NewLancerMan has a pair of mounts listed in the 'Parts For Sale' section now.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I did manage to score the early motor mount brackets and a 225 engine from an early 1970s truck. The number on the pad near the head reads G 225 T 2 1. I have no idea what G means, but I assume 225 = engine size and 2 1= Feb 1971? The oil pan on this one is a huge dude with no windage tray inside it. I am assuming this isn’t going to work in a 64 A body? So I guess I am still going to be looking for a ‘61-‘66 A body pan and valve cover with the “lines” in it and no PCV plug; to give it a stock appearance.

Pretty sure those mount brackets will not work.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I, too, am pretty sure those won't work. You're looking for '62-'66 passenger car mount brackets. However, maybe the trucks used the same brackets; show us pics of what you found.
G: engine built for 1971 model year
225: Engine displacement
T: Trenton engine plant or truck engine, depending on who stamped it, where, and when.
2 1: Engine built on 1 February 1971
…will need to come from a '60-'66 A-body. Same with the oil pickup tube assembly.
The PCV valve lives in a chimney at the rear of the '61-'65 valve covers. '66-'69 covers have the ridges, too, but the rear chimney is replaced by the same rubber grommet setup as used on the smooth-top '70-up covers. The '66-'69 cover is a lot easier to deal with in terms of finding and mounting good quality, correctly-calibrated PCV valves.

If your car has an automatic transmission, you'll need a spacer bushing to adapt the '68-up larger crankshaft counterbore to the '67-down small-nose torque converter.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

In an early post he stated was using the later trans, so doesn't need the bushing. But he will have to Modify the shifter system. Also the kickdown linkage. (OP, you must use the kickdown unless using a full manual valve body in the trans.)

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes, I scored the engine plus a set of the early A body mount brackets (but the engine still had the truck mount brackets, so if anybody is looking for a set, hit me up and lets see if we can strike a deal. I know I won’t use them). Thanks for decoding the engine. The seller thought it was either a 70 or 71 engine. I thought it was new enough to work with the 904 I have (I believe it date codes to be a ‘72) but not new enough to have the lighter weight block, crank, hydraulic lifters, etc. and that was fine by me. Yes, the old push button set up will be history and it’ll probably end up with a Mr. Gasket style automatic floor shifter. Maybe, someday, the electric shifting technology will be cheap enough that somebody will make a unit what works between the newer 904 and the buttons for reasonable money … but until then, I will have to settle for a shifter that kinda looks like a 4 speed Hurst but “just goes back and forth”. I know someone was modifying/adapting the cables to work but I am not sure that’s still happening or if I want to invest in it. Thanks for the info on the valve covers and oil pan. I think I like the idea of the ‘66-69 valve cover. Really, it’s all about appearances and giving it a touch of the original look, so if the ‘66-9 functions a little better and (assuming) would be slightly more plentiful, that’s a good thing! I’ll start that search after I get the cylinder walls bored and have all my new pistons, ring, bearings and gaskets. Unfortunately, I work under budget restrictions but my priorities are “I want it all now”! The struggle is real! My number one piston took on water, thus the need to overbore. Two of the pits in there are pretty deep, so I was thinking of just having them all cut .040 (even if a .020 or .030 cut was enough to cut past the damage). I am not looking to build for performance, but my thinking is that grabbing just a few extra horses would make the unexpected cost of the machine work and new pistons go down a little easier. Seem to be about the same money no matter a .020, .030, or .040 cut so I figure why not … but am I missing anything by going over what I might minimally need? I am usually a minimalist when it comes to cutting the bores (for better heat distribution and block strength, I always thought it better to keep as much metal as the engineers intended) but with a 225, they seem so heavy and overbuilt that losing a little extra metal to up the cubes seems alright? I still want to use the bottom end parts that don’t need machine work, so if a .040 oversize necessitates building a stronger bottom end, I probably don’t want to open that can of worms unnecessarily. I still have a bunch of other restoration work ahead of me and I have to consider that the extra cash of building a bottom end could be used elsewhere on the car. I’d honestly considered just shopping for a better used engine, but it looks like for the price of cutting the bores plus the bigger pistons and rings, it all works out to about the same money and unknowns of buying another engine without the hassle of running around to find another one.

Also, I was planning to use the cable set up for kickdown and I understand that a late ‘60s-early 70s A body speedometer cable will work; assuming I need the gear that’s correct for the 904. I assume any 69 to 73ish Valiant or Dart 904 speedo cable and gear will do the job? The 904 I have last lived in a ‘65 Valiant that got a 4 speed conversion, so the transmission came with the cables and slip yoke and I score a driveshaft to replace the ball and trunnion style. Since the Barracuda was originally a V8, it already has a throttle cable, so adapting it to whatever 1 bbl carb I end up using should be reasonably straightforward.

Thanks to all for your input.

Now I'm confused. I thought you said you were going to use a 68 or newer 904 trans.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I am using a 1972 model 904 that last lived in a ‘65 Valiant. I can’t tell you how or when it came to live there, but the owner of the Valiant decided to switch it from this 904 to a 4 speed and I bought all of his left overs after he did his swap. I got the transmission, slip yoke, torque converter, flex plate, all the hardware and covers, the kickdown cable, and a “sidewinder” aftermarket floor shifter (which I won’t be reusing in the Barracuda). Basically everything to install the transmission. The transmission crossmember was missing but I have the correct one in my possession now.

OK, Got it.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225