i have a 2bbl intake that has been sitting for a while. it has rust in the runners. anyone have any suggestions for cleaning the rust out of the runners? something i can do at home that doesnt require a sandblasting machine or glass bead. i saw 1930's post about cleaning up the head and that was enough to scare me away from vinegar. looking for something proven that is more or less fail safe.

Marine Clean from POR-15.
Love it!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

for rust? i just looked it up and it doesnt say anything about rust in the description.

just occurred to me. has anyone tried CLR for cleaning rusty car parts?

Marine Clean from POR-15.
Funny, that is what says on my bottles....I have been using it for years!
Says that in my catalog too. That is what I use on all the rusty parts and bolts. Cleans them like carb cleaner on aluminum. It is fantastic and won't eat your parts like vinegar. Marine Clean dissolves the rust like a crazy, looks like brown gravy as it eats through the rust.

I also like the Metal Ready primer to finish the job.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

From their website http://www.por15.com/assets/images/Imag ... er%202.jpg
If it will "remove rust stains from porcelain sinks toilets and tubs" why not from other surfaces?
I wonder why they just don't say it remove's rust.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Liability purposes...removing a rust stain implies that the product will remove the stain and not damage the underlying material...The MSDS sheet says it's a cleaner with a pH range of 8.5, so slightly caustic...they note that aluminum, brass/bronze should have very limited exposure (it will probably eat it or stain it if left too long).

This is just to clean up those ugly boat stains, if using on major components, they expect it to be hot tanked, or a use a convertor, or just use their "paint over rust" product.

Since you say "Rust", it's not an aluminum intake. This stuff works Great! http://www.evapo-rust.com/

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1964 Dart GT

That is exactly how Marine Clean works... and safe to pour down the drain too.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Guess I am lucky - I have a buddy with a glass bead set up. You may want to find some one local and offer cash no receipt and have them glass bead the whole thing. Buying cleaners and your time - you may be money ahead.

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

They sell ultrasonic part cleaners on the interwebs, I've used one for small parts but seen larger ones in use at a shop in town, maybe you could buy one or pay someone for use of theirs? They work pretty darn good.

Don't use chlorine and brake fluid. Fire bad.

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1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

lol. ill be sure not to.

I say that because it has been suggested to me before and I've seen what it does to a plastic bottle and other things, I cannot imagine why people think that is a good way to clean manifolds and exhausts, I guess it's a Tennessee/North Georgia thing....

Go home redneck, you're drunk.

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1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.