What is the best way to remove the lead plug out of the top of a Holley 1945 so I can adjust the power valve. I've been pouring over carburetor manuals trying to learn more about this snuffcan of a carburetor.

Is adjusting the power valve as simple as turning the screw one way or another?

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I'll be honest with you, unless you are trying to really fine tune your carb, I would not fool around with this. However, the 1945s are setup lean from the factory. I enlarged the power valve channel restriction which will give more fuel when the power valve does open. You can gain access to the PVCR by drilling through the lead shot sealing this passage which is located at the bottom of the carb body on the choke/passenger side. I don't remember the specs - I have them written down somewhere, but I enlarged this passage enough to give about 15% more fuel. This made a very noticable difference in performance at heavy throttle. Once you drill this passage, you can seal it by laying a small piece of solver solder over the access hole you drilled and then heat with a propane or MAP torch. You will need a small set of twist drills - #60 to #80 or you must at least be able to purchase these individually.

The idle circuits are also setup very lean. I drilled out the idle feed restriction to give between 10 - 20% more fuel (I don't remember exactly). This makes a big difference in off idle throttle response. You can check this calibration by making your best idle mixture adjustment at normal idle speed. Then manually raise and hold the idle speed to about 1400 - 1500 RPM and readjust the idle mixture. You must make sure you do not have fuel flowing out of the booster venturi when you do this because this means you are running partially off the main circuit. If you find turning the idle mixture screw out gives an increase in engine speed, then your idle circuit is too lean. When you get this right, your initial adjustment will hold at all engine speeds up until you start running off the main power circuit. Before doing this, you should have your jetting close to where it needs to be.

In case you want to know, my typical fuel mileage is in the range of about 18 city to about 25 hwy. 1980 Aspen with a lockup converter.

Mitch

I take it that I will have to take carb off the car in order to gain access to the PVCR?

I know that I am going to definitely going to have jet this carb a little richer, but I can do that with the carb on the car.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Ford used to sell a small plastic or nylon split washer that you snapped onto the shaft that the spring is wrapped around above the spring and it increased the spring tension to inrich the power valve they recomended
no more than two of these if I remember correctly

The carb must be removed to modify the power circuit.

Mitch

First I think I will jet the carb richer first and then go from there. Someone here recommended a #60 jet which I am having a hard time finding. I think that a richer jet will help compensate some for the lean power valve.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Another way to seal that hole is the way why Holley did it originally with a Lead ball

Ridge line

file plug flat, center punch use 1/8 or number 28 drill bit. Real easy do not go too deep. When done tap ball with small hammer.

Left over drill remnants, if this happens bend paper clip like a fish hook, will come right out.

Good Tips Mavtv91,

I dont think Jeb has been on here in 10 years or so.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Here's that ball ready to be tapped with the hammer

After tapping with hammer epoxy can be applied to the outside, as a secondary measure against leaks