Per a different thread, I removed all the smog equipment on my 6, and discovered a near dead cylinder. After opening up the top end, I discovered a scuffed cylinder and perhaps and bad head gasket. Not having the cash to rebuild the motor, I replaced all the gaskets, put it back together, and checked valve lash. Now, somehow, it seems like it has even less power than before, and sounds even worse. The Remflex gasket I bought on Amazon cam already cracked, and they refused to replace it, so I had to go with the felpro one in the gasket kit. I thought perhaps the noise is from leaks on the manifold, but I’m not sure...I know you can’t torque them down too hard and I’m orobably already past that point I’m seeing if tightening it down more would help (it didn’t). I’m going to redo the torque and possibly pay out for another Remflex gasket. I’m not expecting to get V8 power out of a single barrel, but I was hoping for a bit better than it was before. I realize the engine is pretty much done for, but I’d like to drag it out as long as possible and have a little fun driving it in the mean time. I have posted a video below showing how it sounds. It doesn’t vibrate the whole car like it used to, so that’s a plus!


https://youtu.be/IhAtEZSURlE

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IhAtEZSURlE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Have you checked that all your spark plug wires are good? When you installed the manifolds did you loosen the three bolts around the carb that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds together?

With the motor running, pull one plug wire at a time from the distributor cap and find out which cylinder is not firing or is running poorly. Focus on the cylinder where RPM does not drop when you pull the plug wire.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That's not what it looks like in the linked video. Exactly what-all did you remove? It's completely possible and fairly likely you created some problems (vacuum leaks, vacuum hoses going somewhere they shouldn't, ports capped that shouldn't be) when you "removed all the smog equipment".

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I removed the smog pump and the hoses all the way back to the back of the head and crimped off the metal tubing where it attaches at the back. I also removed the relay that it attached to that was mounted on top of the valve cover. I have (allegedly) attached a photo to this message, let’s see if it posts. It shows all I removed.

https://ibb.co/iL2v66

if you have leaks at the exhaust to head junction, you most likely have vacuum leaks at the intake to head junction as they share the same gasket and mounting bolts.

one way to determine leaks in a noisy environment is to get a couple feet length of heater hose, put a funnel on on end and place that to your ear, with the engine running move the free end of the hose directly on the manifold gasket area, if you have leaks you will hear it through the funnel.

another way to find exhaust leaks is to sprinkle a fine powder (maybe baking flour) on the tops and get what you can to cling to the sides of the intake / exhaust flanges, have some one start the motor, if you get a plume of powder blown into the air, you have a leaky manifold gasket.
If you can determine where the powder is dislodged from, that is the leak(s).

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Why yes I did....and murphy’s Law, the one that goes between intake ports 3&4 snapped due to corrosion....sigh. Looks like I’m dismantling the whole intake/exhaust setup and am in for some bloody knuckles getting that rusted in chunk of bolt removed.

The manifold system on the Slants has got to be the single fubar design on the whole motor. Hard to install AND remove, so prone to cracks, the whole floor jet, heat pocket thing, poor breathing compared to aftermarket designs that were available for half the run of the design, blocking off easy replacement of freeze plugs, etc etc......ranting I know....

Yeah, the outboard two bolts by where the EGR mounts and the single inboard bolt/nut (depending on the year) right next to the carb. Those bolts needs to be loosened when the manifolds are removed and reinstalled to ensure all mating surfaces seal properly.


Yes, if you broke that bolt it needs to be repaired.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.