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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 7:09 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3840
Location: Indianapolis
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interesting, if that configuration was used without a side support, it should be fine,, just looks odd seeing that starter hsg setting by itself.

I am thinking that with a dial indiactor that has a pointer that retains readings and a good magnetic mount,, you could set up a test to see if that area of the housing is flexing under load...


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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
just looks odd seeing that starter setting by itself.
I actually need to dig through my solvent tank stuff and find the clover plate for it...it kind of looks like the V-8, low mount starter plate where the cover acts as the bellhousing front cover and starter cover... Just took a little shortcut there, in case I have to yard it back out.
Quote:
I am thinking that with a dial indiactor that has a pointer that retains readings and a good magnetic mount,, you could set up a test to see if that area of the housing is flexing under load...
I might set that up before I install the manifolds and not get a good look or mounting point...then dance on the rear of the engine to check flex... :lol:

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Frustrating...
PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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OK...It looks like this "combination" will require a special or modded starter as there are two flywheel types...the ones that got the large flywheel (172 tooth count), used the old style direct drive starter....that starter uses a smaller .94" OD 9 tooth/12 pitch gear to drive the flywheel...the SB flywheel would use the 143 tooth flywheel and the standard 10 tooth/10 pitch found on the standard mopar reduction gear starters and mini-starters...

I investigated using an aftermarket starter built for the early hemi since they used a similar setup with the 172 tooth flywheel...the starter fits fine, but the gear did not have a long enough throw to engage the flywheel teeth...

Oddly...after pulling the nose cone off that starter I was able to remove the 9 tooth gear and it has the same spline count as the gear shaft on the Denso mini-starter...After pulling apart a mini-starter I was able to install the gear and it engages the flywheel and spins the engine over without hesitation, but sounds like a 'ford' starter doing it...

Investigation showed that the fit is a bit tight and the gear is not disengaging the flywheel after the ignition is disengaged....

Tomorrow I'll see about shimming the starter a little bit away from the ring gear and see if that frees up the gear and plunger... If that works then that will provide a good lightweight HP starter for the direct drive truck and 60-61 A-body guys...

More to come-

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Update...
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2016 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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The car is back to the way things were when I started this conversion...

Somethings I figured out in the last couple of days....

The reason mopar used the adapter plate with the LA bellhousing, actually gets the extra space the starter needs so the nose does not contact the steering link...on this one the only starter that will work is the denso late model (short motor) starter...

I am also grateful that Denso starters are modular... The setup works with the 10 tooth standard LA Denso, but the starter gear tends to mesh then get stuck on the ring gear and not release... I pulled apart a LA starter and a late model mini-van starter with an 11 tooth gear that is slightly smaller in outside diameter... after swapping the two assemblies, the starter no longer gets caught by the ring gear and releases...

Am working on figuring out the exhaust routing, since the low mount starter and clutch linkage takes up the hole that is used by the stock pipe and headers....the only spot left is the hole in the K member where the sway bar mounts will go...so I will be going dual dutra duals to 2" outlets to a 3" single then figuring things out from there...

More to come....(need to find a good webhosting service so I can get my pictures back up and post new ones).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2016 7:38 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
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Holy Thrash Slantman!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2016 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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I have a couple other tweaks, but it's coming together....

I had to laugh a little.... I never thought you could crowd a slant six engine bay with non emissions hardware... but with this conversion, the routing of the duals, and going to a driver's side alternator and using a hyperpak pretty much takes up that whole area...LOL....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 4:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17167
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Cool, will be fun to see it all come together.

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: Lol...
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 7:13 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
Posts: 2353
Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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Quote:
I have a couple other tweaks, but it's coming together....

I had to laugh a little.... I never thought you could crowd a slant six engine bay with non emissions hardware... but with this conversion, the routing of the duals, and going to a driver's side alternator and using a hyperpak pretty much takes up that whole area...LOL....
You will be set up great to go fast and turn left!

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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