Pretty sure I felt that one coming on!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Love that alternator mounting setup. Where did you get the alternator? I have seen a few 'one wire' mini alternators on e-bay for cheap. Those are listed as around 6 lbs, and 35-70+ amp output.
I weighed the one I got from an 86 Dodge truck and it looks similar but weighs in at 11 lbs (a standard dual-field Mopar one weighs in at 13lbs).

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Yes good luck with the surgery.

Those are easy to tune if you actually look at the af gauge.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Anything is easy to tune with an A/F gauge.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Knee surgery went fine! 2 weeks off work. That's fine with me. That will give me time to rest up for Bristol!

Greg alludes to the fact that I can make multiple runs and never look at the gauge. I get in a zone when racing. It's called the Twilight Zone!

I do need to get one for in my truck too.

Rick


Alternator was from E-Bay, 40 0r 45 Amps.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Glad to hear the surgery went well, Rick.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well it has been several months since my new race engine has been in the news! But I spoke to Clint at the engine shop Friday and they have made some progress. My engines bottom end is assembled and all bearing clearances were good. They install one piston to check deck and valve to piston clearance. My pistons were .020 out of the hole (Due to straightening the deck to the crank centerline) The intake valve pockets also need to be opened about .080, so while they are out to open the pockets they will trim .020 off the top to give me a zero deck. Exhaust pockets were fine as is. I had plenty of depth in the valve pockets with the 1.5 rockers, even with a .566 lift cam. Calculated CR right now with zero deck is 10.25, and the head will be planed to get 11.5-11.8 CR. So the light is at the end of the tunnel on my engine. Hopefully there is no train coming!:lol:

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick, you have my sympathy. Machine shop here has had my dang head for almost 10 weeks now, and I still don't have it.
I just don't understand sometimes.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Sounds like good progress and I like the plans all around. 12s are in your future...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have my helmet all polished up and ready to go.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Did they allow for the additional head milling when figuring the valve notch depth?

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Yes they did. And I had over .200 clearance if I recall what they told me correctly.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The board is seeming a little slow of late so I thought I'd ramble a bit about something!

When I dropped my race engine off they did a sonic check on the block, mainly because they don't know slants and how heavy the block is. But they were amazed at how thick the bores were. My block can be easily bored to +.130 and maybe to +.150 like the Slantkota engine. Can't remember the thinnest measurement but I think it was .190 thick. This may allow for a bigger, big bore down the road!

Engine is supposed to be done and ready to pick up. I will find out for sure tomorrow. If it is( and it should be, because all they had to do was the final cut on the head) I will go pick it up on Thursday. It will be nice to have it sitting in my garage and then I can start working on the pan mods and get my windage tray installed. More to come soon.

Also after a lot of trips down the track and quite a few red lights the Valiant finally ended up in the winners circle.


I made 11 runs on Friday evening with just a single -.012 red light. My average reaction time for the 11 runs was a .051. The spread on all 11 runs at the 60' was .042, and for the whole run it was .062. My best R/T was a .008 in the final when the car ran a 9.692 on a 9.680 dial. I began to stage the way that Rodney Hargis told me told me he does. So thanks to one of the great foot brake racers for helping me to get a little better. You can't win if you red light in the first round.

Real question is this. How much lower should a decent footbraker get on his R/T. I'm not talking about the big boy racers who are cutting .00X lights every round. None of us are in their league and I certainly never will be. But can I realisticly be looking for .030 lights? .020? What should I be shooting for.

Of course all of this will probably change with the new motor and 4.56 gears. But it will be fun to find out.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Excellent progress and results, Rick! Looking forward to seeing and hearing the new motor run. I am not surprised about the cyl wall thickness - nice. Congrats again about the race win too.

When I was practicing and had a good consistent car to run, I would be in the 0.00 to 0.07 range of reaction time with a lot of 0.02-0.04s. Been a while... You are doing very well! I have seen good footbrakers hover around 0.00 to 0.03 when in practice. To me, once you have a consistent vehicle, then repetition is the next thing. I am not sure about a technique to practice except that you need to make yourself consistent, then adjust the stall RPM or other parts of the staging to make changes or improvements to RT.

See you at M-D if not before!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988