I accidentally deleted a previous thread about this 1920 carb. That stinks!

Here is another question though that I was trying to add to that thread. Copied and pasted below.......

I may be soon going thru a Holley 1920 carb, Not sure where I am going to get the carb kit from, alot of choices and I have asked on-line about a Ethanol friendly kit without much response.

Before I go thru it Id like to read something that gives me a better idea of things I should be looking for as I am going thru the re-build process.

I have read alot on-line that for instance such items as the idle mixture screw being turned all the way in and all the way out just doesnt affect idle any longer due to something internally worn out ( I am guessing ) in the carb.

Evidently people overtighten the screw and mess up the seat. Evidently from what I have read this is pretty common and once it has happened the carb is junk.

Another good example would be the ( possible ) warped float cover I have an issue with now. From what I have read placing the cover on a flat piece of glass and gently trying to rock it back and forth is a way to determine if the cover is warped.

I have read a few somewhat vague posts on how to correct this issue but would like to read something more specific.

I would never have known this unless I stumbled upon a thread on-line that mentioned it.

What other potential problems might I be faced with?

I am pretty sure these kits do not come with any fix for some of these issues so why try and re-build a carb that may have issues that cannot be resolved.

How would one check for things while in the re-building process unless he were aware of the possible issues?

I am reading about some potential issues like mentioned above but a quick reference guide specific to these Chrysler 1 barrel carbs and 2 barrel BBDs would be nice to see.

A guide to re-building a common Holley 4 barrel is not going to do me much good I do not believe.


Having something like this ahead of time would really save people alot of headache.

Does anyone know of such a guide?

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley-1904_ep_320.html For warped bowl watch Mikes video.

Most kits do not have clean out plugs. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley- ... p_821.html

Does your ideal mixture screw respond now? Does it look ok or groved up end. Clouged idle tube? With a little micro amount of heat the idle tube will come right out of the metering block. Remove Aluminum expansion plug 5/16 Walker part no 85-53. Down in that hole is top of idle tube.Remove main jet,that little brass tube in that hole is bottom of idle tube. Turn metering block upside down soak with pb blaster and let sit for a while.Later use small screw driver in main jet hole as a pry bar ,pushing up very lightly on idle tube. While still holding screw driver with one hand use other hand to tap down top of metering block on solid surface. Most of the time idle tube will fall right out. If not use just a very little heat at top of metering block.

Thank-you for the information, you have been most helpful too me, I will get carb off when I get to that point and report back.

Right now I am still dealing with a title issue on the truck and so it sits until its transferred in my name.

Just playing around with it a bit and thinking ahead cause I am sure the title issue really isnt going to be a big issue.

EDIT: title issue is finally over, I am embarrassed to admit that I took possession of the truck without a title. Guy seemed very genuine, long story short it took about a week but he did come thru after I REALLY prodded him. Maybe he would still have come thru otherwise but whos to say.

I know better and it wont happen again. I did get the title tonight and so I am the rightful owner.

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/sho ... 0&format=0 In the middle of picture ,that small dark hole is adjustable idle air bleed.If you have that it would be helpful to get it freed up. What is your carb no? That hole is just behind and near top of fuel bowl.

I notice the carb is loose, it also has a real thin gasket between it and the manifold. I also notice there is no choke hooked up.

I am pretty sure its not original to the truck but hopefully these numbers will give a clue to what it was made to work on.

I found a 12R 5592-B That sounds more like the # Thanks

EDIT: Ok according to this thread that is not the correct number but I dont see any other #s

EDIT: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 7298c65688

No listing on mikes carb site, just my luck I get a one of a kind carb

I did not know about Mike's back when I ordered my kit from Oreilly's or I would have ordered from Mike's.
Here is the link to the kit for that carb on mikes site http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley- ... p_661.html
Look at aplication list. third row of carb numbers yours is listed there.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

3698347 is the mopar part number for your carb and will determine the year and settings for it if you had the factory parts catalog and manuals for it...since it has a bowl vent it most likely is in the 1971-1973 range depending on emissions package or the standard bowl vent in 1973.

I see it now, thanks for the info

Yes, I stand corrected again in that it looks like the correct/possibly original carb for the truck. Thanks