Loose converter bolts or flexplate-to-crank bolts can sound almost exactly like a rod knock when the bolts are just a little loose. Not when they are backed out so the heads are hitting something, but when they are all loose a little and the plate/converter rocks back and forth and the bolt shafts hit the holes repeatedly. Ask Greg... This is such an easy check, at least on the converter side, it is worth it before you pull anything apart. When you pull engine or trans, you can get to the flex-to-crank bolts and see if they are loose. I always overtorque mine to about 70 ft-lbs and use locktite and now they never loosen.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I was at the track, with a new engine. After a couple of runs, I heard a "bearing knock", so loaded up and went home.
Couple days later, started to pull engine. Removed intake, headers, all fuel and electrical, starter,etc. Everything up top. Jacked the car up, removed nuts/bolts from mounts, and trans. Last things was the converter bolts that were only HAND TIGHT. I had gotten side tracked when installing them and did not even tighten much less lock tite them. Lesson learned.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks I'm going to check it today and make sure cause I ran it last night and can barely hear the knock I'm lost at this point I just put about 4 oz of marvel mystery oil the day before that's all ?

The folks taking loose converter bolts are speaking from drag race experience and / or recently serviced
transmissions. And yes it is true that slants, when built for HP, ran at high rpms, will shake the torque converter bolts loose. However for the original poster, unless the transmission was recently serviced and
in that service the torque converter bolts were loosened then not properly torqued, it extremely unlikely that the torque converter bolts somehow loosened in a car that is used primarily as a normal street driver.
The good news is checking for loose torque converter bolts is relatively easy. It involves removing a dust shield and getting access to the torque converter bolts that are removed when
the engine is separated from the transmission.

Concerning the engine stalling when the transmission is shifted from park to drive,
Assuming that the idle speed is correct,
When was the last time the engine got a good tune-up?
Spark plugs, ignition wires, rotor-cap, timing set, air and fuel filter?
Carb and choke pull off checked and adjusted.
The tune up items listed above require few special tools, there are folks here that can walk you through the process. But don’t invest more time and money into the tune up until the knock is resolved.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Only thing not changed is timing chain and carb choke pulloff but I was driving it and the car would only go if I stop and go so I stop and looked and notice a little transmission fluid coming from seal but trans is good but the part that lost me I have oil all in the front of the trans between motor but I don't know where it's coming from. Turned it on and drove it a lil bit no oil drip checked oil good , got block away from started knocking coasted home and parked.

First, I haven't seen if/how the flex plate attaches to the converter...…........

We had a 78 Cadillac in which the flex plate was still attached to the lugs on the converter, but the lugs were no longer welded to the converter...

Able to fix from underneath without removing trans, just rewelded lugs to converter.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

MotorHoggGears,, what is your plan?

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Work on it the eagle. So it takes a little min to start up now spray a lil starter fluid starts right up but I notice that the engine shakes and the hissing sound from exhaust bank 2 is letting little shot of smoke out so my plan is to take care of the timing chain , check and go over flex plate ,buy new one just to be on the safe side there cheap from what I see.
When I first got the engine running it shook a lil bit even when I got it to idle low so everything explained seems like timing and flexplate.

Also exhaust manifold gasket and rodbearing to be on the safe side but I plan on picking up a fully assembled block from space frank tomorrow so either way all will be good

Sounds like a great plan,
Space Frank will give sound advice,
Stay with it and your car will be running fine in no time!

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks I feel way better