Looking for advice. I’m a diesel guy but have owned gas dodge pickups in the past. Always wanted a slant six 4x4, so bought one that I found. An ‘84 w-150 stick. Went about replacing lots of stuff. Wanted to retain the emissions for CO, so put the cat and air pump back in. Had lean burn issues so ended up taking that system off and leaving cat and air pump on. Went with n.o.s. 1920 or 1945 carb, electronic distributor, Pertronix ignition and coil. New wires, cap, fuel pump, filter, thermostat, radiator, etc. etc. Yes I pulled number one and made sure timing was right on. Thing pings on acceleration. Tried timing changes, new manifold gaskets(vacuum leak), vacuum hoses, higher octane fuel, intake cleaner, (no carbon when intake was off). Adjusted idle mixture, fast and slow idle speeds. Plugged of vacuum to dizzy. Two ASE mechanics have worked on it. Still pings.....Two suggestions have been made: rejet car. To run richer, check dizzy advance for too much or too quick advance. Both of of these are outside of my knowledge. I have checked the vacuum advance and can’t find the Allen key adjuster. Anybody have better ideas? I’ve put a bunch of money in the truck and really like it, but no good if I can’t run it down the road! Thanks in advance!

It is in the end of the vacuum pod when you pull the vacuum hose off.

I would take a timing light and see how fast the mechanical advance is coming in and what the total mechanical advance is. Most Distributors have too much mechanical advance. You can weld up the slots or install a limiter plate to restrict how much total advance you get. I run all of our trucks at about 8-10 degrees initial and 28-30 total mechanial.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks! I’ll check timing total advance. Is there a kit or a source to buy a electronic fizzy already set up right for my truck? I’m not quite sure how to modify mine myself?

Put the EGR back on and make sure it works correctly.

Brian

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

I second the motion to re install the EGR,
EGR provides non-combustable volume to the combustion chamber and will reduce
combustion temperatures.

If you do that or not, you still need top get a handle on both sides of the ignition timing
1) the initial timing setting, 2) the advance curve

Checking the initial timing requires only a timing light,
however on a vehicle as old as yours, you should also verify that the timing mark has not slipped on the damper hub.
To do that you will need a piston stop.The process is not difficult.

piston stop tool

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/pr ... 92/4658996

to verify that the timing mark is in the right place on the damper (the ring has not slipped)

1) remove all the spark plugs, that will make the engine easier to turn over by hand
2) position the #1 cylinder so that the piston is moving up on the compression stroke, and is not at TDC
3) install the top dead center tooll in #1 spark plug hole. You will need to adjust the length of the stop so it contacts and holds the piston just short of TDC. It may take a couple of trys to get the length right. If you can rotate the engine past TDC, the stop tool is set too short.
4) rotate the engine by hand so that the #1 piston stops hard against the piston stop
5) observe the timing index plate on the front cover, using a marker, put a line on the damper ring that aligns to the index TDC mark,
6) rotate the engine by hand in the opposite direction till #1 piston contacts hard the piston stop, again, put a mark on the damper ring that aligns to the index TDC mark.
7) the factory timing mark on the damper should be in the center of the two marks that you made. If it is, your damper ring has not slipped. If the factory TDC mark is not in the center
of your two marks, the timing ring has slipped and that will cause your initial timing setting to be in error.


Concerning changing the advance curve ( springs) in a distributor, that also is not
really difficult. the article below has information on that.

http://jtsjunkyard.blogspot.com/2011/04 ... ronic.html

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Vacuum advance unit in an engine with EGR have more maximum advance degrees compared to one without EGR. Adjustment with allen key moves ignition vacuum advance to higher vacuum numbers but doesnt reduce maximum degrees. More effective way is to limit the vacuum advance by modifying the vacuum advance unit or replacement from non EGR engine distributor.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

Exhaust plugged test with vacuum gauge https://www.google.com/search?gs_ivs=1& ... rter#tts=0