Hello Mr. Dan! Yeah, for now we're sticking with originality. My son might want to change a few things later but for now WW-1 Satin White will be fine.

Here's the remnants of the original engine color. Took the motor mount in Friday for the color match at the paint shop.

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This is him driving it last Spring. Hard to get a color to match for that interior much better that the original white.

Making progress...

You'll be happy to know that I had a question about this 1960 pushbutton auto but...before I asked it I scanned the FAQs in the Transmission section and found my answers there. Hoping to install the now-rebuilt engine back into the car this weekend.

Dang, I LOVE that engine color. Is that factory metallic engine paint? I should probably get more creative with my engine color choices...

Glad to see you enjoying the car!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Dart270: Thanks, yep, that was a 1-year only slant 6 color for 1960. Even armed with the paint codes I couldn't find anybody to make it up for us, so I had to take in some original parts (motor mount) for a color-match (using some whiz-bang computer optical scanner). it seemed to work fairly well. Hoping now to get the engine completed and re-installed into the car this coming weekend. Fall break is here for my boy so he's on tap to assist with that process. The only thing standing in the way is a possible re-do of the original push-button 904 tranny (better now than later, I suppose).

Thanks, Lloyd. Maybe you could post the paint mix parameters?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sadly...

Sadly, there was a charge to get that printout so I passed on it not thinking I'd ever need it again, sorry. Allen Paint in south Denver did the work for me. They said that they would keep the formulation for a short time if we needed more.

Ready to install...



Couldn't have done it without all the critical information here. Thank you all!

Good "before" shot...

It runs...



Smooth, quiet, silky idle, no smoke, but...still too warm. By the time we'd run it for 20 minutes to break in the cam, it was nearly overheating. I'm guessing it's the radiator now. I'm about ready to buy a modern replacement. We don't have the heater core included just yet, is it possible we've short-circuited the system somehow by not including it?

Also...



Exner and Fins, and why my son loves it.



It was a Gates Rubber Pant car here in Denver for many years.



Rust...I guess we'll need to build a car around that dive-line now.



A plea for help....can't find this backup light lens anywhere (the driver's side is missing). My son has looked for almost 9-months online and in the local wrecking yards now, with zero results. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Bypassing the heater core won't stop water from circulating through the radiator. Did you install the thermostat pointing the right way? The body of the thermostat should be toward the cylinder head, where the water gets hot. The shorter side should point into the thermostat housing.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Fresh engines always run hotter because they are breaking in (grinding up) all the fresh metal surfaces on the rings, bearings, etc... You might be OK once you get it on the road and drive for a while (100-500 miles).

If you want a likely more instant change, at least temporarily, you can pull the thermostat out altogether. I have found with Slants that they run cooler w/o the 'stat, contrary to what the Chevy/V8/whoever guys say.

Still a good/new radiator can be a beautiful thing, and that is likely the best option, unless you KNOW yours is not crudded up or corroded inside.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

We'll pull the thermostat today and see what that buys us. However, this unit has had a heating problem for years. I'm wondering if a v8 sized rad might be the best solution?

Is it a new or recored radiator, or at least not an original and recently boiled/rodded out? A stock replacement should work fine, if decent quality. I think there are nice aluminum replacements available that have larger cores and fit in the stock location. Champion brand, maybe?? Dan found some nice ones and folks here have used those.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988