Here's the rub....
If you are not carb savvy and just want set and forget, you will be looking at the Edelbrock; AFB if you want to set the mechanical secondaries, or the AVS if you want the vacuum response... they can be tuned well up to a certain point... (Josh did a good job on the essentials)
Holley is for a person that has a good understanding of carburator function, is looking to dial the tuning in better (but they don't have as many items to tune in as a weber though...).
Overall, if you are looking for a naturally aspirated build, and for best compromise between mpg and power are the Holley 390 or the Edelbrock 500 are the choices here.
If it is strictly a track car then Holley 450 or 600 are fine (or 570 in some flavors), or the Edelbrock in 500 or 600 are good choices too, depending on what the build is...(a 600 on an 8.4:1 stock build is just not going to work so well...)
I can tell you on the holley side that out of the box, it's great for a V-8, but needs some rejetting, change the accelerator cam, change some of the base settings, and the power valve to put it on the 6 cylinder...(mostly because of the lack of 100 cubes...)
If you get a Holley at a swap meet and it was made before 1992 your will need to install a backfire protection valve, as they didn't make carbs with them up to that time, and one backfire without it will wipe out the power valve membrane and cause a nice rich leak. So that scores one back for the Edelbrock fans...but is easily remedied by a $8 kit and 15 seconds with a cordless drill and pump pliers duringyour carb rebuild...)
Having run a few different Holleys and a few different levels of slant builds:...on a mild engine the 390 is great, the 450 is too big (you will get all the power of the 390 and the gas mileage of a stock mopar 360 in a truck...)...
On a hi-po engine the 390 can still be used, but will be restrictive...so you will lose some power, but when tuned right, it will give you good mpg...
The 450, and 600 will give a lot less mpg, but if tuned for the power level they will give you the top power the engine could make.
(we should also assume that you have dialed in a good timing curve to support the style of build or driving you intend).
Going back to other comments....two barrels are simple, but they only flow X amount, the advantage on the 4 barrel is the primaries are usually smaller, so on the daily driver you will be able to save some gas sipping out of the smaller primaries...and only use the secondaries when passing aggressively, racing, or trying to be James Bond... As stated in many cases the primaries on the 4 barrel are smaller than the bores on the relatively equivalent 2 barrel (i.e comparing the Holley 350 vs. the Holley 390, and the 500 vs. the 600/625/650)
When tuning the primaries you can in most cases lock out the secondaries so you only run those for tuning....one item to note especially on holley is that you will save gas if you just turn the 4 barrel carb into a 2 barrel carb...especially if you have a lead foot...(if you added a quick change secondary spring pod during your rebuild...changing the spring to block will effectively lock out the secondaries on the daily driver engine and lighter hi-po builds.. and with the use of a phillips screw driver you can change it back if you need the other 2 barrels)
This is essentially true if you are one of those guys that has to tip into the secondaries to show Mr.Honda what you can do out of the driveway, and light to light... but when you look at it from the off pedal and idle perspective...the 4 barrel still has to have all 4 plates indexed to get the correct air into the manifold when not in the mains, and you have both primary and secondary idle circuits that still need gas, vs. the 2 barrel that just has one circuit to feed... so on the low end of the rpm scale not much savings there.
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