We are rebuilding a 225 out of a 64 dodge 330. The engine was running when removed, however #5 cylinder ate a piece of something judging by the spark plug, and compression was only around 100PSi and had 80% leak down on that that cylinder. All the others were around 50-60% leak down and 130-140 psi. The engine has good oil pressure also which leads to my first question.

The engine is equipped with the original 6 bolt oil pump with the 2 kidney shaped bumps on the cover. The engine maintained 40-60 psi oil pressure consistently. I am planning to install a better camshaft and have a line on a rv10 (brand new) or I may send the stock cam to Oregon cams for some work.

Would running the original oil pump be advisable on the new Erson RV10 cam? I am aware that keeping the oil pump on the stock cam is the best choice assuming the drive gears are in good shape.

Next question: What would be a good valve spring to use with the rv10 Camshaft? I have read that the VS150 sealed power is a good choice for a mild cam. Would the rv10 profile need more spring?

We will also be installing new valves. Would hardened seats be advisable? We will likely use Engnbldr stainless valves. do the better stainless valves even need a hardened seat?

The car is mainly a highway cruiser and is equipped with a ofenhauser intake with a 2 barrel weber carb. It has headers and true dual exhaust with a xpipe crossover. It is a 3 speed column shift manual with strock gearing

Dynamic compression will be addressed with deck and/or head milling. The rv10 cam seems like it will need at least 9:1 static compression to achieve 8:1 dynamic. It may even need 9.25:1 to achieve that. These numbers were based off the stock rod length, .030" overbore and intake valve closing at 55*ABDC. Do these numbers sound about right?

Any input on the build would be welcome [/list]

Oregon will regrind your original core, then it will match your op gear.

On the valves, installing hardened seats is a crap shoot, especially if you are installing bigger valves. Personally I would get a later head with induction hardened seats to start with.

That being said, I have had 2 heads done with bigger valves and not had seats done on either one. I have not sunk a valve yet.

Sounds like a fun car.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Correct me if I'm wrong. When cutting the seats for oversized valves, doesn't that remove the hardening? I didn't think the hardening was very deep.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes it does, some of the peanut plug heads it's a little deeper, but not regularly. If I feel I might leanout the engine dialing out the carb and timing, I get new seats...this works on the late heads that have some meat behind there, but it looks from previous posts that some droll tube heads don't have enough meat and people have had problems with hitting water or having the insert fall out.

The engine is on its way to the machine shop now. If the head checks out good I think we may just keep stock sized valves to retain the factory hardening as much as possible.

As long as everything checks good on the block and head the Rv10 Camshaft is probably going in. What valve springs are recommended? The car is purely a street car and will not likely ever see more than 4500ish RPMs.

Should I be concerned running the original oil pump on a new Erson cam?

I contacted the guys at Oregon cams and discussed briefly what we were doing. They seemed knowledgeable, but were unable to decisively say what grind would be best. Any thoughts or recommendations on the cam grinding would be great. We are still leaving this as an option but it would require more running around.

I have heard yes and no on grinding taking out the hardening. All I know is I have never beat out a seat anyway.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Inspect the oil pump drive gear on the new cam carefully for any burrs or other surface defects and slather it in assembly lube. Erson had been doing better on their gears than Comp.

When the leakdown test was done on #5 was it obvious where the leakage was occurring? It may be that you have a slightly bent valve and that a replacement valve and valve job is all this engine needs.

New 318 valve springs are fine for that cam and planned usage. VS510 is what I come up with and VS150 also looks to have wide use in Chrysler engines.

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Joshua

Leakage was very evident through the valve cover breather... maybe a piston lost a chunk... the valves seemed to seal as well as the other cylinders , and once we straigtened the crushed spark plug electrode it had enough compression to run way better than it did on 5 cyilnders LOL

I have found a NOS mopar oil pump P/N 2463986. I only has 5 bolt holes, but the mounting pad is there for the 6th. It does have some "shelf " wear but it looks like it was stored in a dry place. This would probably be a better option than the new china stuff?

I would of course save the original cam and oil pump for future endeavors

I would be rather happy to find an NOS oil pump! Should have a good gear.

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Joshua