Joe,
I run the howards 752002-10 cam in my super six 225. You'll need to upgrade the exhaust pipe to 2 1/2". This cam has some overlap, but it idles decent. It really breathes aand punches on the freeway around 2500rpm.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Thanks VBW. Did you have any work done on the head or block?

So are you saying that 2-1/4 exhaust wont be enough?

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

The blocks .060 over and the heads been milled .030. The 2 1/4 exhaust will be fine, I have 2 1/4, but the way this cam makes the engine breath at higher rpm, I wonder if a slighlt bigger exhaust would help.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Going bigger than 2-1/4" isn't going to be necessary for most uses I can imagine with that cam. It's pretty mild.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

What do you think of this cam grind?

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

Once you start into the "230" @.050 the cam will be a little lumpy and will want to make power at a little higher rpm, to band-aid this you will also have to bring up the compression...(That cam would work great with about 10:1 SCR and a manual transmission, or the proper stall convertor and a kinder rear ratio...to make it "behave" better on the street/automatic tranny you may have to move the LSA to something closer to a 110-111).

-D.Idiot

And making it behave that way is the wrong way to go. You are miles ahead by reducing the overlap through a reduction in duration than by spreading the lobes apart. With stock size valves you really want about a 106° lobe centerline for best torque and power. If you want it to idle better then reduce the duration.

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Joshua

As soon as I find a machinist that is willing to do the job, I will definitely have the valves enlarged and the pockets ported.

The reason I was thinking the #345 grind over the #791 is because I read somewhere that Doc recommends having the exhaust lift a little less than the intake.

Like I said before, I really don’t know what these numbers mean. Sorry for my ignorance, I just know I want to go fast when I want to go fast. That’s my idea of a fun little cruiser, a slant 6 sleeper.

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

A number of people on here have used that cam and I don't know if they are happy with it or not... I am using a similar grind but with 10.5:1 compression ratio. That's a little too much cam if you are planning on keeping the stock bottom end.

^Do you mean a .100 overbore and 198 rods? I was thinking about doing that and using forged pistons too.

After reading this and seeing this, now I’m thinking that I might have a suitable cam already for what I want to do.

So now I think I’m just going to open up the head maybe shave some off and just clean up the short block, put new bearings, timing gears and chain.

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

Do you think I should shave my head say .060 to gain some compression even though I'm going to stay with my stock cam?

Took my head in to have it machined and I forgot all about this.

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4

I woiuld. You are going to loose about .015 in just the difference in head gasket thickness, between the OEM shim steel gasket, and an aftermarket gasket. Then there is the original low compression ratio to start with.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks Charrlie, I called them back as soon as I saw your reply. I asked them to shave off .066, I hope my ignorance pays off. haha

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1964 Valiant - Signet - Convertible - 225 - Push Button 904 - 7.25 - Drum Brakes X4