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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 3:19 pm 
I'm picking up a '67 Valiant slant-six with a Three on the Tree, and have an A-body 4 speed A-833 left-over from another project, a Hurst shifter, etc, and was wondering if this would be a easy bolt-in replacement, as far as interchange of the bellhousing, clutch and stuff. Also, what rear-end gearing was typical of these year Valiants with the slant six/three speed on the tree? Thank you!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 8:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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opening thought, you have to hack a hole in your floor. :(

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 Post subject: 90% chance of 3.23's...
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 10:51 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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3speed manual tranny cars usually got the nice peepy 3.23/3.21 rear gear ratio.

you can swap out the bellhousing, but you may have some z-bar alignment issues and you'll need a floor hump and new carpeting, but if your welding and mechanical skills are up to par, it's a nice weekend project...

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 4:42 am 
Thank you guys for the help!

steponmebbbboom - I can live with hacking up an original. I don't butcher things; I do things as close to factory looking as possible, and I don't mind changing things to what I like. I swapped a 440 and a 4 speed into a plain jane 318/auto '68 Charger, and loved it and never had a problem. It will definately end up looking like a factory job, excepting a Hurst stick. The OEM Inland shifters are garbage.

Cool deal with the rear-end, I was hoping for more peppy gearing. The last slant six vehicle I bought was a smogger '75 Duster with anemic 2.45 gearing. We nicknamed that car "Wheezy" it was so bad.

DusterIdiot - I think my question was answered, but I'll repeat it to make sure.

I will need to change the bellhousing? I can't just pull the 3 speed box, install the 4 speed tranny, open a hole, bolt on a shifter, and go?

I apologize for my questions, like to know of course, and I've never done a slant six before. All my other cars have 440s and I'm getting this one as a fun "economy" car. Who would have guessed I'm actually pretty jazzed about owning a 4 on the floor 4 door sedan. Will post pictures of my new toy ASAP.


Also, I tried signing up and in, but no email was ever sent to me at RabidScott@aol.com, and I can't register again, because the email address is "currently being used". :roll:

-Scott


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 Post subject: trans transgressions
PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 6:17 am 
I just did this conversion in my D-100 and had only minimal hangups. The article on 833's on this site is full of great info! (thanks Doc) The bellhousing issue is covered as well as flywheel and clutch options. The only thing that delayed my trip was driveshaft length and shifter mods. The shaft cost almost as much as I paid for the 833. It is worth it! Floor pans are no sweat with a donor hood (f@#d truck) and either mig welder or brazing rod. I had a van shifter (hurst) that required some creative bending to fit the truck but it wasn't bad. Check out the article. I printed the whole thing and took it to the shop with me. Good Luck! :twisted:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 9:12 am 
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If you're pulling say an old A-903(?), and you want to drop in an A-833 unless you get lucky, all the 3 speed bellhousings (including the one in my '74 Duster) all only have the 3 speed tranny bolt pattern on the back side. If this is the case you'll need to find one that has the 4 speed pattern or in some cases you can find them with 'both' patterns. It's a real hit and miss with mopar's use of bellhousings. If you use say a 1973 housing in the '67 it might have some bellcrank alignment issues, but you sound like you can work that out without any problems. Also if you have the A-833OD from 1975+ you'll need to swap out the bellhousing period, and check for linkage mounting alignment.

let us know how you make out, the standard 4 speed would be a nice update from the 3 speed, and especially if you have one of the 1971-1974 tight ratio units with the 'fun' first gear ratio.

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 6:15 am 
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Here is a link to the 4-speed article:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-spee ... speed1.htm
Check your email for user name / password info.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 6:13 pm 
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Thanks for all the help guys! Check out my new toy!
http://waywardmusclecars.com/Valiant/Valiant.html

I'll probably have more questions later.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 4:44 pm 
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Quote:
Thanks for all the help guys! Check out my new toy!
http://waywardmusclecars.com/Valiant/Valiant.html

I'll probably have more questions later.
Guy, what is that large box between your air cleaner and your washer bottle? Is it an aftermarket heater case???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 12:49 pm 
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Location: Tracy, CA
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Quote:
Guy, what is that large box between your air cleaner and your washer bottle? Is it an aftermarket heater case???
It is; it contains another heater core inline with the in car heater. It has a tube going up to the heater riser, which I believe attaches to the exhaust manifold, which is no longer there because of the headers. Besides that, I can't imagine what else it would do besides maybe aiding engine cooling.


Also, another question, are the A-body three speed trannys and the A-body four speed trannys the same length? Wondering if I'll need to shorten my driveshaft when I put in the four speed.

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Why is the rum always gone? Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:38 pm 
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
A-Body to A-Body of the same year, the 3 & 4 speed trannys are the same length.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 5:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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OH, I see now, that heater case is for arctic climates. Are you sure your Val hasnt done time north of the 60th? What that thing does is it uses water heat to preheat the air going to your air cleaner in climes where ambient air wouldnt let the car reach operating temperature. The heat riser wouldnt be adequate in extreme cold. Niiiice piece! Coming from the north would explain the rest of the goodies in there as well. You probably also have, or had, a circulating block heater or even an oilpan heater. Im sure the car is glad to be down in sunny california, thats for sure!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 6:34 pm 
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Location: Tracy, CA
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Nope this one's an all California baby! Still has the original California black and gold plates issued to it when a new car in 1967, and if it had been anywhere else since then they'd be different!

Image

Who knows. I've been finding a bunch of weird stuff..... true dual exhaust headers, that heater box thingy, an old Mark Ten capacitive discharge ignition, ignition kill switches, a wierd aluminum piece that is bolted under the intake that the water runs through, an alarm that utilizes an old school bell, even has an electric fuel pump. Pretty wacky lil' car....

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Why is the rum always gone? Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 8:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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One owner car?

Could have been taken up north for a few years. Thats the only place that box would do anybody any good. Of course, there are old ladies out there with 20 cats and people who line their hardhats with tinfoil to keep satellite brainscans at bay.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2004 6:54 am 
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I would say, the PO was trying to build fuel milage. Headers, CD ign, staying with the small carb. When he went to headers, he lost manifold heat, so installed the hot water unit under the intake manifold. The water heated air box, takes the place of the preheated air unit on the stock exhaust manifold, which was "lost" when the headers were installed. This will help prevent carb iceing, on humid days, when the temp goes below 45 degrees.

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