Hi all, I have finally gotten some time to work out some bugs on my slant and have decided to tackle the carburetion and distributor problems. I had a bad advance can on my Chrysler distributor and swapped in a cast iron Prestolite I had lying around. I timed it for around 7* initial. Not having a manual I just guessed at it, probably should have set it at 10. The power seems pretty low.

Having done a search I found mentioned the Slant likes between 28* and 32* total advance, should be in around 2200 RPM. Correct? This is on a stock slant with 1920 carb. No vacuum leaks.

So using this dizzy where should I time it initially, where should my mech top out, and what are we looking at for total advance, and at what RPM? And how can any variances be corrected? This is a 64 Polara engine.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Update... I futzed around a bit more, advanced my initial timing to 10*, and now have 26* total advance, and it is all in at 1600. Also performed a running lash adjustment, and power has somewhat returned but my temperature is still higher than I want it. It's peaking at halfway between midpoint on my gauge and the upper safe limit marker, whereas I was used to it running in the middle. Sorry, no hard numbers there.

I have no vacuum leaks. Will recurving the dizzy to extend my advance curve to 2200 help with temperature and power, or do I need to rejet this thing? I really like the mileage Im getting and now more than ever I dont want it to fall if I can help it...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Kinda sounds like she's lean and burning too early (explains the heat + mileage thing)...Too bad you don't have an A/F ratio meter and an O2 sensor plumbed in, it'd tell you right off the bat what happened... If you're using an EI distributor you can get it all 'in' by 2300 by using the small stock spring in the current distributor and a 'blue' medium spring out of another /6 or 318 distributor, and the advance will go up by 2-4 degrees per 400 rpm until the governor yards it in...


good luck, sounds like it's time to pull that thing and go for a crank trigger...

-D.Idiot

no kidding lol. Actually I pick up the original engine on wednesday so I gotta limp along with this one "as-is" for a few weeks more.

Is recurving my distributor going to solve anything, or should I try another carb? An AF meter and wideband O2 are in the car's future for sure.

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I'd be curious as to what jet # you have in there right now.

-D.Idiot

well on tuesday we will all find out.. I'll crack open the BBS again and write that number down, that's more than likely the one my car's going to end up with after this is all done, but I have the 1920 on there now and parts from another I found at work... I'll see what they are at as well. Any suggestions?

I seem to remember a discussion about certain motorcycle jets fitting the 1920... I'll have to do a search. What about the BBS? Anyone found substitute jets for those yet? Maybe the BBD variants? or even... NAPA?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Update: The metering block was plugged. I had a #57 port in there and my spare was a #56, no help there... Threw on my BBS and temperature improved, but the bottom was right out of it. It literally did not accelerate after a 1-2 upshift unless I was at 40MPH.

Put my spare advance pot on my Chrysler dizzy and threw it back in. Set it to 4* initial and now have 37* at 1700. Fiddled with the choke stove and it's right back to normal.

Sometimes two things do go at once...

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.