I seriously considered drilling the exhaust manifold straight through at 5/16", or one drill size larger. The reason I am into all of this is a former owner had the head rebuilt 5 years ago. Along with a lot of original paperwork for the truck was the receipt for that work. He spent over $700 to have the head reworked, but did not remove the manifolds from the header pipe (which I had to cut twice and weld one back together after it was removed from the manifold). On top of that he used a nearly paper thin manifold gasket. I plan to attach the exhaust manifold first (maybe today) and then bring in the intake manifold. I am also moving from a manual choke to an automatic choke and need to adjust the linkage before I put the manifolds on the truck. After disassembly I found heavy carbon deposits on the exhaust manifold faces that meet the head that were likely there when he removed the head. I also found the exhaust manifold casting had an area that was about 1/32" higher than the rest of the surface that meets the intake manifold, so that gasket showed exhaust leaks too. A classic car site I found after searching the VIN number had am advertisement for my truck. The rebuilt head is pictured there. The truck has been driven almost no miles since the head work was done. I have a picture of the fresh head and paperwork on the web site I am putting together, along with 2 different build sheets, original customer sales contract, and the paperwork given to the bank for flooring the vehicle. It is amazing how many accessories are on a D100 pickup with an AM radio and a heater. All of this is on the tahsales.com web page now, which will grow as I keep working on the truck. BTW, I don't have a radio in the dash and I am looking for one, working or not. I can repair a non-working radio if needed (I did it in 1977 for a living).

I finally have everything cleaned and painted. I am going to install the manifolds today, but I have a question. The BBD-8137S carburetor I am using has an automatic choke, and I have a new choke thermostat installed and adjusted. The question is the electrical wiring. Is there a current limiting resistor in line with the power lead, or do I connect it directly to a 12 Volt ignition source?

D

stainless steel cold welds and galls. the only time you should use stainless steel for anything is if you really need the anti corrosion properties and cant do something else instead. if you must use stainless, you have to use anti seize or the fastener rusting on wont be the problem

Not removing the manifolds from the header pipe, or separating the manifolds is how I got into this mess. I did not do that, but the person who spent all the money to recondition the head did. They did not even try to clean up the carbon on the mating surfaces and used a thin gasket. It is all together now and waiting for an accellerator pump cup to get it running.... I hope. I still need to recheck the torque on the manifold bolts. My torque wrench started at 10 Lbs and the click was very mild to un-noticible. I just purchased a torque wrench that is near the middle of its adjustment at 10 Lbs, so I hope I can make certain the torque is right for all the bolts now.