I am exploring options and designing engine mounts to put a Slant 6 into an M37.

My present focus is to find additional clearance between the front driveshaft and the 11" truck bell housing. Once I have accomplished that, I am guessing the front differential will be far enough away form the oil pump for worry free operation.

One thought I am considering is if I can tip the engine back upright slightly. That would solve both issues, and probably create new ones. Specifically I am concerned about the oil pick up being able to do it's job, and the carb float being effected as well. At present I am thinking having the passenger side engine mount about 1" higher than the drivers side, which may be all that is necessary from a clearance standpoint.

What are your thoughts on this?

Another option I am considering is to put a little more spring under the front end, and or a combination of both.

I doubt 1" would be much of an issue, but I would attempt to solve the issue in a different way. Also consider that tilting the engine means tilting the transmission and transfer case, and that may not work.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Is the oil pan clearance the issue? If so there may be another pan style that will allow you not to have to tilt it. Also the possibility of modifying the pan and welding it closed is possible. as well.

No. the issue is with wanting more clearance between the front differential "pumpkin" and the oil pump.. And the passenger side of the bell housing has a tab that sticks (clutch dust cover mounting surface) that will be in the way of the front driveshaft during suspension compression.

Ok will keep working on other solutions and leave this as a last resort.

Suspension lift? Yeah, I know.....the M37 is tall enough as it is, but if you could push the diff down a little under that engine, it might solve your dilemma.

Roger

How about a late rear sump pan from a /6 truck? One of the gurus will chime in but, there are about 7 different pans. If the sump is in the right place, then modify the pan. The issue with the engine\trans up towards the rear, will be the pinion angles. I know this won't be high speeds being a M37 so, You may be ok. I've had to make mounts to get the 2-3 degrees down. My 2 cents. Craig

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I'm going to attempt to fix this project and not make it any worse.

Remote oil pump?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks Guys, I think I have solved some of the driveshaft clearance issue.. so we are making progress.
I considered it.. and maybe of it comes down to that... it is an option I will not rule out, although such would complicate the accessory drive, and I am a bit space challenged at the front of the crank. But Oil pressure could take the place of the power steering pump if need be.
Most definitely crossed my mind, and will likely be a part of the solution. I would prefer NOT to increase the spring rate, as I have a WDX Power Wagon, and it is a harsh riding truck.. I am sure radial tires would help, but I do not put enough miles on it to justify the expense... Thus I am hoping to retain the more comfortable ride of the M37.
No trouble with the oil pan clearance, Just the differential pumpkin being offset to the passenger side, gets close to the external oil pump on the slant 6

I think I need to talk with a driveshaft specialist, to find out how short I can allow the intermediate propeller shaft to be.. Right now I have about 10" total between the transfer case output flange, and the NP445 output shaft. I could revert to a NP435 because it is a bit shorter, but I really want 4 useable gears, and the close ratio box seems like it would be ideal... IF I can find a way to bring the whole engine and transmission rearward 1.5 inches then the oil pump clearance issue is taken care of.. That may fuss up my present idea for the front differential propeller shaft, but a suspension lift would probably solve that.. OR a suspension lift solves both.. which may make the transmission to transfer case propeller shaft longer, thus better....

So is the best answer to lift the it up a bit... ? Kinda seems like it to me at this moment.

Any and all viewpoints welcome.

Electric remote oil pump?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Discouraged to recognize that by changing the transmission I am using, I can solve the clearance issues. Discouraged b/c I wanted a close ratio box, and have one, but it is 3" longer. If I exchange that for a NP435, I gain the ability to move the engine back, and solve the oil pump and driveshaft clearance issue, as well as the driveshaft length issue to the transfer case. It is the simple solution even if I do not like it. I guess I can keep an eye out for a close ratio NP435 at some point, which is a post for the transmission section of the forum.