My D100 spent a lot of time as a Washington State University farm truck. Needless to say it is the definition of a rust bucket. I am now tackling the body work - broken door hinge bolts, sketch door skins , dented rocker panels, and barely there bed cross members. So my ask is if anyone has an opinion about what I understand is a new gadget called an induction coil bolt heater.  It is supposed to break the grip of rust with no flame. I have been using PB Blaster mostly and sparingly heat from a propane torch where nothing will melt. Maybe there is even something even better. I look forward to any advice provided.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Yup. Use an induction heater all the time. In fact I was using mine about 2 hours ago at work, heating nuts on an exhaust manifold on a POS 2017 Ford exploder state Police cruiser. The cat converters are the manifolds on these
(Side note, I hate vehicles with the engine in sideways)
An induction heater works good where you're close to things that like to burn where a torch is needed but not the best idea ..

Induction heaters were a required tool for a Chrysler recall around 10 years ago. It was a fuel tank/trailer hitch recall on jeep liberty.

There is nothing wrong with sideways motors when installed/engineered by a sane person. Ford designed the explorer to be either front wheel drive(sideways), rear wheel drive(not sideways), awd (sideways again). True crazy engineers that hate their owners/techs.

I admit I had never heard of a "Bolt Buster" and after checking it out I found there are lots of different brands. So I have to ask who is using what brand/make and your experience with it. I am attempting to loosen a rusted track adjuster on my skid steer which will cost lots of money to replace if I end up having to cut it off to replace it. And no I did not let it get this way, it was this way when I purchased the machine.

I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you.

Fred

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I don't do texting

Work had a bolt buster brand, I have a mini ductor " venom" model. Between them the bolt buster dies a better job(faster) and seems more durable. I've had to send mine in twice now for repairs, this most recent time they just exchanged it for brand new. The original mini ductor was better, the only thing I think that might be better about mine vs the bolt buster is that mine is shaped like many timing lights, as in the handle is about 45* to the barrel, which helps get it into tighter spot better than the bolt buster which is completely straight barrel.

Back when I worked industrial maintenance we had an induction heater to heat up press fit bearings. Most common ones I used it for were about 6" ID. You would take this laminated square bar about 2" square off the machine and slide it thru the bearing and set the bearing and bar on the machine, turn it on and watch the bearing buzz and spin around the bar, as you hit it with a "thermo melt" crayon (these come on different temp ratings
for that one we used a 250* crayon) until the crayon starts to melt on the inner race... Grab your welding gloves, and quickly take bearing off heater, and slide it on the shaft which was packed in bags of ice while we heated the bearing. You had to be quick and make sure you had it started straight and shove it in place
If it "stuck" before the bearing was where it belonged you had to cut the new bearing off and started over with another new bearing....