Several years ago I purchased a set of slant six roller rockers from Jim Cox.
These are 1.5 ratio, appear to be well made, they have bushings at the shaft,
drilled oil passages to the roller tip and the adjuster ball. The shaft has banana cuts
at the oil exits. The reground camshaft in this engine was a hydraulic cam so it has full time oiling.
I have the oil flow restricted using a bushing on the rear bolt, but it is still getting plenty up top.

I understand there are no huge performance gains with roller rockers,
but I have a lot of trick stuff in this motor and I already have this set.

Asking if anyone in this slant six world has experience with roller rockers in use outside of a dedicated strip car?
It is doubtful that I will put 50,000 miles on the 68 Barracuda, but it will see some long distance travel as well as track time.

Thoughts and opinions?

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
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Tip oiling was the only problem I can remember. It sounds like yours has that covered?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Some of those shafts(from various Vendors) were more flexible than stock ones.. I had to be careful on the torque on mine, A bit less torque on the shaft mounting bolts with loctite..

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Ditto with shaft wall thickness and flexing on the later RAS setups (which is what I think Jim sold). I tried an earlier set on the street and it noticeably wore the valve tips within a few 1000 miles. I have never run rollers since. I have a couple of sets still. I've been meaning to cut a groove in the rocker bushing to run oil betwixt the two oil holes (one to hit rocker shaft and one to hit oil hold to tip end). That seemed to be the problem with the tip oiling, from what I somewhat foggily recollect. I'd have to pull out a set and look. Would be nice to use one of these at some point.

Basically, I've been able to run 13s-14s in NA street cars w/stock rockers, and did not see a clear gain when I bolted on the rollers, so I have not bothered to try to make them work on the street. I do get some stock rocker accelerated wear over time with big cams and road racing, but I have a LOT of spares so that's free...

Greg made a spray bar for the inside of the valve cover for his hyperpak Dart, right? That seems to make 'em live on the street.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes I have Made a spray bar - Doc has it.....um.... Documented on his pictures some where..
I copied his idea.. ~5/16 Hard Brake line in the VC.. Welded or soldered in One end sealed shut.

Micro Drill bit on the angle facing the roller tips..
I have Pictures of that Car and engine here.... but no good detailed Pictures / process on the spray bar..
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmik8Xfu

Also the build thread exists.. Could have something useful there as well?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopi ... =6&t=13007

I would just use those rockers with the spray bar on a good clean stock shaft with possible mods for oiling betwixtness.

Greg

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Oh, I did look at swapping in a stock Mopar shaft, but it is about the same wall thickness as the late RAS shaft. I think the issue is that the clearance between rockers and shaft was large on the stockers, and pretty tight on the rollers. Torquing or over torquing the shaft with stockers won't bind 'em, but distortion of the shaft with the rollers will. Anyway, things to check...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Got it that makes sense. I never thought about swapping parts back then.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I had an early wet of RAS I tried on the street. They beat up the stems in less than 1000 miles. I think they started drilling them after that.

John, you need to build a valve cover with a clear top to show them off. They are pretty to look at.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Rick, Greg, Lou and Dennis
good thoughts, exactly what I was looking for,
thanks

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

this wasn't a slant 6, but maybe my exp with aftermarket roller rockers might help here?????

On my Durango (360 Magnum/"5.9") I replaced the engine in it a few years back. The replacement engine was a Craigslist buy, with a supposed 125k less miles on it than the one it was replacing. I dismantled it on the stand, far enough to completely regasket it, before I dropped it in/ and discovered the heads were cracked, so I dropped on a brand new set of EQ/Enginequest heads. I had a set of MP (I believe made/supplied to MP, by Crane) 1.7 ratio roller rockers, that a buddy had given me. Some of the pushrods that came with them, were worn down where they went past the guides ( guides are plastic, too... weird) bolted on beneath the rockers. so I found a set of brand new, (supposedly) hardened ones to replace them.
Original rocker ratio on a Magnum V8, is 1.6. I ran that engine with the new heads for a while, with the stock rockers, to make sure I had everything "debugged" before adding potentially more "things to go wrong" Probably put 20k miles since the engine swap to that point, but before I got around to trying these roller rockers. You guys all know, how an engine swap can go.....

I put these roller rockers on earlier this year, just prior to heading out on what wound up as close to a 2000-mile road trip, towing a utility trailer. . probably 10K miles on it now, since I put the rollers on. (Now 30k since the engine swap, and only 289k, on the body)
I would not have paid MP's $600 price tag. but for the price I paid, why not, right? Thought I'd get just a little more oomph out of it, being I was towing/ as the valve lift was more with the higher ratio rockers. Kind of like putting a "1 step over" cam into it.
I've done a pretty fair amount of towing over the years, but I had never towed a trailer thru the mountains of KY/TN before... with this or any other vehicle before. so, I thought it was a good time to "try them out".

When I very first put them on, I thought "Oh, shyt, what did I do"??? as right off the bat after I put the rollers on, this engine started smoking like He11, which had me worried. I thought 1st that I'd screwed this engine up, and bad. Fortunately, not. I'm thinking that now that I'm opening the valves farther, there must have been some oil/varnish on the valve stems or something, since the valves were now moving farther than they were used to, but I really thought I'd messed something up. Eventually the smoke cleared after letting it run like 45 minutes in the driveway. , we drove it around for a week or so before leaving. Seems like the Durango had a little more pull, in what I'd call the midrange, just in daily driving// just enough to have been noticeable, but nothing enough to write home about.
They have been quiet, not a peep out of them, but mileage in daily driving is just like it was, with the original stamped rockers. With the miles I have on them since I put them on, I'll probably pull a valve cover sometime this winter, and check for the issues you guys have spoken of with the slant rollers/ and to see if these pushrods show any kind of wear on the sides of them, where they pass the guide plates/ like the ones had that came with the set of rockers had. If I see anything not right, I'm probably gonna put the stock stamped rockers back on. if all looks good, I'll leave them alone. I do have a set of 1.6 rollers for a Magnum here, too (somewhere) This is my wife's daily driver.

I went looking for a set of MP aluminum valve covers/ but new or used, people wanted crazy money for them. There is a guy on Ebay that sells spacers for many common engines to raise the stock valve covers up, so the tops of the rockers wouldn't smack the baffles within the valve covers. These cost me a little less than half what aluminum valve covers would have. and now have to run 2 sets of VC gaskets, that's not a big deal.

oh and the trip? I went down to Savannah GA, with an empty trailer, to pick up some rust free D150 bedsides, that I'd bought from Ebay. (we made a mini vacation out of it, while we were down there) I wound up bringing back more truck parts than I bargained for. (asked for "1 or 2 more things, and the guy said "yeah I have those/ but to get my couple extra parts, now I had to take all his stock of D150 body parts, or none) It towed fine, can't say the extra valve lift helped or not.... only had a problem once and that was loaded, on the way back. I had a pretty steep climb, and I had my foot about 2/3 of the way into it and engine was screaming/ but wasn't accelerating much. I was "stuck" about 30 MPH in 2nd. and wound out to around 4000. and wouldn't gain any more. It had just rained, and I put my foot to the floor. The trans dropped back to 1st, and I lost traction. so I let off, wheels stopped spinning and I and let it get up the hill at its pace. this was heading north, crossing back from US27 back to I-75 just a few miles out of TN into KY. It towed fine the rest of the way, besides that one hill.

Roller tip rockers are over-rated in most cases. A properly set up pad rocker offers a lot of advantages.

That said, when I do use rollers I never, ever run them without lash caps. That protects the valve tip.

I'm having a hard time understanding how a roller tip can wear a valve worse than a standard tip unless there is no oil getting there??

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

It either has poor rocker geometry or inadequate oiling. Check the valve tip contact pattern to verify this.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Tip pattern was fine on mine. No oil getting there.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That's good that you checked yours so if and when a problem occurs you can sort it out easier.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!