a better pump with a longer stroke. The pump is like an old manual water pump on the farm. Unfortunately, I have yet to take the car on the road so I may be back here cussing about how poorly it drives. However, I couldn't hardly get a 1920 to start the engine without massive pumping. If I could have found a decent 1920, I would be happy. I might try a Carter later too. Will they match my manifold and linkage? Thanks. Oh, BTW, you probably think I am an idiot but I don't remember what car I got the 1945 from in the junkyard. I was excited to find a car that had so many parts I had been searching for forever.

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:48 pm 
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Yeah, the BBS will match up to your manifold and linkage. Donno what year car you're working on -- it matters from the standpoint of which BBS to pick.

I used to have barrels and shelves full of SL6 carbs...Holleys, Carters and even a couple Strombergs used in '63 only. Had to get rid of them all when I moved :( :( :(

The 1920 accelerator pump is *NOT* "wimpy", and its stroke is fully adjustable. It's just as easy to adjust the 1920 accelerator pump to give too much fuel on acceleration as it is to adjust it to give too little.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 11:09 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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Hmm, Ive got a Ball and Ball carb from the 64 Polara motor I bought as a spare, along with an iron Prestolite distributor

I looked in my '77 FSM set and it shows the 1945 carb available on any sl6 car that year. I think you are right about all that smog crap after looking at the diagrams, and I think Ill wait for the super 6 intake and BBS carb if Im going to pull anything.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 11:35 am 
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Yep, that iron IBR-4203G Prestolite distributor was a Canada-only deal (the US-market cars got the aluminum-body Chrysler distributor). Cap's the same, rotor and points are different.


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 Post subject: Holley 1920 tricks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 12:01 am 
I visited a local scrapyard and bought a 1920 off of an old Ford Pickup. I only wanted a couple of parts - the clear glass float bowl cover and retainer ring. I had to loose the baffle to use that cover, but it sure looks cool (and I can see the actual fuel level). The 1920 is a tough carb and I've had better luck tuning it than the little Carter. But that may just be me :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Holley 1920 tricks
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 4:30 am 
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Quote:
I visited a local scrapyard and bought a 1920 off of an old Ford Pickup. I only wanted a couple of parts - the clear glass float bowl cover and retainer ring. I had to loose the baffle to use that cover, but it sure looks cool (and I can see the actual fuel level). The 1920 is a tough carb and I've had better luck tuning it than the little Carter. But that may just be me :-)
*************************************************************
Well I'll be damned! Paul, I think you and I are the only ones that possess one of those glass float bowls. I'd like to get 'hold of a couple more, but they're not to be found in my area. Think there's any still around in your area?

Roger
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 6:05 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2003 7:37 am
Posts: 88
Car Model:
hi, i pulled a glass bowl and hardware of a old 60's amc with a holley 1904. pays to look at other cars that used the 1904/1920. i love looking at the "purple" sunoco 110 in the bowl! my buddies will say" what are you running, 2 cycle gas !!". yeah, sure i am. you wanna race me? lol, ron


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 9:35 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
Car Model:
That is so great! I want one!!!

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