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 Post subject: which two bolts?
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:15 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
The two bolts that go into the water jacket are the one right below the main inlet pipe and it's neighbor just below it, right?

Today there were like two drops of coolant, so it does seal when hot, and that's 3 drops less than last time it leaked, so it seems to be improving. I warmed it up again today, will recheck. Can't get it aligned today 'cause it's a holiday, but I'm itching to drive it on the highway.

brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 5:36 pm 
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Mine set all for about 4 months with only 125 miles or so after the rebuild, with an occasional start, and it has stopped leaking totally. So, just keep snugging the bolts and clamps and keep an eye on it; I think it will seal up OK for you.

The only other time I've had such leaks on a bunch of other engines is when I did not scrape the thermostat hose and heater hoes nipples clean and smooth from corrosion and rust.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 6:21 pm 
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If you say #1 is the closest (like < 1") away from the power steering mounting pad, and you count clockwise, it is #3 that goes to the jacket. Only one goes into the jacket.

Just to be sure, you can loosen it before you drain the coolant and water will come rushing out once the last thread comes out.


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 Post subject: ok
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 9:45 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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That's the one just under the main water inlet, yes.

I can't find any leaks at that one, it's on the right side, near where the power steering pad is, it seems to be wicking through the gasket. Although it has slowed considerably, I think you're right, it'll seal up eventually.

All the hoses are snug and the surfaces were very clean and smooth before putting on the hoses, there are no leaks at any hoses. If I tighten them more I might just cut through them with the clamps (or strip the clamps).

Brian

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 9:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Courtesy of DD:

http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/al ... ll-alm.jpg

brian

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 10:41 pm 
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If you know you didn't put any sealer on that bolt, I would drain it and do so. It could be traveling along the length of the gasket/cover and just dripping where it accumulates.

Your pump had 2 gaskets right, one on either side of the plate?


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 Post subject: 2 gaskets
PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2015 2:51 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Yes, it had two gaskets.

It doesn't appear to be leaking at that bolt though.

Also, today there were no drips after sitting overnight, so I think it's starting to seal up. I'll drive it a week and see where it is. If it's still leaking at all, I'll pull that bolt and seal it.

brian

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 Post subject: still there...
PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 10:13 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Well, it doesn't leak when I drive it, only when it sits for a day without driving. I'll do a closer examination this weekend, maybe 592 that bolt that goes into the water jacket.

brian

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 Post subject: leak revisited...
PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Well, it seems that I'm getting some from the weep hole and some apparently leaching/wicking from the gaskets on the side nearest the power steering mount pad. The bolt that goes into the water jacket shows no sign of leakage.

I guess I bought one of the cheapy remanufactured water pumps instead of a good one, like a GMB. Live and learn...

The good news is that the leak is very slow and when I drive it, it stops. I'll do the pump change next week...

If GMB is not what I think it is, somebody please recommend a good water pump.

thanks,

brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 4:13 am 
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I bought 2 GMB pumps in the last year or so and one had a 6 blade impeller and one had 8. Both the same part number. Both worked fine .

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Last edited by Rick Covalt on Sun May 31, 2015 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Thanks Rick
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 9:21 am 
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GMB pumps also advertise that they don't require any sealant. Did you say you didn't use any sealant, I forget?

thanks,

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:07 am 
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I always use a thin layer of silicone on mine. I don't see a down side to using it.

Rick

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 Post subject: silicone
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:10 am 
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Rick,

I always do that as well. I was curious because they advertise no sealant needed.

Has anyone experience with GMB water pumps with no added sealant and whether they leak or not?

thanks,

brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:55 am 
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I've done it both ways. As long as the block surface is dead flat and has 0 pits you can do without.

I just can't imagine it weeping through a very thin gasket like that. This isn't an 1/8" thick porous cork valve cover gasket. If the bolts are tight and no surfaces have pits, well.... maybe warped pump? Inspect/clean the block surface thoroughly when you change the pump.

I'm surprised you used no sealant on the bolt and it's not leaking. I guess I've just had bad luck the few times I forgot.

The UV dye stuff and a black light work well as it will indicate areas you never thought of looking at. Just wash everything down thoroughly first.


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 Post subject: thanks Pierre
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 12:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'll check the block surface carefully, but I'm pretty sure it was not pitted.

I've never seen a leak like this either, must be a warped pump body or something. It had the tell tale signs of being rebuilt many times, the heater hose connections had a lot of pitting (but it's not leaking there for sure).

I thought about using the fluorescent dye but I'm using Evans and I won't be replacing it anytime soon, so I don't want anything in my Evans. No matter, it's leaking and I can't seem to stop it, so next weekend is water pump swap.

brian

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