I am going to try and get a video posted to my youtube account but here recently I have noticed this noise coming from Toad. After popping the hood and listening, I have determined it to be coming from inside the valve cover, as the noise gets louder with the oil cap taken off....I look inside and see there is still oil coming through, I don't have an oil psi gauge installed due to the truck not having one from factory. I purchased one ofthe Oreilly ones and the adapter seems to be too small for my oil pump.... I am also assuming that the adapter for the line to the gauge goes in where the oil psi indicator for the light on the dash is where I am supposed to put this thing in at....correct me if I am mistaken....not afraid of being wrong.

However - back to the issue of the noise, I don't think it to be an oil problem and it seems to go away when the motor warms up. It happens right as the rpms are dropping if I rev the motor or am slowing down at a stop sign or red light. Kinda like a chain dragging on a tin roof noise or a bucket being hit with a spoon lol.....like a rowlrowlrowl noise. I have a new alternator as of last week on it as well and its not coming from the ps pump, perhaps water pump could be cause as well but -

I just rebuilt this motor last summer and have less than 4K on it. Could this be cam bearings? Faulty oil pump not getting correct psi to the top end? I am unsure so I figured I'd ask ya'll and wait til tomorrow when it's daylight to get a video for you to listen to if my camera will cooperate...

Just tryna get some advice of what I should be looking at/for......

Thanks

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

Roll it over by hand and adjust the valves.

You will be able to feel many things.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Did you put in a new timing chain when you rebuilt it?

Double check where the stock oil switch goes into the pump; see if there is an adapter in there already that the sender is threaded into.

Take off the fan belt(s) and see if it stops. And check the water pump bearing for looseness.

Is the motor original? Did you keep all the original hydraulic lifter valvetrain pieces?

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Remove the valve cover, and use a small diameter tube one end stuck in an ear the other near each push rod. You will quickly find the noise maker, and go from there.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

sandy in BC

Roll it over by hand and adjust the valves.
I am kinda new to this and may sound like a total numbskull, but do I have to adjust valves with hydraulic lifters?

You will be able to feel many things.
I can definitely hear it....ha



nm9stheham

Did you put in a new timing chain when you rebuilt it?
Absolutely.

Double check where the stock oil switch goes into the pump; see if there is an adapter in there already that the sender is threaded into.
I will try that, how much oil do you think you would lose doing a thing like that? If it's a lot I wanna try a plug to keep from dumping my freshly changed oil everywhere....

Take off the fan belt(s) and see if it stops. And check the water pump bearing for looseness.
I will try this and let you know how it works out. It's in the single digits right now and windy enough I could run a space heater on wind power....



Reed


Is the motor original?
Yes.

Did you keep all the original hydraulic lifter valvetrain pieces?
Yes everything is still hydraulic to my knowledge...I hope it is rather:shock:




wjajr
Supercharged


Remove the valve cover, and use a small diameter tube one end stuck in an ear the other near each push rod. You will quickly find the noise maker, and go from there.

Going back to what I asked sandy - Do you have to adjust the valves in a motor with hydraulic lifters? I have long suspected my valves arent quite right with one making an off noise of some kind....I'm not very good with valves is the problem, but I could learn to be!

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

Could be a faulty/collapsing hydro lifter? You replaced the alternator, so if it started making noise right after that then I would strongly suspect the alt was not rebuilt correctly and is making noise. Get a good oil pressure gauge on there and see what the oil pressure is.

Best of luck,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Definitely hope it's not a lifter....Also no the alternator is a new one from Oreilly's, this truck didn't come with an original alternator still on the motor I had to get a new one.

Also doubt that because of the way the noise sounds, like a pencil sharpener but lower pitch, which is why I am also worried it is the camshaft(which is new), though I haven't seen any metal shavings visible in my oil changing...though they could be in the filter, perhaps I should have checked that in hindsight...

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

If the noise is a constant growl like a pencil sharpener and not a periodic clacking or tapping noise, then it sounds like it is a bearing and not a lifter or valve. The most likely candidate for bearing noise is the alternator. Try running the engine with the alterntor belt removed and listen for the noise. If the noise goes away then you know the noise is coming from the alternator.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yes, if it a constant growling, then the alternator bearing sounds suspect. You can use a long wooden dowel, long screwdriver, or PVC tube as a 'sounder'; put one end on the alternator, and the other end tightly up to one ear and you will be able to hear the alternator's bearing sound. If it is a loud growl like you are hearing, then move the 'sounder' around to different points; you will be able to localize most any particular noise this way. Then remove the belt and run it to see if it goes away as said.

Water pump bearings occasionaly whirr when going bad too; if one is marginal to start with, and a belt is changed and/or tightened (like with an alternator change), it might just finish it off. Test the same way as above.

If you have power steering, the power steering pump will definitely growl when going bad or low on PS fluid.

A "new" or rebuilt alternator is not necessarily good. Parts store ones can be junk right out of the box. My money is on the alt. Fire up the engine so you can hear the noise, then stop the engine and pull the alt belt (and remove it away from the fan blades) and start the engine again to see if the noise is gone.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Definitely not the alternator, tested that. Perhaps it is the water pump, since I've been fiddling with the belt. I tried to take a video with my phone but the quality is horrible and I can't find my Gopro at the moment but I'll post a video when I do find it. I am aware the "new" alts can be junk I've bought one before and had it start squealing like crazy just on the drive home, had to turn around and get another the next morning. I just can't afford to lose the truck, with it being winter my 50cc moped is not an attractive commute option...

I will test water pump here in a bit to see how that sounds. Also, it might do me good to change power steering and water pumps just to know they're fresh. I've moved 4 times in two years and put the poor truck to the test pulling my camper around too....

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

just curious and to add one more thing to this post when I'm starting the truck it will pop off the first time I turn it over no matter how long its been sitting and then I'll pump the gas pedal 1 or 2 times before I crank it again because if I crank it without pumping the gas pedal it won't start at all however sometimes it just acts like its flooded out or something its like its not getting gas and I'll have to get out of the truck and pop the hood and get starting fluid and start the truck with starting fluid and then from then on it'll start and run fine and when are you know I can drive it up and down the road once warmed up it'll work fine and won't have this problem..... I'm just curious as to why would be so hard to start I mean I'm going to check the compression later this week and I guess I could replace the ballast resistor but I don't think it's the ballast resistor because I've researched and it doesn't only run when its on the start position it runs just fine once you crank is the key to returns to normal on position. the things I've done recently to try on tune up the truck after the rebuild was I replace the original Holly 1945 carburetor with a new remanufactured 1945 carburetor I'll replace the points and condenser z. Has the old 1971 distributor from a Dodge Dart on it still that might be the problem or of actually considered it could be compression but it's a brandd new head gasket and has about 5000 miles on it and I don't drive it real hard I don't dog it or anything so and it doesn't smoke or burning you all the plugs are clean when I change them so just curious..... sorry about the poor punctuation I'm posting this from my smartphone with the speech to text function

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.

If after letting it sit overnight or for a few days, it is possible that the needle/seat in the carb is letting fuel drain out of the carb. Ask me how I know.

Also most aftermarket gauges need a larger bushing to get it adapted to our oil pumps. Any auto parts will have it. You won't lose much oil when you are changing it.
No you do not

rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

so if it's the needle or the seat what do I do to remedy that problem

_________________
1984 D150 with a 225 .30 over, A904. Dash choke, points conversion, new carb, new camshaft, new lifters, new pistons, new oil pump, balanced crank.