I would like to break in the cam in our rebuilt slant before installing it into Aaron's "Dartster." At the same time, we could check the radiator for leaks and adjust the valve lash. Has anyone built a test stand you can show pics of?

I have an extra K-frame and 904 tranny. I thought maybe I could build a framework to support them and hook everything up like they would be inside the engine bay. I don't know of any other way to start the engine, unless I use the tranny/torque convertor/drive plate/starter.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Other than the cam, the break-in has to be under load - no practical way to do this on a stand.

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panic,
That's really what I meant. It's corrected above.

Thanks,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

You probably could use a K-frame as a basis for such a stand, but it seems to me that it's less time consuming to just go ahead and install it in the car and have it be done with, instead of doing everything twice.

The guy next to my shop has one the fits big and small block
Chevys. He used a shopping cart frame! It's great for breaking in the cam and making sure there are no leaks before installing in a car.
I have given some thought to making one to fit a slant6 and a BB Mopar.
A V8 motor doesn't need a very big base but I think a slant6 (or any inline motor) will require something wider. The V8's 90* bank will cancel some of the torquing of the motor, an inline motor will try and do flips when you quick rev it.

Cecil

Cecil with some wide legs you should be able to take care of that. My engine dolly has removable legs, that would be ideal for a break in stand.

This idea may be a bit extreme... but how about buying a junk rusted out cheap car, the ones you see going for $100-200? You can remove the entire front, grill valence etc, anything that gets in the way of easily installing the engine. You could just slide it in from the front, and use this as your test station? If you have the room this may be easier and cheaper depending on what you can find.

Loghead,
I, too, am a proponent of doing things only once. However, the rebuilt slant has been hanging on a stand for about eight months, and we are a few more months away from being ready to paint the Sport. Since this was our first time to do major work on an engine, and my son and I are spending soooo much attention to the finishing details, we would feel a lot better if we could get some of the dirty work out of the way, before installing the engine. I understand that setting the valve lash can be messy, and the last thing I want is to pull the radiator again to fix a leak. To be honest, it really kills my back to do a lot of lengthy bending over, so setting the timing, carb adjustments, etc. will be easier for me than leaning over a fender. I admit the K-frame might be a little over-kill, so we probably will simplify the test stand framing.

First, I need to learn to weld.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I think youre overcomplicating things.

As said earlier, to properly run-in an engine it must be placed under load. To do this on a stand, you would have to use an automatic transmission with a large oil cooler, and a driveline brake. You still would not be able to run it in without overheating the brake, and it would take forever as you would have to stop frequently to cool the trans and brake.

I would suggest making a harness you could hook onto your engine crane that would support your upper body if you have back problems. A spare rocker cover with the top cut off it will catch any oil spills during a running lash adjustment, and any rad shop can pressure test a radiator off the car. You can always leave the hood off until youre happy with how the engine runs. Even if it has already been run-in, you will probably find yourself under the hood tweaking things well after the first hundred miles.

It sounds like a fun project, but it's not something I would do, even with a bad back. Between cost, planning, designing a reliable form of resistance, and where to put the thing after it's served its purpose, I'd rather buy a five point construction worker's harness from the local safety store for $300 and hook it to my cherry picker. I worked at a shop once that had an electric 5 ton overhead hoist and one of the guys hooked his harness to the main line and took a ride on it holding the pendant. The boss was gone, of course

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.