That is exactly what I was thinking but DD says.... "I always drill a .020 size hole in the front oil gallery plug to spray oil on the chain. "

The point is to get a stream of oil into the chain area so we do not have to rely on oil mist to lube the chain & gears. Even if you shoot the stream straight forward, the spinning gear will chop-up the stream and throw a lot of oil all around the inside of the timing chain cover.

I like to direct the oil stream toward the chain so I drill the hole from the backside out on the edge of the plug. Screw the plug in tight and mark the edge closet to the chain. When drilling up the side of the plug, try not to break thru into the center square "socket". Try to angle the hole slightly so it breaks-out right into the top of the threads. You can use a little dab of solder, braze or epoxy at the outer end of the hole then redrill it smaller, at more of an angle if needed. Peening over the edge of the hole is another way to "fan-out" the stream of oil so it goes everywhere.
DD

This is great stuff!

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

OK, I did it. I drilled a .020" hole at an angle in the oil galley plug to squirt oil at the timing chain and sprocket. Here are some pictures. My camera will not get me a good detail closeup of the plug. I used a 1/8" end mill to mill an angle step into the side and another in the bottom of the plug. Then drilled a .043" hole from the back side and finished with a .020" through hole. At first I though the hole came out the side way too close to the block, but after trying it, it is just right. Otherwise I would have notched the block to clear the oil squirt.
The angle steps I milled into the plug allow the hole to enter and exit perpendicular to a flat surface. When screwed into the block, I can insert the drill in the hole and there is plenty of clearance all around where the oil stream should be.

Doug, have you tried to shoot oil through a .020" hole under pressure to know if it comes out in a stream or if it just dribbles out?

That is good stuff! Nice pics!

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Hot 30wt oil at 35-55 psi of pressure will come out of that .020 hole in a spray more then a stream. All that pressure and turbulence will also prevent any sludge from building-up in the hole.

If you want to test it, get a section of pipe, put some fittings on it so you can screw the plug on one end and connect compressed air on the other.
Fill the pipe with oil and hit it with some air pressure.
(Do this test outside and away from stuff you don't want "oiled" )

You did a great job with that plug, your T-chain will get plenty of oil now!
DD

Any chance we could update this thread with some links to pics that work? I think my timing chain is making noise so here I am reading up on them...

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

One thing I remember of the MP chain sets was the crank gear is made of powdered metal. That was back in the late 70's for my BB.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Here is a photo of a front oil gallery plug for an aluminum block SL6, it shows the idea.


These days, I put a small chamfer on the edge of the front main bearing to shoot a stream of oil out to the timing gears and chain.
DD

Now that looks like an elegant solution and would certainly be easier than drilling and brazing a galley plug.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Doc,

Thanks for the pics, that does look like a great way to oil the chain. I noticed that you mentioned this on the "twins" engine thread. I also noted that you said most higher end bearing manufacturing companys used to do this but not anymore.

I'm still trying to get a better idea of how to keep a new timing chain happy in my old slant. I have lately noticed a lot of timing chain slap coming from the engine. I did a vacuum gauge test today, I plan on doing compression tests soon, but so far everything about the engine seems sound enough to just replace the chain while the engine is in the car. I'm starting to plan on the chain, dampener(wobble), hoses, belts, gaskets out front etc. I however do not want to go beyond that if I can help it so i'm studying up on your oil hole in the plug mod.

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74 Dodge Charger 225 factory A/C auto 1920 carb stock exhaust.

Mods;
HEI, MSD B3, Magnecor 8 mm, ZFR5N, .060 rotor, CH410X cap, new 3874814 dist, fuel mod, valves hot .010 & .020, all new hoses, JP chain, brake hoses and fluid.

I just put a little groove in my front cam bearing, from oil hole forward, with a round file.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That was done with a flat file Doc?


And did you file both sides? I see the arrow area, + on the other side of the groove?

Did you do both bearing halfs?

Do you have a top edge view of that bearing?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick