Working on a truck cab. '90 model, cab going on my 83.
Drip rail over windshield is holey. I figured lead would stick better and seal better, preventing/ drastically slowing down further rust better than anything else. Thoughts? How to tips?
I've fixed a few cracked copper radiator tanks by soldering over the years, (never replaced a tank by soldering before though) and I've sweated lots of copper plumbing pipe fittings over the years so I kinda understand the process somewhat.
I wish I knew an old school Gene Winfield type around here...

i have only played with it. have not actually used it. but i will.
found this when i started...

https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/lead-lead ... -winfield/

good article, even better how to video

When I re-did my truck I removed the visor mounts and sprayed a rust killing agent up into that area. Many of these trucks rust in that area. I also thought of laying a couple of layers of fiberglass down over those areas.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

There are videos of it being done on youtube. When I put my valiant back together and fix its rust issue I have been very tempted to go the lead route. It is supposed to prevent future rust out way better than bondo. All the old timer customs of the 50s,60s,70's were made with lead. It is what coined the term "lead sled" from my understanding of old hotrodding. Chop tops and the like were leaded.

Just do your research. Modern "lead" solder has a different melting point than the traditional lead from long ago. You can likely buy pure lead still but it is going to be hard to acquire depending on your local laws/regulations. When I last looked eastwood still stocked normal lead in addition to modern lead solder and all the tools required. Make sure to wear your protective gear you won't like the fumes.

The solder used for copper pipes is not the same. I am not sure they will even sell lead solder for plumbing at this point due to the health issues.

Lead won't work for that. The only repair is to cut the rust out and weld new metal in. After that, it would work as smoothing agent just like the plastic fillers. But would be more difficult to work with and require different tools and methodology's.

I tried to get pix. The underside pix won't come out t like I had hoped. Pix of the top side came out blurry at best. The outer (top) layer doesn't look terrible from the underside, , most of the damage is underneath. With the top layer there to "collect" and hold lead or whatever I can fill it with. I don't see being able to get in there from underneath and weld anything in. I can probably use a copper bar as a backup and weld in the few spots that are completely thru. I think if I lay the cab on it's back I can get some lead to stick in there on the underside while using the underside of the top layer (roof skin) as a backer much like it would be if just filling in pitted metal