i know theres probaly hundreds of these posts on here . so if yous know of any goods ones for me to read please post a link for . i have a rough idear of what i need to do but theres a few ways of acheiving the same goal i guess, & the cheapest & easiest way to do it will allow me to spend more money somewhere else. a few things on my mind is do i mill to get compression or go the 7" rod - kb silolite pistons ( or others ).
i do buy new rods or resize rods & add arp rod bolts ?
what compression & cam & carb do i need ??? & what brand & where to buy?
do i lighten up the valve train & bottom end & turn the 225 a bit harder, or can i achevie good hp with out much hassle & cost. not sure on year of engine yet but it's a 69 car. 225 cid std bore std everything 400 k miles but was driven like a snail. i have a 2 1/2" mandrell bend exhaust from my left side of my v8 system which i'll use on the sl6. i wll use good headers & good alloy inlet manifold & 4bbl carb 450 cfm - 550 cfm if nessesary. 9.5:1 - 11:1 compression? larger valves, port work ect i'll consider all advice. i'm looking at sub 16 sec full weight A body. i'd like to stay with 3.23 gears but will most likey change ratio. looking forward to all help & advice.

just got off the phone to my mate with the vc & slant. it seems that if the 3spd borg warner gear box & or clutch plate can't cope with a tuff life i might as well concider that running a 904 is not out of the question. as for the engine i don't want to waste a lot of money on rebuilding stock parts when i can buy new. machinig is not cheap & in oz theres not many engine shop / machine shop guys that know the ins & outs of mopar engines let alone the slant. i intend on using arp rod bolts , main studs & head studs. grinding the casting flash & rounding off the webs & saving a bit of weight as well as what ever is drilled out of the crank when balancing it. big question is cast cheap pistons & mill the block. or better pistons & new rods, whats most cost effective???? theres many more questions for later like cam, push rods & lifters, valves ect.

Actually, low 16's- high 15's, are not that difficult to achieve.
What will be the primary use for the car? Daily driver, street/ strip, strip only? Is fuel octane, an issue? How about fuel mileage?

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

i guess where it starts getting to costly is where i want to stop. i don't want it to get out of hand & requiring all my time. it's just a weekend cruizer or to take the famliy out for leasure driving & to bbq's ect. but still have plenty of giddy up with a nice note.
we run all of our cars on premium 98 anyway & fuel mileage is not a major concern. if i have to run a bit of octane booster i can live with that. but if i can get away with 95 or 98 octane fuel even better. it's my misus car really & i think she'd like to have a run at the strip every now & then. but i want it to hold it's own against any other old school 6 cyl or mild v8. best bang for buck build i can do.

Stock type replacement pistons will be fine, as will stock rods.
Best bang for the buck, is to increase compression ratio. The only down side is after a certain CR, premium fuel would be required. I would shoot for a minimum of 9-1, up to a max of 10-1. The cam needs to work with the CR. So you will need to take that into consideration. The bigger the cam, the more compression you can run. And the more CR you run, will require a bigger cam. After a certain point low end driveability suffers. Most of my cars are primarilly drag cars, with auto trans, high stall converters, and lower rear gears, so I will defer to others who have done silmilar engines/cars to yours, for specific recommendations.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That's still spot on...looking at the previous posts on trying to whup your buddy's slant, you will be looking at going about 10:1, with a 270 duration cam (like the Erson RV20)...this will still net a streetable engine....with those items in place, the head will need O/S valves and port/bowl work, and you will require an increase in intake/carb/exhaust to make it work best.

Transmission, clutch, brakes will need to be addressed...and likewise, better rear gearing will help as well (a bigger rear axle is mandatory).

-D.Idiot

took the family for a cruise to a car meet tonight in my mates vc. well os valves & bowl & port work are std for me. & so is matching the right parts. now if i use arp rod bolts do they NEED to be fitted before i resize the rods? or does this not matter??? & is beam polishing the rods & cleaning up casting flash & sharp edges on the rods & crank a waste of time ??? i will balance my bottom end after i'm finished. who else makes good cams for the slant ? & where do i get cams , windage trays & other go fast bits for the slant. i really like the look of the aussie speed inlet manifold & headers . has anybody used these??? i've been reading as much as i can about the borg warner diff options we have over here. i might move upto a 3.45:1 ratio & want to look at a 4 speed auto trans , with stall to replace the 3 speed man. i'm sure i want to use as close to 10:1 compression as i can.
in what order do i go about rebuilding this engine so i don't waste time & money on unnecessary items ? & what do i need to measure before i tear it all down ?

Everything is relative to the type of build...a 10:1 engine isn't needing as much "detail" since it's fairly mild compared to an all out 12:1 motor that could come apart in a hairy kind of way...

Typically when I build my engines I measure and record all the data during tear down (crank and rod journals, piston down from the deck-i.e. deck height, bore sizes)...some of this is not really necessary as I use it to see how the engine 'wore' in...the crank measurements, deck height are required to see if the journals are egged and the crank needs reground, and the deck height is needed to compute initial compression ratio and to get an idea of what to do to the block so you can direct the machinist (if going minimal overbore the dimensions the bore wear measurement is desired, but if going performance you'll be going for an over bore that is greater than stock engine bore wear)

If you are taking to a machinist, just have him order the rod bolts and install after checking and resizing the rods, he will also need a kit (you or he can order) so he can hang the pistons. If you are doing all the work, then you should already know the answer to this.

Polishing the beams on the rods will make them stronger and less prone to failure, but in a daily driver at 10:1 it isn't 100% necessary unless you are turning max rpm all the time.

Be careful porting the slant head as they respond well to the treatment but are not like a V-8 head, it's easy to reach water in some runners and the bowl...also if the bowl is overdone the flow can go flat on you at street speeds and become doggy...

Assembly balancing isn't 100% necessary if it's a daily driver which is not used as a full time full rpm car, the slant is already pretty close to being neutral balanced stock.

The aussie speed setup works well, I've seen it in action on one of our local racer's valiant...you will have to research the windage tray and crank scraper situation for who has the best one. I suggest using an aussie speed head gasket.

If you can't find a cam regrinder near you that can give you a good profile you may need to look at regrinders here in the US. For the longer ram manifold and the compression range the Erson 270/270 with will give good torque for street use and have the top end to work with the intake...Anything more than that and mileage will suffer unless you go with deeper gears and the overdrive (3.73-3.91), and really dial it in.
If it was all out race a .5-.55 lift would be desired...street use would be fine in the .47-.48 range.

-D.Idiot

ok thanks D.Idiot . when i was dreaming up my build i was thinking a cam of around the .500" range to make use of the port job. should i port first then flow the head & match a cam to suit? then mill the block to suit the compression needed?
now my idear about balancing was to lighten the crank by cleaning up all the flash & sharp edges as well as the rods & a lick off the fly wheel & then balance after that. after balancing holes drilled & grinding all done it could be up to 1 - 2 lbs lighter, even more if i changed rods & pistons. (i got near 5 pounds out of my 383 rotating mass).
i've droped the lighter pistons & rods idear now. if i can spare the cash i'll do it , thats balancing btw. i love my die grinder lol . thanks again.