Does anyone know where i can buy a complete system that will convert my truck from carb to fuel injection. i want one that is identical to the edelbrock system where it does not have to be adjusted by a labtop. basically i am looking for plug and play. the truck is a daily driver so i do not wish to make it a hot rod just a real good on gas mileage daily driver.

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John Turner

does anyone have any experience with mother mopars jeep conversion?it would seem to be a likely canidate.similar engine size.

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there is only one...

Clifford has one, but it's kinda expensive.

I remember I've seen one setup that didn't requrie a laptop but I can't remember the brand name. It may of been haltech, or electromotive.... not sure. It provided a small keypad with display on it that you could adjust all parameters with, but this was meant only for small modifications, not setting the basemap. I recall that it explicitly recomended to use a laptop for inital settings and to get everything stable.

Other then clifford (www.cliffordperformance.com) I don't know of a setup thats bolt in (although I believe their setup will only be considerd bolt in if you have their 4 barrel manifold as well). There are plenty of people that make aftermarket kits based on GM parts. You can get by with one adapter but you would need to drill at least 4 holes in it.... Check out http://www.customefis.com/ and www.howellefi.com Howell sells a 2 barrel or 4 barrel holley to gm throttle body adapter, and then you can use a mr gasket adapter to take your single barrel or supersix intake to one of the above adapters.

The people that sell the GM systems "customize" the computer to your engine. What that means is they burn proms tailored to your engine. While this may get the engine running it will deffinately need some tuning, and the only way to tune it would be burning a new chip. So you can either call the people back up and they guess at what needs to be changed, or you can buy your own prom programmer and burn your own chips. But since you said you don't want to use a laptop to tune I don't think you want ot use a regular pc either.... I bought one of these "customized" kits, and after 6 chips my engine is running decently but still not very good.

If you want to go multiport then you will have to have custom machine work done to the manifold which will get pricy. Check out http://www.rancefi.com/ to get some ideas. Rance can provide a complete kit for you but it sure will not be cheap, you are looking at $2-3k with the machine work.

Just curious, why don't you want to use a laptop? There really is no plug and play, it will take some time to install, run the fuel lines and wiring, and patience to tune regardless of what kit you get. Don't let the appeal of the kits being complete illude you, they will still take quite a bit of work to get up and running.

Although this is the complete opposite of bolt in, this page may give you some good ideas and has good info to look at. Lots of people had success with this do it yourself computer, and would probably be the cheapest solution if you piece together the rest of the system from junkyard parts. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

www.sds-efi.com is the outfit that does not use a laptop. Al Toews has one of these on his EFI/blown '60 Dodge "Big Red."

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi,

what kind of gain could I expect with an EFI over a two barrel Carter on a stock marine 225.

Or If you had $1000 a stock 225 marine engine and a week to work on it, with the goal of increasing HP and keeping it reliable. What would you do?

It is in a workboat I am looking to buy. It was rebuilt in 2003. I am wondering if I could get another 20hp +- ? With the above limitations?

Any idea's would be great.

Thanks

Myles

Scroll down to see pics towards bottom of page
http://www.projectplato.com/cars/efi.html

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Cheers!
Al T

Hey

Sounds to me like you're about to getting into a mess... EFI on a slant can be cool but I think that will be the exact opposite for "reliable". You'll have to go thru lots of guesswork, trial and error.

$1000, as you said, it's a pretty cool amount of money for having some small modifications that will increase your HP.

basics are
1- get an electronic fuel pump and remove anything you can from the engine (like fan blades, etc) cut off anything that may be taking some power from the engine, and replace it with electronic devices. If you're running an electric fuel pump, a cool add-on is to have a oil pressure shiwtching device (so if engine stalls the pump won't be flooding all over around with gas... DANGEROUS! )
2- get a proper cam configuration
3- you can get some eddy or clifford performance intake manifold and a 500 or 750 cfm quadri carb....
well, that's my idea of keeping it simple and reliable... doesn't mean I ain't like EFI

me and dusteridiot are working on a bolt on fuel injection setup. look for it later this summer.

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e-mail me if you need a custom part for your car or engine made! machined or fabricated!
inthemorrow@hotmail.com

my advice is to run a GOOD carb.If everything is as it should be,what's the advantage???Save your money for more important things...just my opinion.....I have lots of friends that are always saying things like,"I'm gonna convert my 318 wideblock to injection",and I take it w a grain of salt. but heyman, if u can pull it off,mopar too ya!!!!!!

Myles,

Here's what I'd do with $1000 and a week.

First, I'd have to know what RPM range you want. Assuming 2000-5000, or maybe 2500-5000? Assuming you will use stock marine exh man.

-Offy 4bbl intake ($100-170 used)
-Holley 350 2bbl or 390 4bbl ($50-200) fabricate/relocate throttle linkage
-Comp 264 or Isky 264 cam ($180 w/lifters)
-stock type link-belt timing chain w/metal gears ($25)
-remove head and check deck height and chamber vol - mill for 9.5:1 or higher comp ($50)
-remove valves and blend ports - pocket porting job ($60-100 for die grinder and bits)
-valve job, guides?? ($150-300)
- gasket set ($55)

This will come in around $1k or less and should be fine to do in a week of work. Would need more info to give more specific recommendations.

BTW, the site for the EFI I mentioned is: www.sdsefi.com

Lou out

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for the info.

What do you think about this set up
www.prolinefuel.com/dualslant.html

The reason I want the extra hp.
Now the boats does about 10mph. With a new reduction gear and propeller and an increase of 20-25hp. I can get 14 - 15 mph with out to much heart ache. This will cut a third off my commute or allow me to work 33% larger area in the same amount of time.

So their is a economic reason to spend the money. If I need to spend alot more to get the speed then a different boat starts making sense.

Thanks Dart270

What is your best guess as to hp gain.

I was looking at running 4000max rpm and cruise at 3200rpm.

75%-80% cruise for gas engines is pretty common in boats.

This was because of the factory 145hp@4000rpm rating.

So with that set up could I run 5000max? and 4200 cruise?

4200rpm at higher comp ratio for six hours at a shot and still expect good engine life?

It seems like the engine is over built for 145hp, but I do not know the engine that well. The stock comp ratio seems rather low.

The best guess hp and rpm are needed to figure the reduction gear and propeller. + or - 10% would be a good enough guess.

thanks

how about just using an older holley pro-jection 2-d system a good four barrel intake and a good cam.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2464638521

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2464167796

how about just using an older holley pro-jection 2-d system a good four barrel intake and a good cam.