hey,

well i got my slantsix running with the stock cam for now, waiting on my Comp 264S to come in.

here are the specs. 1976 Slantsix (cast bottom end), head off of an 85 that was shaved .1" and mildly ported. Holley 600 on an offy intake with stock exhaust (also waiting for my Hooker Headers to come in) well i got it running and i have a recurved dist (2light springs, 9R gov.) i have it set @ 0* timing so i'm getting a total of 18* b/c of the 87 octane.

well i put about 75miles on yesterday @60mph on the hwy i've always had 45-50lbs hot on the why, now i'm down to 35psi the @ idle psi is still 20 (800rpm) i'm just wondering why i was having some pretty serious cooling issues (160* thermostat, 5blade clutch fan thats got a broken thermostat) so after upgrading to a 7blade clutch fan (replaced the clutch with a new unit) i have that almost under control (going to look for a v8 rad)

i have to fine tune the lash, fix an exhaust leak, and run another tank of premium then i'll bring the timing back up to 10* +

i have 3.90 gears in an 8.25" rear with 245/60/14's on the rear, and 205/60/14's on the front.

this is only a temp engine untill i can finish a forged bottom end for next year, but i'd still like to beable to run with the faster imports around here (going to use a sniper kit to help, probably a 75 shot) i want to hit 14's with my 3400lbs car (race weight with me in it)

I also have to do some tuning to the holley, i've upgraded the jets to 57's, i have 25 shooters, pink cam on the first setting and a purple spring in the secondarys (the plate is equivilent to a 74 jet, so i'll have to get a metering block kit for it) any advice here is welcome to

thanks!

I would change the oil and filter and keep an eye on it.
What type of oil are you using?
DD

I'd say just off the 'bat', I'd jet up to 60's in the primaries, switch to a 'brown spring' until you can get the primary side dialed in correctly.
The 25 might be OK, The pink cam is 'huge', you might see if anyhting changes if you back off to an Orange 466 cam in the #1 or #2 position.
Your cam change later will still be mild, so hopefully this will get you closer to regaining any mileage if you street drive, and still keep all your power...


If Dennis Weaver pops in, just swap to an Edelbrock 500 cfm AFB clone....


-D.Idiot

...Oh don't worry, all that sickening Holley-speak (eg: pink cams, brown springs, ad nauseum) will keep him away...

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

lol, thanks guys...

i guess i'll pick up a cam kit for the holley, and a metering block kit, and i guess i might as well get a jet kit also :shock If i move the pink cam to the second position will it make it alittle less or alittle more of a shot?

as for the oil pressure, went out for a cruise and it stayed rock solid at 35psi this is on new 10W30 quakerstate oil and a wix filter. I'll be changing to synthetic oil for saturday (going racing) and i'll put a new filter on also. I have magnets stuck to the oil filter so i'll cut it apart also.

If i find anything then i guess i'll be ripping a cast crank engine apart to redo it :shock

P.S. The sad thing is with the 3.91 gears i hit 3rd by the 1/8th mile and it runs out of cam just after! not only that but i CANNOT get my tires to spin on the street/strip, it just WILL NOT do a brake stand! not that it matters but you'd think from 2.76 to 3.91 gears and .1 taken off the head with a port job and 340 valve springs it would atleast spin them...

The #1 position is a small shot, the #2 position is a large shot...on the pink cam the #2 is about the largest shot you can make without going to a 50cc reservior and a brown cam...(it's just huge...)

-D.Idiot

well, tonight i did an oil change, and the results wernt too great i dont think. I didnt use a clean pan but there was some definate metal in the oil, so i cut the filter apart, and didnt see anything out of the ordinary in there. re filled with 20W50 castrol GTX erl and a K&N oil filter started it up and no change in oilpressures.

looks like i'll be pulling the pan, or getting a used forged crank engine thats still good to put it untill my "stroker" slant is finished next year.

Why not just drive it, and hope for the best? 35lbs is not high, but not really too low either. Standard rule of thumb is 10LBS per 1K of RPM. If things are not coming apart in there, then it should last a long time with that pressure. I wouldn't panic just yet. Back in 1964 I built a Pontiac with a racing V-8. It ran 30lbs of pressure at cruise, and like you I worried myself to death about it, but kept driving it. I put a ton of HARD miles on that engine before selling the car.

i spoke too soon, took it out for a run tonight, and 35psi hot @idle and 50-55 at 2000rpm 20W50 oil helped lol. i figure at 3500rpm the 10w30 oil must have been thinning out too much.

now to figure why this car is so SLOW

This does not sound right... is there a loop at the end of one of the light springs?
If you are getting 18 degrees of mechanical advance you should also have 12 degrees of initial advance, target 30 degrees total by 2800 RPMs.

Take a look at the distributor curve for the missing performance.
DD

doc, i dont think there is a loop, i pretty much took the heavy spring off, and then took alight spring off of a diff dist and put it on...

the sad part is, when i was running a totally stock setup, i ran 18.8's on the track, now that i have 9.5:1 compression (mesured) with a ported head, and 3.91 gears, i'm only running 18.2's on the gtech

i have no clue where i went wrong. I have a buch of carb stuff on order, and i went digging through the holly pile and found a white cam, installed it inplace of my pink cam in the #2 pos. and put in some 32? shooters. it needs alittle more of a shot, but its alot better than before.

i think at 10* BTDC i was reading 26* of advance on my timing light (dialed it so the mark was back at "0".....

i'll post more later when i'm back home and can look into things.