That part I like to get to buy. I am planning to make deeper oil pan for a turbo slantsix.

Make offer with PM

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

The only difference between the V8 center link and the \6 center link is that the v8 one drops about 1/2" lower. If you are planning on going thru the oil pan with the center link, the \6 one may be better.

I just visited the Firm Feel (firmfeel.com) shop in Vancouver, WA. They sell the lower V8 centerlink for that car, but maybe they are not in stock, and they are not cheap. Very friendly guys and knowledgeable about our old Mopar A-bodies...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I am planning to make the rear section angled to the pan plus add plates plus mods avoiding oil pan oil moving backwards during acceleration. As the /6 link is next to the pan, the V8 link makes some room for this mod.

Oh $#!+ what a price they have for it. Not for me!

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

I have modified several pans for 62-66 A bodies with the stock slant 6 centerlink and have maintained good oil control on road courses. The back part of the pan does not need to be modified except for baffles inside the pan. I recommend lowering the main (center) sump by 2-2.5 cm depth, along with lengthening the pickup tube to park the pickup firmly on the floor of the pan. You do not need the dropped v8 centerlink.

Cheers,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Pictures please, inside and outside.

Do you mean lowering the sump below the K-member. No way with my driving. Depending where I operate my Dart there is always clear signs at K-member "yes it will go there". But I can do baffles inside. Just found that amount of oil makes function of rear seal leak when "performing".

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

Yes baffles inside. Kickout on pass side and deeper sump. I feel that deepening the sump gives the most gain, but the other two things help quite a bit too. You could make a skidplate or raise the car. Contrary to popular opinion, raising the car 1-2" does almost nothing to the handling abilities of the car.

I also make sure the pickup is centered in the sump (either the stock sump floor area, or of the new modified floor area), or I place the pickup opening to be biased toward the position on the floor that solves the acceleration-based cornering/accel/braking problem that is/are giving you dropping oil pressure.

See these pics for 2 of my ~ 5 oilpan modification projects.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16910097@ ... 0728814254

There are tons of other pics of my cars on this site too.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16910097@N06/albums/

Happy Slanted motoring...
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I noted the oil leveled up started oil leak. So deeper sump would be helpful. Lets see. I am planning a winter I dont lift the engine out of car. Ao probably I keep oil level a little lower until I have open it again. As this car retarded for track days it will run well with limited amount of oil.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

Sounds good. I just remembered you have a 170. One thought I have had before is to raise the engine 1" or more and maybe the transmission mount too. This would be easier with a 170. This would require reworking the trans tunnel. Then you could lower the car more and make an oilpan with deeper sump. Certainly not easy, but possibly worth some thought.

If you deepen the sump by 1", you can make a skidplate to protect the newly lowered sump. Yes, I have dented my lowered sumps on various rocks, etc. I have a roughly made skidplate on one car and I should work on the other ones. 3 cars with lowered sumps, and two LeMons racing cars for which I built lowered/baffled pans.

You should enjoy the car first for a while and maybe worry about a new pan later!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988