Is anyone running a AFR gauge, with long tube headers? Where should the sensor be located for the best results? I'm wondering about the distance from the port, if the sensor is in the collector. Would a heated sensor be necessary? Also if located in the collector, would the reading be skewed, if using open exhaust?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I think you probably need 2-3 ft of pipe after the sensor (and no leaks at collector or anywhere else) to get good readings. I would put it in the collector and yes it would be better to have it heated. I have switched entirely to wideband, but narrowband works OK too for more coarse tuning. I have a couple of NB gauges if you need one (free). For boost, it really helps more to have WB so you can get in the 11 -11.5:1 range.

Cheers,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hey Charlie,
I have a wide band Bosch AF sensor in the collector on the hooker long tube headers mounted on the 68 Barracuda.
Initially I did not have extensions on the collector and the AF reading was really erratic at idle. Extensions about 18 inches in length fixed that.
Also, the instructions with the heated Bosch sensor that I installed recommended a minimum number of degrees, 20 IIRC, above horizontal, to prevent condensation from puddling in the sensor. The space between the car floor and the collector is limited with my A body, take a good look prior to welding on the bung.
Also remember, leaded fuels are said to shorten the life of the AF sensor, but for a race only car that may not be significant.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Ditto...

I ran Clifford long tube headers on the Hpak duster and had the bung welded in the reducer/collector that bolted to the end of the header...
I pitched the bung upward a couple degrees from 90 (and because these sit closes side by side on the outlets they had to be facing drivers door
and passenger door respectively, and the ends were close to the floor pans)... They worked fine to dial in the 11:1 engine on 92 octane... but the
bosch NB sensors gave up the ship once I ran a full tank of VP 108 leaded through it (wanted to see if I could get one monitoring run at test and tune
to make sure it all was close... it did fall off the rich side then was a disco after that, then just read a random LED from there on out)... unless I had a
large bank account I would not run a WB long term on leaded (there are some 98-100 octane O2 sensor safe fuels, if going that high of compression or
the need to supress knock... but you'd pay $$$ for it in pails or a drum, compared to what leaded your local vendor had on hand....)... most likely that
will be the route I have to go on this next engine for high compression and NA EFI.

All widebands are heated.

I'd put it in the collector.

Also, you're not supposed to be too close to the exhaust valve; and the sensor is NOT to be on the bottom of the pipe.

Find the innovate installation instructions online for how you're supposed to mount it and usage cautions.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I did do the read of the instructions, and even called Inovative. They were very helpfull. What brand seems to be the best bang for the buck? Inovative, AEM, or other?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

AEM all the way. Over the years, I have heard tons of complaints about failing sensors and such with Innovate. I have had 4 AEM sensors/gauges on different cars and they have all worked perfectly. I have only had ONE sensor fail, and that was after 20-30k street miles (with turbo) and plenty of mixed in leaded race gas (about 50/50 at track, premium pump on street) but never pure race gas. I have used both of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-0300

The latter is smaller and lighter, and I cannot see any downside. I have a few of the X-series gauges and they have worked well. Not sure why the 4110 is more expensive??

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I also have AEM’s in both the 83 D150 and the 68 Barracuda, no issues with either.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks for the info.I'll see about getting the AEM in a month or so. Got to get my Edge hybrid converter, first.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Just bit the bullet and ordered the AEM 30-0300, one extra weld on bung, couple of plugs, and a clamp on bung. Going to install it on my 88 D-150 first, with the clamp on bung, and try to get the fuel mileage better. Then swap it to the race car. Summit priced matched amazon at $159 and free shipping for the 30-0300.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

That's good information Charlie. Thank you.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

That is a killer deal.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Cheap bungs and plugs:

Use Dorman 65220 oil pan plug (18mm x 1.5 thread, 19mm hex head) for a plug

Use a 18mmx 1.5 thread nut for a bung

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Actually, Summit beat Amazon by $5.00

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks for the plug and bung info, Ed!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988