I am inching forward on a engine swap, and realized I may be smart to put a new timing set on the engine before it is installed for the last time.

I've read that the Rollmaster is top shelf.. . and accurately machined. It may well be worth the extra $55 to install it. . . Which I am leaning towards.

My question is: Is it possible to degree in the new timing components with out removing the head?

Also if the head has to come off.... what are the chances that I can re-use the steel shim head gasket?

I would rather not loose the compression of going to a composite head gasket... Then this "might as well" will become a a lot bigger than just refreshing the timing chain and gears..

You might need some RTV sealant, you will remove some bolts from the lower pan and you need to reseal it. Look on how the oil slinger is installed before removing it. You might want to change the crankshaft neck seal too. You will need to press the gear in the Crankshaft, I used the threaded hole inside the tip of the crankshaft inserting a threaded rod and pressing with a nut, a wrench and an sleeve (with manual transmission I left the car in gear and the engine did not turn... not sure on how this works for automatic transmissions (lever in park, I guess). Check the Service Manual before doing anything, and check the forum for more info

My 2 cnts...

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
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OK, Thanks for the tips. I will have to do it with the engine removed, as the front crossmember is right under the front of the oil pan. Will plan accordingly and find some way to keep the crankshaft from turning.

You shouldn't need to drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover. You just have to remove the (4?) bolts along the front edge of the oil pan that thread into the bottom of the timing cover. It's been many years since I've replaced a timing set with the engine in the car, but I have done it.

The only potential issue I can see is damaging the rubber front section of the oil pan gasket, especially if it's very old. It's possible you'll rip off the little locating nubs that pull through the bottom of the timing cover, but that's not really a problem as long as you get the bolt holes lined up properly on reinstallation. I agree you'll want to use RTV to reseal the original gasket, but don't go overboard and have a lot of goop gushing out when you tighten it. I'd actually suggest Gray RTV for this, because (as far as I know) it's the only type intended to be fully tightened when still wet.

I also agree you should press in a new front seal while you have the cover off. You can knock the old one out from the front with a screwdriver and a hammer, just be careful not to dent the cover itself. New one goes in with a block of wood and a deadblow hammer.

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