i dont think my first post went through. lst night i started my super six swap and everything went great till i broke off the manifold to manifold bolts. i didnt want break the bolts connecting the manifold to the head pipe so i just loosened a braket and slid the manifolds away from the head till i could get the intake off. now i have to get those bolts out. my dad has a bolt extractor but we are a little worried about gettin the bolts out with that. with the manifold still on the car its gonna be tough to take it somewhere to have them removed unless i take the manifold off, but id prolly break to more bolts by the way they felt when i tried to get them loose. i guess the repeated soakings of penetrating lubricant over the past 3 weeks just could bust through the rust and heat stuck bolts. any ideas, tips, tricks, suggestion? thanks for any help anyone might have.

You will need to get the exhaust manifold off the car to drill-out and retap the busted-off bolt holes.

Use a wire brush on the exposed stud threads on the ends of the studs and apply heat as you carefully work the nuts off. Work them by loosening / tightening / loosening...and spray with lube until they come-off.
If the whole stud / nut comes out of the head, that is Ok. (some coolent will come-out so drain the level down to prevent this) Stick the stud in a vice and remove the nut.
DD

are the bolts threaded throught the manifold or just through a nut on the bottom of the manifold. can i maybe screw them out the bottom and will they fall out once the threads are through?

The manifold is threaded and you can screw the "stubs" out from the bottom. Be sure to grind or drill the tops of the broken bolt a little to remove any flared-out material created when the bolt broke.
Again, apply some heat and "work" them. If I can get a broken bolt / stud to "crack loose", I can get it out.

FYI, I never had much success with "bolt extractors" (Easy-outs) Nothing easy about these things, if it breakd your really "screwed".

If I can't get the "stub" out then I just center punch the stub Dead center, start with a .125 drill and drill it straight thru, then step-up to a .234 (15/64) If you drilled straight, try a .250 (1/4) drill and you will be able to "pick-out" the remaining slivers of bolt threads, sometimes the remaining threads will just pull-out like a spring unwinding. If you can pick-out enough old bolt to expose the original threads so you can start a 5/16-18 tap, you got it, just run the tap through to clean-out the remaining chunks of metal.
Drill the stub dead center is the key to success with this effort.
DD

I agree. Easy outs have almost never worked for me with any success. If you apply heat to aid in removal, you upset the temper of the extractor and soften it.

I find cobalt bits to be helpful in mainaining a proper center when drilling. Using a drill press when practicable will also be a big help. Ive heard suggestions that once it's drilled, applying lots of heat and then "quenching" with water will shrink the bolt slightly and make it easier to remove. I have never tried this successfully.

I wouldnt worry much about the tailpipe bolts; mine was drilled through long ago for standard nuts and bolts, and there's nothing wrong with this if it's aligned properly. If you use grade 8 bolts you will have an easier time getting them off again.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

We had to do this to my block's oil galley plug as it was seized and the allen key didn't want to 'grab' so well....

In your case, clean the area around the stud good, then I'd drill it for an easy out, then hit the stud remain with a torch until it's dull red, grab a stick of paraffin or an old candle and quench/press the candle onto the stud remain, the heat will suck the wax into the threads like flux into a solder area, cool with compressed air or wait an hour, then try to easy out the rem. On mine the plug came out like someone had anti-seized it 3 minutes ago. I've seen this trick done by a few 'old' and savvy mechanics in the area, along with my grandfather.

Cobalt bits are $$$ but they'll save some headaches, they can drill through stuff that titanium carbide bits wither in front of...

-D.Idiot

guys it looks like a lucked out. i took my half inch wrench and broke the bolts loose from the bottom and screwed them out from the bottom by hand. loks like that whole can of penetrol paid off. now i just gotta get everything cleaned up and put it back together. i can tell itll be an adventure getting the head to manifold bolt that is on the bottom by the choke stove on. my dad and i struggled getting that one off last night. any advice?

I have always had a hard time with that one. I used a piece of scotch tape to secure the nut and triangular washer to my socket, than used a footlong extension. If you have a magnetic socket you will have better luck. It is very difficult. Be careful not to cross the threads.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

The way I found that works, is to use a long small bladed screwdriver or a piece of coat hanger wire. I slide the washer onto the screwdriver or wire with the washer positioned dome side away from the head, and put the tip of whatever I've used to the center of the stud, then use another long similar device to push the washer onto the stud. then to get the nut started I use a 1/4" drive socket some of the cheap sets have a 1/2" socket to just get the nut started on to the stud straight.