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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2025 6:02 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue May 24, 2011 10:07 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Portland OR
Car Model:
I need to put in a new "holder/bracket" for my accessory fuse in this fuse block. Not sure how the old one fell out but there I am.

Not sure if I need to remove the fuse block to do this, or just get a replacement holder and snap it in.

I've easily sourced the fuses but can't find anything resembling the bracket / holder. I could hit a salvage yard near me (Portland OR) if this is the kind of thing I could pull from an old car.

Thanks for the guidance!
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1964 Dodge Dart 270


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2025 4:23 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2023 5:12 am
Posts: 235
Location: Hudson Valley, NY
Car Model: 1964 Dart 270 4-Door
Was there ever a fuse in that slot?

Was your car made with any electrical accessories, other than the radio and heater?

What year and model is it?

– Eric


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2025 5:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 17571
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Often the factory fuse boxes have one or more slot with no bracket (ever). Those would have been for extra optional accessories.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2025 11:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1423
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
I would just add an inline fuse.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2025 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 25011
Location: North America
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here y'go, nice shiny new fuseblock clips.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 4:02 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2025 7:12 pm
Posts: 3
Car Model: Dodge Dart 240
Follow up (a year late!).

Yes, definitely was a fuse there. Without it, I have no dashboard / tach lights. This fuse is the "accessory" fuse.

I'm going to try to go inline so I don't have to mess around much with the fusebox - assuming I ease out the box from below the dash? Unscrewed it already and it feels pretty tight in there. I don't to mess up any other fuses.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 25011
Location: North America
Car Model:
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the fusebox screw.
3. Push the fusebox up toward the sky until it clears the ledge it's seated in, then push it toward the front of the car and down it'll drop, ready for you to install the replacement clip I linked.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2026 12:12 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2025 7:12 pm
Posts: 3
Car Model: Dodge Dart 240
AND .. I am officially not smart! :-)

So the poster above WAS right there are no wires connected to that space in the fuse box. I think Dan redirected that one when he installed the AWESOME Alpine sound system.

Which raises the question that started my quest and I could post as a separate thread - why would my tash / dash lights go out and seemingly at the same time, my gas gauge isn;t registering? I assumed a fuse but maybe that's wrong.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2026 11:47 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Check if your tail lights work. The dashboard lights and the tail lights are (in most cases) commonly wired so you have at least feeble indication that you're invisible from behind at night.

Other than that: could be a faulty multi-pin connector where the wires plug onto your instrument cluster circuit board behind the dash. Could also easily be coincidence – crummy dash light rheostat in the headlight switch kills the dash lights, and faulty (woe is you) or ungrounded sender or dead gauge head kills the fuel gauge.

Does the engine temperature gauge work, or is it dead, too? Because if it is, that's usually the instrument cluster voltage limiter. Built into the gauge on the '63, not a separate plug-on unit, but that's easily reworked.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2026 9:02 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2025 7:12 pm
Posts: 3
Car Model: Dodge Dart 240
Quote:
Check if your tail lights work. The dashboard lights and the tail lights are (in most cases) commonly wired so you have at least feeble indication that you're invisible from behind at night.

Other than that: could be a faulty multi-pin connector where the wires plug onto your instrument cluster circuit board behind the dash. Could also easily be coincidence – crummy dash light rheostat in the headlight switch kills the dash lights, and faulty (woe is you) or ungrounded sender or dead gauge head kills the fuel gauge.

Does the engine temperature gauge work, or is it dead, too? Because if it is, that's usually the instrument cluster voltage limiter. Built into the gauge on the '63, not a separate plug-on unit, but that's easily reworked.


Gas and Heat gauge: Both out! Nailed that one.

Tail lights: Work! (Lame excuse to show my back end).

Last picture, sad dark dashbaord.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2026 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Not seeing pics, but use these instrux to retrofit this limiter and both gauges should come back. Dash light problem almost certainly completely unrelated, but just to make sure, check that multi-pin connector on the back of the dash.

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