This is Ron Parker I moved from another subject becaus it was the wrong thread. The 69 Dart had a professional install aluninum floor pans from the firewall back thru the trunck pan, He also tied the framerails together by welding them together. The car is also tied three times across from the drive shaft loop and two more in the rear. We also installed a Jegs 8 point roll cage and that tied the car together again. The problem is the car leaves the line and spins the tires about 40 feet out and again in second gear change. We run M/T 9 inch by 28.00 Drag Slicks that are in good shape. I could put wider slicks on bot i have a spacing problem. The car has a 67 B body 8 3/4 rearend with a spool.
I would like some advise on maybe how to solve the problem. Im Commited to seven races this season and the gas prices who knows i would like to solve the problem as cheap as possiale Thanks Ron Parker

Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

I have no idea but I hope you get it sorted out in due time. Youre the kind of guy we cant help but cheer for. I'm behind you, big guy. Keep the smilies coming and GOOD LUCK

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Ron you know I have had my problems with spinning also and I couldnt fix it without wider tires and some other things such as tubbing to make extra room for the extra rubber. Then I think about Barry Harrison and his Valiant hooking like glue with nine inch wide tires. That proves it can be done with the kind of power your engine is making. I would give Barry a call because we know he has basically your setup working for him. I do know spring stiffness(i.e.Super Stock), correct pinion angle(5-6degrees), rear shackle angle(45or more degrees), and pinion snubber(near 1/2"gap) all have to be working properly together to make it hook. Getting that extra power to the ground sure makes it more interesting don't it Ron? I know you will get it fixed. See you soon.
RH

If all else fails, try raising the front of the spring. (raise the "instant center")
Doing this tends to increase the load on the tires, you get a harder "hit" and more bite when the front spring eye is moved higher.
It is pretty easy to remove the front spring hinger and drill a new hole right above the current one. Go as high up as the material on the hanger will allow.

You will need to re-check your pinion angle if you make this change.
DD

Make sure the shocks are long enough and not topping out. If they run out of upward travel during body rise, they will jerk the tire off the track.
The body should rise about 3" at the rear tire well. If you need more, take some or all of the rear spring clamps off the rear segment. Also make sure the front segment of the spring is clamped tight. Make sure the snubber is adjusted right when doing this. If the rise is too much, put some adjustable clamps back on the rear segment. They can then be slid forward for more rise, rearward for less. They can also be staggered if the car is launching left or right a little.
The snubber doesn't really help plant the tire, it is more of a safety device to keep the rear housing from wrapping up too much and breaking the U-joint when there is not enough pinion angle. There are a lot of SS spring cars out there running in the 10s with enough pinion angle, 7*-8* on a fast car, and not using a snubber. Only use as much pinion angle as you need because the greater the angle, the more power it takes to turn it. On a 12 second non-transbrake car, 5* should be enough rear housing 'Slanted Attitude'.

Cecil

I'll second what Doc and Cecil said. While i'm not big into the straight lines, puttin' down the power all over the track is important too.
At any rate, custom spring hangars to adjust your front spring eye would be a a great start. Condran's book (Performance Handling for Classic Mopars) has a diagram on how to do it with box tube and bolts-- very simple design. I could even make you a pair and send them out to you by midweek if you like.
Also, do check your shock height or the exended length. Most A-body guys i know run longer C-body units out back to prevent topping out and lifting the tires off the ground.
Finally, if you're allowed to use torque devices in your class you could consider a decoupled torque link or a tied torque bar.
Either way, good luck homey!

-JYH
Still likes the straight lines-- the ones between the turns!

Ron, what are you running for traction devices? If you want to spend the best $300 you ever spent, put Cal-Tracs on it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Cal-Tracs are the way to go if you don't want to step all the way up to ladder bars. If you do, spend some of the 'moonshine budget' money and get the monoleaf springs and Rancho9000 shocks that Calvert offers.
You'll end up with an easily adjustable rear suspension. The bars have 2 IC locations, preload can be added or removed for more or less 'hit', staggered preload can be used if car is launching left/right, and the shocks have 9 adjustable positions which can also be stagger adjusted if needed.
The ease of adjustments are nice if you go back and forth using NO2. Not as much pinion angle is needed with Cal-Tracs which will free up a little HP. The whole set up with the mono leaf springs weighs less the a SS spring set up. The whole package will be around $650, maybe a little more but cheaper than ladder bars and can be installed in an hour.

Cecil

Does turning the front spring mount upside down and switching them left to right work on A-bodies? I've heard of this being done on B-bodies to raise the IC, and there is little work and no money involved.

Thanks everbody i have not heard of the Cal Tracs but will look into that Ole Bagel Buddy Possom Parker












Hell Hath No Wrath Than A Possum Scorned

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

For the DIYer http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

Ron,

If you want to raise your front spring eyes, you can do it for $55...

http://www.magnumhp.com/drivesusp.php

These are made by my buddy Andy Finkbeiner at www.arengineering.com. Good stuff.

Good luck, buddy, and we'll see you in Farmington,

Lou

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