it's not a slant issue, but i have to get the fury going so i can tear down the valiant.
my 66 fury III had a poorly rebuilt 360 and a 727 in it when i got it, and the tranny has not functioned since the rebuild. here are the symptoms:

- the tranny acts like it is in park(locked wheels, no output) no matter what position the gearshift is in.
-there are no unusual grinding or other sounds
-the back-up lights and neutral safety switch function normally.


i have removed the pan and inspected the linkage while the lever was moved through the gears and it appears to work correctly. i am hoping to not have to drop the tranny, but even if i do have to bring it out, i need to know where to start looking for problems. you guys have any ideas what is wrong here?

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First I would make sure that it is full of fluid. If it has a new torque converter it is going to take about a case of fluid to fill the converter and the sump. Then I would make sure that the bands are adjusted properly. THen I would spend $200-300 to buy a "good" boneyard transmission or the $600-900 to have yours rebuilt by a shop. Sorry.

Reed

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

the level was fine on the dipstick, but now it's drained,for diagnostics. are there special instructions for filling it

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If the output (drive shaft and wheels) are locked in any gear position, Look for a disconnected or improperly assembled park lock mechanism. Eventhough the lever you inspected may work correctly, if the park lock mechanism is screwed up.......
If you can find a manual or knowledgeable person to help you on this would be good. I'm pretty sure you can inspect and remove/install the park rod without removing the transmission.
Good luck.

Does the engine load when you put it in gear, or does it feel like neutral all the time?
When you say, "since the rebuild", do you mean the engine, tranny, or both?
If the drive shaft is "locked", either the park rod is in wrong/disconnected/etc, the pawl is in wrong, or there's something inside the trans broken/installed wrong/etc.
Tell us as much as you can about what has been done.
The park rod comes out with the valve body, and the pawl can be accessed by removing the tailshaft housing, so hopefully you won't have to pull the trans.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

well, i kinda got frustrated. i have never had an automatic tranny, and have always been able to fairly quickly diagnos and fix any car trouble i've had. i went to the u-pull-it yard and grabbed another tranny($150), but i would still like to fix the original one, for a back-up, or to sell to recoup the money i spent on the new one, or, most importantly, because i can't stand the fact that i didn't fix it. so here are some more details:

the motor and tranny came from a motorhome and were rebuilt(i think both motor and tranny, both have clean cases and freshly painted pans/covers) by a crackhead, and the previous owner lost patients just as he was finishing. the motor/tranny were put in the car, but never run, and it sat for two years.

as described above, it seems to always be in park, and there is no "load" if i put it in drive, so i don't think it is the park rod/gearlock(i could see the rod moving, but could not see the lock gear in the tailshaft) it really does seem like, altough the linkage all works, it does not leave park.

i don't know if it is hydraulic problem or a clutch or what, but i don't think that it is a simple mechanical problem. i'll remove the tailshaft housing tommarow and see if anything is out of order there, but at least i can get here on the road now.
thanx

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Did you mate the motor/trans or were they already put together and installed? If you put the motor/trans together, did you have trouble pulling them together with the bolts? It could be the trans pump was broken during the install because of the convertor not being fully engaged to the trans. Broken pump feels like all gears are neutral. And there's a slim chance the input shaft/convertor are incompatable, which again would not run the pump and all gears feel like neutral.

Cecil

For filling the tranny you have to pour 3/4 of the nominal fluid capacity in the tranny plus converter, then start the engine and let it run (in neutral) for some time, then shift 1 - 2 - D - N - R - P then N again and see how's the dipstick. Then (with the engine running) add some oil as needed. Then shift again the above listed pattern and recheck, then drive the car for normal warmup period (20 blocks would do it) then recheck again and add fluid if needed.