On a side note: In 1984, the national speed limit was 55 mph. A vehical from that era was tuned/geared for 55 mph. A slant six powered truck was a base model and not as capable as a V8 truck. Comparing the power/drivabilty to a modern car is apples to oranges.

Your truck can be upgraded to a more modern power level and capability. This will take some work and mechanical knowledge. You will have to decide if that is what you want to do.

Most of us on this forum understand this and enjoy modifying our old machines for better performance. I hope you will join us with your project and learn about older vehicles. Bottom line is that you have to understand that vehicles from the past are much different than modern vehicles.

There will be plenty of support on this forum if you need it. Don't get discouraged.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

My slant 6 should be able to pull a trailer with a lean mower weedeater edger etc shouldn't it, OK its not the strongest truck in the world but it should pull 2000 pounds relativly easy right, and yes I'm gonna try and learn everything I can about his truck, I bought a manual and have been reading it when I get a chance, this site will always be my first go if I have any questions or need help, thank you

I have a full time up scheduled tomorrow morning, I had to ordery rotors because I can't find the right ones anywhere so I'm have to wait on those, I also got a quote for 250$ to replace the cat(which I think may be the loss of power based on what I've learned the past 24 hrs lol).hopefully the tuneup does something and wakes her up a little bit if not do you guys think it's a safe idea to throw 250 at the cat? Of course I'm having my trusted mechanic do all of this and won't he touching myself

Yes, it should pull that rig, no problem. Back in the day I used to pull a 3200lb. '71 Cuda dirt tracker and trailer with a '63 Ford F100 sporting a 223 six and 3 speed manual.
Just because we have been told we need the latest powerstroke cummings 3500HD whatever to pull a moderate load doesn't mean we really do.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Make sure there is not 2 cats? Some did have 2. Do you need to leave one on at all? I would think you can get a high performance one through Summit for less than that, but then you would need a little pipe work too.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

If you don't have emissions testing in your area, I'd just eliminate the catalytic converter. For gits and shiggles I had mine tested after removing the cats, the EGR, and swapping to HEI. It passed well above the minimum standards. A smoothly running engine is cleaner than a bad one with smog equipment.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Just another possibility for the OP or mechanic to check. The parking brake on my '82 D150 was refusing to release on the right rear, shortly after I got it and put all new rear brakes on it. I have read of a number of trucks from that era with the problem. After whacking the center pivot for the cables to release the brake, I didn't use the parking brake for some time. I dosed the pivot bolt repeatedly with penetrating fluid over months and worked it back and forth with a mallet. It now releases the parking brake. Some have also reported a seized up cable which could also cause the same problem. If one or both of the rear wheels/drums are very hot, maybe smoking, it's happening. I plan on replacing my cables down the line a bit. After freeing the rear brakes, there was meaningful increase of power and hill climbing ability.

My lean burn seems to be functioning pretty well and the cat isn't clogged. The hill climbing ability of this 3600 lb. truck plus me, is nothing to write home about. Anything fairly steep at moderate speeds and I am going down to 2nd gear ( manual with 3.2 diff, 27.7 in. tires). HEI conversion is happening soon along with older BBD and set up vacuum distributor. I may fly up the Pa. hills.

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1982 Dodge D150 ( Ram)
225 with A833OD. 2bbl. Non power brakes

Good idea if he can where he lives. In Pa., even non emission inspection counties have a visual inspection for 5 emission components as part of the regular safety inspection. An antique tag would get you out of that in Pa., but you can't legally haul anything or operate after dark with that tag.

The '84 seems to be the first year for the "mini ox" pre cat on the head pipe. At least you can still buy that pipe for a slant truck with pre cat from Davico, maybe others. The '81 to "83 head pipe with no pre cat, was discontinued from Walker and is not to be found in the US or Canada. Unless you have a V-8. Sad!

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1982 Dodge D150 ( Ram)
225 with A833OD. 2bbl. Non power brakes

You don't just want to hand the truck to a mechanic, even a good one, and say "replace the cat". Because then what they'll almost certainly do is grab a basic "universal" cat and put it on. That's a repair that won't last, for reasons explained in this post here (red text on this board is a clickable link). Your truck, depending on the equipment it was built with, might have two cats (one in the exhaust headpipe just down from the manifold outlet; one under the floor) or it may have just one (under the floor). What you can do to get a good, cost-effective, durable cat(s) without running back and forth between your mechanic and the board here is to tell the mechanic to put in a California-legal converter. Those are the good ones that last, and they can be ordered in any state. The catalog of Eastern Catalytic, a reputable maker, is here, and they show listings for your truck. The front cat (just down from the manifold outlet) is № 703005, and the rear cat (under the floor) is № 704007.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes the parking break was sticking, it unstuck itself somehow checked the rotors and there crap like expected, brake calipers are functioning properly and brakes don't seem to be dragging anymore, I got a full tune up today new ignition, rotor, cap etc and it's driving smoother and idling alot better but still has no balls up a hill whatsoever,

Is there an easy way to test the catalytic converter myself, I don't have a laser thermometer and have the basic tools only, my ole timer neighbor who owns some older fords told me I could maybe disconnect the o2 sensor and see how she drives up a hill?

Does that sound like a good idea?

Yes the parking break was sticking, it unstuck itself somehow checked the rotors and there crap like expected, brake calipers are functioning properly and brakes don't seem to be dragging anymore, I got a full tune up today new ignition, rotor, cap etc and it's driving smoother and idling alot better but still has no balls up a hill whatsoever,

Is there an easy way to test the catalytic converter myself, I don't have a laser thermometer and have the basic tools only, my ole timer neighbor who owns some older fords told me I could maybe disconnect the o2 sensor and see how she drives up a hill?

Does that sound like a good idea?

No.
Your old-timer neighbor doesn't know what he's talking about. Disconnecting the O2 sensor will not (cannot) tell you anything about the cat(s).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yea he's always drunk LMAO that's why I came here first, I think hevsaid something like it will be like" it will be like an exhaust leak to let some extra pressure out if it's clogged" , good thing I had a feeling he was full of $#!+

What my muffler shop did was drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter and stick a gauge in the hole. It was running when he did that. Then he did the same thing before the converter and got a 7 PSI difference. It is something I would leave to the shop to do. IIRC it didn't cost much for the test.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

by removing the o2 sensor from the pipe (not just disconnecting the wire) is a good test for a clogged cat. It allows the exhaust to escape before the cat. Another test is to use a vacuum gauge. Start the engine, and watch the gauge. Snap the throttle, and see if the vacuum returns to around 20 inches, quickly, then returns to the same as what you had at idle. If the vacuum returns slowly then the cat is probably clogged. This test is done with the exhaust system in normal closed condition (no leaks).

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225