I've purchased an AussieSpeed Hurricane from a member on here, and it is in the two barrel variation. Exactly what i wanted. However, a new 350cfm Holley is a bit too much of a load for my wallet at the time.

So I've done some research, and here's where i could use some input.
Motorcraft/Autolite 2150/2100, are they any decent? they are considerably cheaper.
Also, are they rated in the same goofy manner holley rates their 2vs? I'm trying to decide if I'd want the 287 or 351 version.

One more quick thing, are there any other 2 barrels that would fit this intake and I have overlooked?

Thanks to all in advance

For the Autolites, you want the one with 1.08 on the side. Yes they are measured the same way as the Holleys.The power valves interchange, the jets do not. Parts are readily available on the net. They are a good carburetor, but they are not a performance carburetor.

How about Holley from 360 or 383. These are bigger than super six or 318 carbs.

Okay, a performance carb is somewhat what I'm looking for I guess. I wonder how hard it would be to get jets though...

And kesteb, you recommend the 1.08 (287) why that over the 1.21?

And I was also under the impression that the Holley from a 360, 383, etc. were the same pattern as our slant 6/318 BBD. Are these still refered to as BBDs?

Sorry for all the questions just when I think I'm starting to know, I learn otherwise lol

Also, it'd probably help if I mentioned the application earlier...
225 cast crank, 3.4" bore, just a hone, re-ring and bearing replacement. shaved .030 off the block and .020 off the head for a compression of 9.1:1
Pocket port, with a polish on the exhaust, and exhaust of either 2.25 or 2.5 (or 2" duals... still undecided on that one) and the aussiespeed 2v hurricane.

Also, built to be a 'better driver'. This means I would like more power, but also better fuel mileage (old setup got 18 at best, hoping for 23+ if I can)

There are two flavors of BBD, the 225/318 is the small guy, and the 360/383/400/413/440 has bigger bores and flange pattern (same as Holley 2210/2245 vs. the 2280)...

-D.Idiot

The Jeep guys love the Autolites and they recommend the 1.08 with there 258 engines. I have ran the 1.08s and found them to be an excellent carb. They are jetted to rich for a stock engine and #46 jets work good.

Putting a 1.21 on, would be like running a 500cfm Holley 2300. It would work, but it would not be optimum. Ford used the Autolites on everything from 2.8l v6s to 460 v8s. So there are a lot of variations available. AMC used them on all of there v8s and I prefer the AMC versions over Fords.

Okay, thank you for the clarification on size.

I've read, also, that the AMC version is preferred over the Ford. Could you clarify on why?

taking 50 thou off the head and deck wont get you 9.2:1

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I haven't used this manifold,but being a very long runner design and running a carb in a cooler climate I would be concerned about fuel atomisation,or lack of in a street driver,you may need a richer mixture to compensate,and that isn't helping your mileage goals. Some kind of plenum heat may help some.

Sandy, you are correct. My numbers were slightly off.
.140 deck height with 56cc chambers (take out the .050, makes it .090, standard felpro gasket, totals up to 9.13 (Wallace Racing calculator, if thats accurate) Correct me if I've missed something, as its quite possible I could have. .050 seemed light a light cut to me also.

SlantSteve, I'm planning on a plenum heat of some sorts. Whether I fabricate exhaust heat like the factory, water heat (Aussiespeed or some other), or I've even wondered if one could do some form of electrical heat (ala, oil pan heater?)

Oh, and also: does anyone know off the top of their head what the differences are between a Motorcraft 2150 and an Autolite 2100? I've read that the autolite came in many different venturi sizes, whilst the motorcraft came only in 1.08 & 1.21
Also, I'd read that the autolites were older and the motorcrafts were the newer rendition. I didn't know if this meant better improvements or made it a smog carb...

AMC used Torqueflite transmissions in the '70s. There version of the Autolite has a throttle linkage that can be used for the kick down linkage. The Ford ones don't, as there automatics were vacuum controlled. The AMC's also have 2 step power valves while the Fords only have a single step.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the autolite 2100/2150 carbs did not have a ported vacuum signal for vacuum advance. True?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The Motorcraft 2150s have ported vacuum, but all mine and other Autolite 2100s I have seen, have no provision for ported vacuum.

Sources for Autolite/Motorcraft info is Ed's Carburetor Forum. http://www.network54.com/Forum/88781/
and Classic Inlines
http://classicinlines.com/AutoliteCarbs.asp

Olaf

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Aspenized

10 years ago I wrote a whole series of threads on adapting the clifford hpak manifold for street use, this manifold has about 3-4" longer runners than the hurricane. Temps under the low 40's F make the setup very finicky or unuseable, typically you will get fuel puddling in the plenum, then an overrich condition on start up and a flood out. Exhaust heat was found to be the best "direct" solution for immediate heat if the engine started (condition gets even worse when it's freezing/snowing out). Reducing the plenum helps a bit

These manifolds are a large chunk of metal and take a lot of heat to make a difference in temperature, I have noted a 16-30 degree difference in surface temp between the carb location and the head with the long ram manifold, so a manifold heater would need to be plugged in at night like a block heater, but be useless in a parking lot after going shopping unless your battery could maintain the drain to keep it warm enough....Heating the intake air during warm up helps loads...

Of course all of this has to be figured out for summer month use as what works in winter is not desired when the ambient temp goes over 75 degrees...

-D.Idiot

D.I., I have read and studied many of your posts on making a H-Pak streetable, that's why I tossed in the exhaust heat option. The only downside i see to my aussiespeed vs your H-Pak is the aussiespeed plenum is alot bigger than I realized. That, and the mine being a 2v version, and with the orientation of it, I cant really divide the plenum.
Also, I came to the same conclusion as you about the electric heater for the intake. I'll go back and look them up and study them again.

I just heard (from a ford guy) that the Autolites werent the greatest of carbs, with a concern for the power valve being prone to troubles. He recommended the Holley, and it just so happens that his buddy was selling one... that was a 500cfm... well, it was only $300 dollars though. I know annular boosters can really make a difference, but did the Holley's come with them from the factory? The Autolite/Motorcraft does, doesnt it?

If it doesnt come with one, and one was to install one, this would improve the streetability of it, no? Could a person effectively supertune the 500 and get some decent effeciency? 20mpg, thats all I ask!

Also, thank you Sandy, for questioning my numbers. You were most certainly right. I remeasured today, and with a .030 cut on the deck, I'm still sitting .120 in the hole at the shallowest. Now I need to re-cc the heads and see if I cant rush the head to the shop and get some more shaved off before installation.

Or I may just throw my hands up and slap it together just to be done with it.