What do you use on the studs that go into the water jacket to seal them up good? I have had a very minor coolant leak that seems to coming from a couple of the studs mentioned. It is very obvious if the car sits for a couple weeks....I can see a trail of coolant on the drivers side of the block. Normal day to day driving they don't exhibit the leak but I can smell coolant when I park the car. I am thinking it is very minute/slight and the exhaust manifold burns it off. So minute that I have had to top off the coolant once in roughly 2 years with about maybe 2 quarts. Thanks for the advice!

I used the red-copper RTV,, put a little on the threads of the studs before running them in.

Do all the studs run into a water jacket or just some of them (which ones?)

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

Freeze plugs rusting through???

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Not all, but most of them, IIRC.

I use liberally applied Teflon tape (plumbing or whatever is cheap).

Install and remove them using the "double nut" method by tightening 2 nuts together on the fine thread end and running the stud in or out with a socket wrench. If really stuck, vise grips em, and then buy a new stud or chase the threads with a die.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Use the appropriate sealer for the application...Permatex 56521 High Performance Thread Sealant.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... ant-detail

Ken

No, the drip starts way above the freeze plugs... and the funny thing is that I have evans waterless coolant in the system for 2 years now so there isn't a while lot of pressure that builds up in the system.
I think I used gray Chrysler RTV sealer when I put in the new studs, using Lou's suggested stud R/R method.
Next plan is to remove the intake/exhaust stack, install a better intake/exhaust manifold gasket and use the Teflon tape or paste on the studs. I almost had myself convinced to use red Loctite but maybe not now. The permatex thread sealer sounds about right!
Unless there is a head gasket/ internal problem, I really believe that one or more studs is leaking ever so slightly and getting burned off by the exhaust manifold causing the smell.
Thankyou guys much appreciated !

Red Loctite should only be used in applications where you need high strength. It has to be heated to 400F to release! For automotive applications, blue Loctite is generally sufficient. I've had occasion to use green Loctite retaining compound for ball bearings in a transmission where the housing bore was worn. There are also a lesser known Loctite for sheet metal screws, and a primer (aerosol can). If you use primer, you must work quickly. Loctite is catylized by copper ions. If the metal alloy contains little or no copper, it won't cure. These situations require use of the primer.

When you repair the leaking studs, chase the threads on both the head and the stud, then wash with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Allow it to thoroughly dry before re-installing the studs.

Ken

In '08 I replaced all manifold studs, and locked & sealed with blue Loctite, not a drip of coolant lost since. As stated above one must chase threads and clean them well as the blue stuff won't stick to oil or antifreeze.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have used red, green and blue Loctite and no leaks!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

On the advice of my engine builder I used ptfe bearing pipe dope. This after trying, and failing, a couple different things with varying degrees of partial success. The pipe dope worked, was easy, and is made for sealing threads!

Since I had the manifolds in place I made a special tool to reach in and R&R the studs. Used a long 1/2" bolt and some 3/8" B7 all-thread to make it.

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Thom

Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite