Yes. I had a PDF snagged from a website, but I can't find it. It might have been a victim of a hard drive failure some years ago; I will keep looking.
Well, okeh, a slow-motion pounce...we are in context of unusual, special-interest Slant-6 parts, after all. .

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Make a pair of adapter plates and move on.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Dan, looking forward to the article of you can find it. The one you previously sent was with that Chrysler Africa Police package manifold.

Yes to the plate Slantzilla, assuming height isn't an issue. Backup plan to that would be adding material somehow. Maybe building up weld. Friend gave the idea to cut away some material in the corner with an end mill, cut same diameter circle out on a lathe, then weld it in. Super slick but mucho work.

That doesn't sound all that time consuming. Tell you what, if you can come up with a specific plan I offer you my machine shop capabilities to help you solve this. I have mill, lathe, bandsaw, TIG, etc.

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Pierre...I like your friends idea but might be more tempted to bolt and glue instead of welding and warping.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I wouldn't experiment with glue for this kind of manifold modification.
Aluminum doesn't warp as much as other metals. Anyway, there is going to be some machining required after a welding modification. That's a perfect opportunity to remedy any warping that might happen.

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

If you glue and screw you have the ability to mock it up with screws....bolt everything together and when you are happy with it ....disassemble and glue.

I think this method could easily be done at home with hand tools without risking the basic manifold.

Welding/maching might be fine for those who are so equipped but is risky and expensive for those of us without a machine shop.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I'd get some 1/2" aluminum plate from McMaster-Carr and make 2 flat plates to bolt on and seal with epoxy. I'd drill and countersink the plates so the bolts don't interfere with the mounting holes for the carbs.

For linkage either M-C or Speedway for some nice pieces to play with.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Exactly. I would orient the carbs so the barrels were in a line perpendicular to the engine. The throttle and kickdown linkage will be tricky. Basically build duplicate bellcrank mechanisms for each carb and then a center bellcrank that links tot he carb bellcranks. The center bellcrank is mounted roughly in the stock carb location and is pulled on by the throttle cable. That way you can keep stockish throttle and kickdown arrangements, but I recommend a cable style kickdown.

Lots of Heim joints and allthread and threaded sleeves will be needed.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Pierre, I think Slantzilla's suggestion sounds like the simplest way forward.
But, I know you are concerned about the height. If the overall height is a problem feel free to PM me about the weld modification. I'll be happy to do it, no charge.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Right, I'm thinking of another, which started out with the 5041 Offy intake. There's a chance I might have it on one of my old backup disks, but those are in deep storage far away. I'll dig 'em out next time I'm there.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The webers measured ~0.4" taller from base flange to air cleaner mounting surface vs a stock 1920. It's going to be a nail biter... the stock air cleaner is tall, maybe 4"ish ? You can get narrow ~2" air cleaner elements for the webers. Push comes to shove, an offset hoodscoop may be in order. That would catch some attention.... off the deep end I go.

Found some 1/2" aloooominum plate. The good stuff, not sticky gummy aluminum but the denser type. Should thread nicely. How to cut it? Well.. ideally would be a bandsaw but no access to one, not locally at least. Jigsaw? Worked for thinner lighter stuff... tried it... on this heavy dense stuff I would be done by the time someone finishes casting an aluminum head. I read that a carbide wood blade has no problem going through aluminum especially if ran slowly.

I remembered I had put a fancy freud diablo carbide tipped blade on my cordless circular 4.5" saw. It runs slower then your mains powered 7" variety. Oh why not, what have I got to loose? A blade at the most. Took about 1/16-1/8" off in every pass, and we end up with this.

I have used a standard table saw with carbide tipped blades to cut aluminum. Set the rip fence and away you go.

+1
Wood sawing equipment usually works fine on aluminum.
It will help a lot to use some cutting lubricant to keep the aluminum from building up on the saw teeth. WD40 works great for that.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

I did have some spray lube handy. It didn't do much for the jig saw. I used it on the circular saw.

Table saw eh... I could see that working if things didn't heat up. Table saw blades are a bunch more expensive then these small circular saw blades. I had to cut in both directions. Dealing with small pieces like that on a table saw would be tricky.

Now to clean off the drill press table and see how I can bolt this thing down.