Is that even a question?!

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The open diff case is a little over $80, LSD's start at about $380 (clutch type) and my preferred LSD, a Tru-Trac, is ~$425. That is the problem. I'm 5 days into a new job after being laid off nearly 6 months. Working on a used open case option from a local shop that does a lot of diff work. The local stuff-yer-socks JY wants more than new for used. I've yet to be able to break one tire loose, let alone two. Planning for the future is good, but may have to take a back-seat to budgetary concerns.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

What kind of rear?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Matt put a Ford Ranger's 7.5" rear axle in the car. 5x4.5, 3.73's, and is an almost perfect fit (1/2"-1" narrower would be perfect). It is a C-Clip axle, so narrowing it isn't worth the trouble & expense. That also causes a consideration about assembly with any type of LSD - room to work inside the diff itself.

Mild deviation of thread: I see "SBP" and "BBP" used, and I've no idea what is which. To me the 5x4.5" is the small pattern and big is 5x5", but I'm guessing in this world it is the "big" due to the existence of the 5x4" pattern?

EDIT: I quoted the prices above on memory. I'm getting old. So far the best Tru-Trac price that I've found is $468, not ~$425
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-D ... Ford+7.5in.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

BBP is 5X4.5", SBP is 5X4". I have wondered about using a Ford 7.5" myself. Parts should be easy to come by. Amazing they are not cheaper, though. I would likely go to Pick A Part or similar in Sun Valley and buy a whole axle to drop in. Did Matt move the perches or any other mods?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

New perches, but no other mods that I know of. My natural inclination is to move to the 8.8 out of the same trucks since everyone makes stuff for them, but the 7.5 has some merit in that it's lighter and should be more than strong enough for a mild /.

At this point it's purely speculation, but after conferring with a 25 years Ford Tech we think that the brake mounting details of the 7.5 may be the same as the 8.8 Which means that the Exploder RDB's may be a bolt-on....

EDIT: Ordered the open diff case and some Redline gear lube. Already have a bearing kit. Hope the guts of the existing diff aren't too beat up.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

The diff case got here and I've had the bearing kit for a while. I finished the bearings & new case install just before Easter Dinner guests started showing up yesterday. Those Ford axles and their crush sleeves! That one left a kink in my back.

Was tempted to replace it with a solid spacer, but since my torches are over at a friend's shop, case hardening such a spacer would be a big delay. In retrospect I probably could have done it. Really gave the axle shafts a good looking over right after finishing the diff install. The driver's is viable, but on short legs. The pass is about to go away. So I ordered wheel bearings, axles, and new bearing/seal assemblies. Oh, and the OTC slide hammer to get the old ones out! Been occasionally needing a slide hammer for decades.

I'm hoping for all of the pieces by the end of the week. I'll be more or less a bachelor next weekend, so that would be a good time to finally button up this chapter in the Valiant's saga.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Rear axle reassembled and appears to be working fine. Going to take it for an extended drive this afternoon.

A teaser of what I've been messing with here and there:

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

well, adding more carrier bearing pre-load, as suggested by two different experienced axle set-up guys, made the noise worse. Tired of this, I'm just going to drive it for a while. If that kills it then I'll go looking for an RDB 8.8.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Are you going to run a GM rotor and cap on the distributor?

That is the actual goal, yes. To go to a cap that uses the "HEI" type of terminal. Otherwise I could have used the OE dist with the mech advance locked out and saved myself a bunch of work.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

Did you machine a new body or used what core?

It would have been a lot easier to change the terminal end on the wire.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Not sure that I understand. My goal is to eventually have a cap with the spark-plug type of contacts in it. I know that there are conversion 'towers' made, was not and am not interested in those.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite

In prep for the eventual TBI control system I've converted the IGN to use the GM 8 pin module and the GM E-core coil. Still have the old system in place in case something goes fubar on my drive to or from work. Don't expect it to, but I'll leave them in place for the rest of the week.
I've posted in the past that I'm not a fan of the HEI modules, that hasn't changed. However, I'm not so foolish (I hope) as to try to make something else work with the GM TBI system.
No pics yet as it's all so wonky in the wiring that there's no need to embarrass myself...

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite