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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2025 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17167
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I agree with Dan. Johnny/Polybushings is a good way to go. They will not be cheap, but will work forever. Good idea to get a softer compound.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2025 12:31 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:20 am
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands
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You can certainly buy that garbage from RockAuto (or any other source), if you want to have to do the job again soon.

Write to Johnny @ Polybushings and see if he'll make you a softer-than-usual set of the 2303-2304 mounts.
Thanks SlantSixDan, I'll follow your input.
Maybe a stupid question since I am the kind of person that asks when a bolt needs to be tight, 'how tight (Nm / torque).
What is a definition of 'softer than usual set' and the 2303-2304 mount? I have no idea what that means.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2025 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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I think Johnny uses 70-durometer material for those mounts usually. Ask him what the options are for a material that is softer than 70. Tell him you want isolation characteristics similar to the original mounts, but the durability and build quality of his polyurethane ones.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2025 9:06 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:20 am
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands
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I think Johnny uses 70-durometer material for those mounts usually. Ask him what the options are for a material that is softer than 70. Tell him you want isolation characteristics similar to the original mounts, but the durability and build quality of his polyurethane ones.
I got a response that the mounts are 70 duameter and that is the softest there is. I have ZERO idea if that is fine or not. I assume if Johnny is the way to go, then I shouldn't be asking any more questions

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2025 9:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17167
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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They may have a bit more vibration than stock, but they will never wear out or break. Otherwise, it is a crapshoot on what you get with "new" or "NOS" parts.

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2025 2:30 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:20 am
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands
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well the car is not shaking at all, at the moment. it is running so smooth and well adjusted that you don't notice the car running when running stationary (warm engine).

it is only when I start to drive, the engine tilts too much so there is a metallic sound, only on driving away with the most torque, when I press more on the accelerator the sound is gone.

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2025 10:37 am 
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You need new motor mounts, as a priority. This what you describe indicates yours are worn out. This is a serious safety hazard, as well as being bad for many parts of your car. Make a thoughtful decision about what mounts to buy, and go forward with it.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2025 4:47 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:20 am
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands
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Quote:
You need new motor mounts, as a priority. This what you describe indicates yours are worn out. This is a serious safety hazard, as well as being bad for many parts of your car. Make a thoughtful decision about what mounts to buy, and go forward with it.

they are already on their way over the pond :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2025 5:25 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1049
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
In my case this is a damned if you do and damned if you don't.

When I restored and rebuilt all the suspension and drive train parts on my '64 Valiant convertible about thirteen years ago, the only mounts I could find were Anchor. For a few years they were okay, but eventually they began to "mush'. About a year ago, I ordered a set of Poly mounts from Johnny and had a respected local shop install them. When I started the engine and it dropped to idle speed, I was horrified by dozens of rattles and vibrations I'd never heard before! Everyone said it was normal for poly, and that the new noises would lessen as they broke in. They did lessen somewhat, but I'm embarrassed to sit at a stop light and share the vibrating noises with cars around me that are staring at the neat old convertible. No way will I offer a ride to anyone I wanted the car to impress!

Now, I'm in a quandary. I really dislike driving the car the way it is, but I'd hate to buy Chinese replacements to put it back the way it was. Even if I did go with the foreign parts, I'd have a hard time getting them installed since my local shop was kind enough to install the ones I have now and said they were not interested in working on my obsolete cars again. Since I'm eighty-four-years-old, there are some projects I simply can't do anymore, and regular repair shops won't touch a car the age of mine. The only restoration shop around here apparently doesn't have anyone with Mopar knowledge, and their prices are sky high. The one time I asked them to help me locate a low growl in the driveline, they said they couldn't hear it and after the "fine tuning" they did on the carb and timing, I drove home and reset it by ear so it would start and have normal power,

I don't want to disparage Johnny's product in any way. He was totally above board about poly issues, and the product looks as professional as any big company could produce. The hobby needs more guys like him to keep it going!

I just wanted to share one frustrating experience from an old man who should probably grow up and forget past loves.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2025 6:01 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:20 am
Posts: 66
Location: Netherlands
Car Model:
well no way back now... I really want the car to be as smooth as can be. Now regretting to buy these. But the rubber versions are widely available but everyone keeps telling me it is rubbish that you buy...

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1964/ ... mount.html what's wrong with these then?
plus... they will not be shipped overseas...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2025 7:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 610
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
In my case this is a damned if you do and damned if you don't.

When I restored and rebuilt all the suspension and drive train parts on my '64 Valiant convertible about thirteen years ago, the only mounts I could find were Anchor. For a few years they were okay, but eventually they began to "mush'. About a year ago, I ordered a set of Poly mounts from Johnny and had a respected local shop install them. When I started the engine and it dropped to idle speed, I was horrified by dozens of rattles and vibrations I'd never heard before! Everyone said it was normal for poly, and that the new noises would lessen as they broke in. They did lessen somewhat, but I'm embarrassed to sit at a stop light and share the vibrating noises with cars around me that are staring at the neat old convertible. No way will I offer a ride to anyone I wanted the car to impress!

Now, I'm in a quandary. I really dislike driving the car the way it is, but I'd hate to buy Chinese replacements to put it back the way it was. Even if I did go with the foreign parts, I'd have a hard time getting them installed since my local shop was kind enough to install the ones I have now and said they were not interested in working on my obsolete cars again. Since I'm eighty-four-years-old, there are some projects I simply can't do anymore, and regular repair shops won't touch a car the age of mine. The only restoration shop around here apparently doesn't have anyone with Mopar knowledge, and their prices are sky high. The one time I asked them to help me locate a low growl in the driveline, they said they couldn't hear it and after the "fine tuning" they did on the carb and timing, I drove home and reset it by ear so it would start and have normal power,

I don't want to disparage Johnny's product in any way. He was totally above board about poly issues, and the product looks as professional as any big company could produce. The hobby needs more guys like him to keep it going!

I just wanted to share one frustrating experience from an old man who should probably grow up and forget past loves.
Firmer motor mounts don't cause rattles. They cause an increase in vibrations. The rattles are caused by loosely attached/flexing parts that vibrate with the increase in vibrations. Have you considered addressing the parts that are transmitting the noises themselves. The softtop cars are quite a bit more flexible so I would always expect a bit more rattling than the sedans/hardtops.

Changing your exhaust hanger system and adding a flex joint can go a long way to decreasing noises. The solidly mounted exhaust systems are basically a sound tube that is 11 feet long. The commonly used cheap hanger don't have very much room for movement/dampening. here is an example of what was common on old cars and another that is used on almost every modern car.

https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Hangers- ... d22cc1fcdd

https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-muffler- ... 53b69&th=1

Adding some mass loaded vinyl in key locations or a good butyl sound deadener(dynamat) also makes a huge improvement.

Check to see if you the seam sealer that "glues" your hood skin to its support braces has dried out and cracked. That hood panel will make a huge amount of noise when it is no longer secured to its supports, it basically becomes a drum the size of your hood.

My daily driver for the last 6 years has been a late 90's manual trans honda CRV. These early crvs were not known for good NVH. Mine is quiet entirely because I took the time to address the issues the factory didn't. Now if I drive a similar CRV I remember the time spent because the difference is very obvious immediately.

Having firmer mounts is not an impossible challenge to overcome. Sounds like you need to adopt a neighbor kid/nephew/grandkid that wants to learn and help.


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