Don't you have Los Pep Muchachos down there? Manuel, Moe and Jack??

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Wha'da hell is that?

I gotta tell you, fixing a good ole american engine down here can be more complicated than a wenkel roto engine

by the way (i'm postng this separately but maybe someone reads this here)

what means 15L on a dist govnor? The slots are radial instead of kinda slanted... and it has that label on it 15L

http://www.pepboys.com/

A ubiquitous American icon...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Thanks folks

you've been extremely helpful.

So far I rerouted the fuel line, marked my timing cover with TDC and 10 BTDC position (looking on another slant that actually has the tab) and rearranged my timing (i was on initial ~18*) Also I added a fuel gases separator (i don't know how you call that, is kinda filter wich connects like this: fuel pump to one side, fuel outlet on the bottom and fuel return on top with a hose goin back to the tank that I already had routed) and readjusted my valvle lash to .08 intake and .12 ex (the guy who grinded that cam told me to set both to .10) the beast seems quiet now (I don't wanna speak out loud so the car ain't hear me)

The cam grinder told me to use 30 deg MAX advance.... he sez that the cam's already like 2 or 3 deg advanced
so I followed his specs and got my recently reworked R9 govnor dist initially at ~12 and wow! pinging above 65 has gone for good (i hope)

tomorrow I'll do a long cruise to see what happens.
may I repeat how much I appreciate all your collaboration!

Dennis: now I got the pep boys thingy.

Juan:
1.- 10°-12° parece ser el avance donde mejor trabaja el \6. En cuánto al pistoneo que tienes debe ser por que el avance por vacío puede estar conectado a una fuente de vacío del múltiple (debajo de la mariposa vacío constante a culaquier velocidad) y no al puerto de vacío correcto (arriba de la mariposa). Ve tu foto número 10 en tu post del holley. Ahi tienes 3 niples de vacío; uno grande 3/8" para la válvula PCV, a la izquierda de éste uno pequeño que se puede ver baja hacia el múltiple y otro igual, curvado, que "sube" hacia el venturi. Este es para el vacío del avance. No genera vacío en ralentí y solo "jala" cuando las revoluciones del motor están cerca o por arriba de las 900-1000 rpms

2.- ¿Porqué regulaste las valvulas a .008 admisión y .012 escpae cuando el \6 debe ir .010 y .020 respectivamente?
(Ve al foro)

http://www.dodge-tech.com.ar/soop/forum ... z+valvulas

No es que necesites saber como se regulan las válvulas sino que el también se menciona que deben ir a .010 y 020.

Saludos

_________________
Rafa

Hecho en México

Hola Rafa and sorry you guys, we'll have this conversation in spanish

rafa

mi arbol de levas no es estándar, así que por eso está la regulación de válvulas cambiada.

en un post anterior, pongo que como menso que soy, confundí el puerto de vacio del distribuidor con el del limitador del cebador, que ese es constante. ya está aclarado, no? soy un tontín

ya arreglé el carro, tenía una sumatoria de problemas pequeños que me estaban volviendo loco. cambié el trayecto de la línea de combustible, instalé un separador de gases de combustible con manguera de retorno al tnque, regulé válvulas, seteé mejor el avance inicial y terminé de modificar mi distribuidor. ronronea como un gatito bueno.

gracias por tu ayuda.

Juan

I have a Comp 264 cam and it calls for .010" intake, and .012" exhaust lash. I actually worried for a long time that it was a typo, even though the Comp Cams tech line said it wasn't, but my mind was put at ease by several people "in the know" here. So when you explained that the guy who ground your cam said to run .010"/.010", I got the picture, even though one would think the exhaust lash should be looser due to the heat.

Still, I wonder what drives the lash requirements for various different grinds... Any cam experts wanna explain?

Juan, glad you got your motor purring like a kitten

D/W

P. S. - Funny thing is, I don't even speak Spanish, but I got most of what you guys were saying - old car talk is the universal language!

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Ha ha, Juan Never meant to say you were a tontín....ja ja (I'm now laughing in spanish) just gathered from your post subject "run outta ideas and still in trouble" that you might be overlooking the obvious, and in all sincerity I was not aware that different cam profiles needed different lash settings. Not that I am into high performance engines or the like, my \6 79 Valiant/Volare is just a daily driver that is not driven daily, but still like to learn all I can get about these engines.

Glad it's all ok now.

Dennis, as for your question "Still, I wonder what drives the lash requirements for various different grinds... Any cam experts wanna explain?", I just found the following reply to someone else by Doc Dutra:

"Valve lash settings will be different for different cam profiles.
A cam lobe has a "lash ramp" where the base circle of the lobe starts to transition into the "flank" of the lobe. This lead-in ramp is gradual, it is designed to take-up the lifter clearance (lash) and start lifter acceleration gently, before getting into the major lift area of the lobe profile. Using a dial indicator on a factory SL6 exhaust lobe you will see appx .022 of lifter rise over about 40 degrees of rotation, basically, very slow movement at first.

The trick is to know where this slow movement area is and to set the lash to stay in that area. Set the lash too loose and the lifter never contacts the lead-in ramp and slams right into high velocity lift on the flank of the lobe. Set the lash too tight and the valve spends a lot more time a "crack open" which can burn a exhaust valve.

So in the end, other cam profiles will have different lash ramp shapes and therefore, different lash settings. Start by using the setting given by your cam card but then try some different adjustment. I go looser until I hear some noise then tighten back down .002 to .003
DD
Unquote.

you can see the whole story at:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... lash#49173

And yes, wrenching is an interntional language....

Saludos

_________________
Rafa

Hecho en México

cars and music are two of the universal languages

I don't know much theory about cams, but I suppose that this kinda cams with low ex gap are regrind...


and the car... is purring like a tiger! with my free flow duals nice WOT sound untill 2800~3000 rpm when it kinda shuts down and you ain't feel nothing. By the way, I'm running 80mph@3000 rpm with a 3.07 rear end... that sounds nice?

Hola Rafa

I ain't taking no offense i'm the first one happy to kick my own butt when I make a mistake. Unfortunately, I have my behind VERY bruced!

by the way, very interesting post by doc (as always, he's one of the guys I'm always happy to read) Doc's help is unvaluable, it's like D/W's when you have to go hard on holley's back

see you guys

Man, I had the same problems with my 225 in my '68 Valiant. Thanks for all the suggestions even though I didnt ask. I dunno if this will work, but my Uncle told me to reroute the fuel line and replace the rubber line with a metal one so it doesnt collaspe. Just a thought.

Man, I had the same problems with my 225 in my '68 Valiant. Thanks for all the suggestions even though I didnt ask. I dunno if this will work, but my Uncle told me to reroute the fuel line and replace the rubber line with a metal one so it doesnt collaspe. Just a thought.

Man, I had the same problems with my 225 in my '68 Valiant. Thanks for all the suggestions even though I didnt ask. I dunno if this will work, but my Uncle told me to reroute the fuel line and replace the rubber line with a metal one so it doesnt collaspe. Just a thought.

Sorry about those extra post, im new and i didnt see it post the first time.

Holy Cow! You sure must have a happy trigger finger! Welcome to da site...

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!