Ok Im gonna check out the thread on the HEI, I think you posted a link.

Not trying to be difficult, I like driving older vehicles because I like their idiosyncrasies, if I wanted a new car feel than I would buy something new but again maybe it will be the way to get out of this mess.

Let me check it out anyway

Exactly. Pass over any distributor that has more than one pickup, that has no vacuum advance can, or that has points.

HERE's a good candidate. Disassemble, clean it up, run it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The HEI will not eliminate the old car feel, it will just make the ignition system more reliable, more powerful, and cheaper to repair.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Would the dist you gave the link to plug directly into the two prong deal on my harness and away I go.......I get the feeling it will not be that easy by the way you phrased it.......

I think you are trying to have me understand that I can save the plug, save as much wire from plug as possible and I will need to re-route that wire onto some other wires that are going to do what I need them to do?

Is that correct? If so how will I figure out what needs to go where?

Maybe this has been discussed in the past and there is a thread somewhere?

Im gonna check it out for sure

No. If the lean burn computer has ben removed form the truck then nothing will plug into the wiring harness on your truck and make the engine work.
Yes. Salvage the plug and as much of the wires coming off the plug as possible. You will need to fabricate a new wiring harness for the new ignition system you are going to have to install.
Yes, it has and there is. I gave you a link to the thread that talks all about how to convert your slant six to have an HEI ignition system. The thread is HERE. Alternatively, see HERE. I am the guy the poster in that second thread thanks for helping him. The Valiant test mule referenced in that second link was my car.

The instructions in the second link I posted are a little easier to follow since they don't have the relay added to the wiring and they don't refer to the all-in-one coil/module mount. However, I do strongly recommend that you add a relay to the (+) feed to the module.

If you need it, I can draw you a quick and dirty wiring harness for you to mock up to get your truck running with HEI.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

By the way, FYI, the silver thing on the firewall above the head is the voltage regulator for your alternator, not an electronic ignition module. In the pictures you posted I saw no ignition module anywhere on the firewall.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

HUH, I had no idea, thanks for the clarification

This would be helpful, I am a bodyman, not a mechanic. I dont mind mechanics but electrical has always been my weak spot and I mean weak.

After reading the first link I am already scared and thinking this is not for me, seems very technical/complicated. The only thing saving it at this point is I read a post on this board from a guy that sounded like me who confirmed that it was actually very easy.

Here is a simplified HEI ignition wiring diagram. The block at the top with 87, 85, 30, and 86 is a relay. The numbers are the terminal numbers molded into the bottom of the relay.

The plug labelled "lead from distributor" is the distributor plug you need to salvage from the current wiring harness in the truck. Only use the two prong plug.

The only remotely trick part about this is finding a wire that provides a positive feed but inly when the ignition switch is in the on and start positions. There are several to choose from already existing in the ignition wiring. you could use the stock (+) coil feed wire, one of the field wires coming of the distributor, or any other wire that has a current only when the switch is "on."

The metal back of the module MUST be grounded. Fortunately you can also ground it through one of the little metal eyes in the body for mounting screws.

If you get it all done and the truck won't start, you may need to swap terminals on the lead from the distributor.



Let me know if something doesn't make sense. Clicking on that picture will take you to a larger picture that you can print.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks again, am going to look at this a few other things and try to make some sense

Thanks again for all the posts, I have learned alot here just in this short time. I am going to the salvage yard tomm to investigate a couple of slant six trucks before they are crushed.

I am wanting to know if I can find one with a standard electronic ignition and the brain......I do not remember seeing this brain mounted on any firewalls so far now that you have helped me to understand the difference between the brain and voltage regulator......I am going to assume that a standard electronic ignition truck is going to also have to have a ballast resistor mounted somewhere on the firewall, at least that is what I gathered from reviewing the HEI thread.

I do not remember seeing this either on any of the parts trucks I have been scavenging from, I guess maybe a standard ignition is not so easy to find compare to the lean burners.

If that wiring diagram is too intimidating, try ignoring all the stuff about the relay. Just hook the HEI module up to the coil (+) and (-) and then to the two wires coming from the distributor. Don't mess with any other wiring.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Ok maybe this is starting to look less intimidating, stupid question is the one not asked so what is the box, direct center at the top of your drawing, where do I get this part, I see you say relay......I guess I need to look at the pict. some more and it will come to me

Yep, this might be the way I go, just going to have some more questions so bear with me, I am pretty anal about things and I overthink everything........

Ok so according to the HEI write-up I still need a standard electronic ignition...is that correct?

They mention a place you can buy them new ( which I prefer ) but original post was made in 2006 I think. Are they still avail new

Assuming they are not and scavenging junkyard what will I look for in a good usable ( for many years ) dist. I am assuming no shaft side to side wear but what other indicators would you suggest I look into?