So with my plan to keep this mill simple, and 10:1 SCR, what are my options for pistons? I plan on keeping the block , crank and rods stock, and milling the head for added compression. I have seen ads for stock pistons from various places and for Wiseco Forged. Are these my only options? Does anyone make a 10:1ish hypereutectic piston? I have read a couple of posts about KB pistons, but it seems that road is fraught with complication and modification. I would like to keep the "math" as simple as possible without getting into things like cutting down crowns, redrilling wrist pins, etc. Just a "put it together" situation would be great.

P.S.- How come there are no pistons, rods, cams, etc, on the "parts list" page?

The Wiseco Forged pistons make 10:1 on 7.005" rods, not on the stock 6.7" rods. The other paths to high compression are a bit more involved. There was a high compression OEM piston that was part of the Hyperpak build. I don't know of any aftermarket sources for that particular piston. Not that it doesn't exist.

The old school way to do it is with 198 rods, 7.005", and use other over the counter piston options. As the piston moves up toward Zero deck, a lot of considerations need to be made. We go from an engine that couldn't tag a valve, to one that undoubtedly will without proper precautions.

Other than the K-1 build, which still needs to be checked for interference, the other paths forward are involved. Many of the high compression alternatives are one off experiments of varying degrees of success. Being a cup half full kind of guy, I think of my last build as partially successful. Pistons are over the counter aftermarket replacements for a Toyota. Rods are massaged 198 OEM. If I was building the same engine today, I would use the K-1 rods, which believe it or not would be considerably cheaper. With stroke involved, I would be using custom forged, or a Hypereutectic of the same metric variety. Since you are not stroking, the Wiseco piston could be a good choice. It's tried and true.

We'll see if the next one I build is an improvement. It runs more experiments in performance alternatives. No K-1's, but not very good for daily driving either due to the lack of engine coolant.

There is an FAQ inside the Engine section. (Look at the top of the Engine area threads for stickies.) It has various information linked in the form of Threads and some links to sites the either sell stuff, or describe those parts. You will find Cam info there, along with various threads about builds.

CJ

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198? K1? These are new terms for me. What do they mean? Is a 198 rod something that easy easy to attain? Is there an actual part number or description? What's a K1 Build? Again, I have never heard these terms before.

Also, will these rods work with a cast crank? I have heard the rods are not interchangeable between forged and cast cranks.

Not wanting to go with long rods/K1/other fun parts?

You can get a simple rebuild kit, keep all the stock parts and just mill the deck and head and go for 10:1 pretty easy...although, to make best use of the cam you will need to port the head and go for oversize valves...if going that far you are looking at better exhaust and a 4 barrel intake and carb for sure...if going for street use a 270 duration cam is advised (similar to Erson 270/270 cam)... you may want to plug the build into a DCR calculator (search for previous posts for online calculator), and design your engine around an 8:1 DCR...for best power and mileage)...you may want to check out Oregon Cam Grinding's Mechanical flat tappet lifter lobe sheet to look over various grinds available within 30 minutes of your house (and typically at $75 if you provide a stock camshaft core).


Hopefully this is going into a pre 1975 car as PDX smogs everything after 1974 on an idle test, and the build may not pass.

This article can help a bit also to start with:

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/stroking/stroking.htm

DI, I am putting it through DEQ stock first. It has all the smoggies on it. Just need to make it run nice and lean . I don't mind using better stuff, just don't want to get into complicated measurements to figure. "Damnit, Jim, I'm a mechanic, not a mathematician!"

Is decking better than shaving the head? I have read different posts on here where guys are shaving the head .09 -.100 or shaving the block .040 and the head .060. Not sure what motivates the preferences, and these are the kinds of things I want to learn here.
If I put in the "198 rods" and keep the deck close to stock ( just cleaned up), specifically what pistons ( stock cast or forged) can I use that will safely build 10:1, and how much would I shave the head to achieve that? And is that with a typical felpro head gasket or something special?

Porting is a given, have no problem with that. Cam is also important and looking for some actual numbers on that. I see that Comp makes a 440 lift and 260 adv dur cam. Is that about right. Wanting to build a four barrel car with headers, and want to be able to easily find a compatible carb in terms of linkage location, choke, etc.

Too bad you weren't around last year, I sold a short block to another local member for a few $$$ that was the start of a 10:1 engine (he just has to add a head and pushrods).

10:1 isn't anything real special on a slant...one of two combinations I ran was as follows:

1963 Yellow Dodge Truck Block
peeling .106 off the deck to make it about .055 down in the hole
.040 over pistons and moly rings
Recondition stock rods new ARP rod bolts.
Since I have a couple pre-67 cranks that I can't use, I
traded one off for a recon'd 1968+ crankshaft .010/.010
Using my last Mopar Perfomance roller chain timing set up
Erson 280/270 cam ground with a slightly wider LSA, and
ground 4 degrees advanced-overlap for use with Hpak intake
and street manners
Reusing my oversize valve head
ARP head studs and nuts

Cast crank engine would be similar but not so much taken off the deck...
Use a Victor Reinz head gasket for best measure...You will want to do decking on both the head and the deck to acheive your results.

Regardless, you will need to take measurements while tearing it down so you can figure out what to tell the machinist on how much to cut (there are so many variations in manufacturing that the piston can be down in the hole on the cast crank blocks any where from .175 to .145). Not wanting to do the math, just plug it into an online calculator and let it crunch the numbers and you can modify the entries until you see what you want.

Do not use a comp cam for this build...I would be looking at an OCG 791 or so, as a local option for this type of build....

You might think about getting a spare 1968+ engine and building that, then pulling it and storing it so you can swap it back in when you have to resmog in 2 years for your DMV renewal (or you need to find the local mopar club and have them sign off so you can get a historical plate and exempt from smog...or like me, move down to Salem where we don't currently have DEQ).

My mum inlaw lives in Stayton, and we may be moving there soon. Love that little town! NO DEQ! My car is a 77 Volare coupe, so I am getting it to run better with the BBD for DEQ. I do very much appreciate your help on this. Thanks! So you think that stock pistons with a milled deck and a big cam will do it? No strength problems?

Considering that my last runs with the Duster were high 11:1 SCR and stock pistons, with 6000 rpm clutch dumps (until the clutch withered and the fan belt got thrown)...I don't think there'd be a problem with so little compression you are asking (current engine in the duster is now 12.35:1 and has stock .060 over pistons...)... The secret is in the engine prep, oiling passages and oil pump prep, and choosing the setup to work together... The 10:1 above was daily driver to work and back, drove to woodburn for races, drove to medford for a weekend of racing (only problem was again...the clutch didn't like the added torque on launch)...finally pulled the engine for mo' power...which now translates to mo' clutch needed...

Being that you are installing it in a late 'fat' car, design your build around lower end torque than horsepower...it will want it, badly.

Stayton is a nice little town, at least the Napa down town used to keep a remflex slant six gasket set on the rack since the previous machine shop guy did a mid range slant six build for his early duster, but he never took it to the drags to see how it turned out...I rebuilt my duster on my dad's place in the neighboring town of Aumsville (if you do move be wary that the county police are now taking a real dim view of speeding on the country roads and will levy the max fine...)

In answer to your question, the 198 rods are from the base engine, the 198, that was offered from 1970 to 1974. The rods are for use with the Forged crank. They would not be suitable with your current engine, and are not readily available.

K-1/Molner is the name of the rod set that matches the Wiseco forged piston.

DI's build is a lot friendlier on the wallet, and for a street driven car is plenty strong and will produce good power coupled with the right selection of parts.

Even this level of build may be more than you need depending on your ultimate use of the car. It's your car, and you can make the decision.
If the car is primary transportation, building it up may not give you the best bang for your buck. Shorter rear gears can add a lot of fun factor, coupled with the wonderful torque characteristics of the engine. Higher stall can help launch the car, but can have another penalty in transmission life if the car travels at speeds that allow cruise rpm at near stall speed.

If it's a daily driver, think about what you want the car to do, if it's going to be a strip car, then we're talking about another animal. Since your talking about DEQ, it likely is more street, less strip, though it depends on what kind of manners you want from it, and how much time you'll spend at the track. Even at the track, a solid performer that's basically stock can be unbeatable if it's extremely consistent. Slow bracket cars are often feared at the track, when driven skillfully.

Quote: "Faster is Funner!" -Slantzilla, circa 2007-ish

So you can dismiss some of the above if you just want to go as fast as possible. Join us at the track at Woodburn. You can see and talk to some folks that build a lot of inline cars. There is a large community of slant six folks running up here. There are two SSRN events scheduled this year, and the Inliner/Flathead series will be running through the season. Everything from 22 second cars to equipment in the 10's is known to run the series. From mild to wild.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

How cool. I want the car to be a rod meet, show and shine, Fridays down at the Dairy Queen, bracket race a couple times a year car. I plan on putting the cherry on the body and interior and chroming up the engine compartment....and getting enough power and rumble to call it a hot rod and justify the appearance. Like the idea of doing something different that people will look under the hood and say, "Whoa, now you don't see that every day." With lots of money that would be easy: blown hemi with a 727 and 9" Ford with a 4 link. But with a mechanic's income I will have to rely on imagination, creativity....and luck on ebay , lol.

I used to bracket race at PIR back in the 80s and enjoyed it very much.

Yes engine building can get $$ but fun, come on to Woodburn and at least talk and see what Ceej is getting at.

Richard

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