I still have the stock setup. I've replaced the exhaust gasket between the manifold and the pipe a few times now. It burns out within a few months. Last time I put two of them in there. I really thought I cinched the bolts down evenly, but it still burnt out. The exhaust pipe is fairly new, and is not rusted. What is the secret to getting a good seal here?

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'71 Dart Swinger

Had the same problem, wnet through tons of gaskets and enough RTV to seal an aircraft carrier. I finally figured out the angle of the pipe would not allow a good seal. I had the boys at Midas redo the angle and weld the pipes. Problem solved.

Thanks. What did they charge you to weld it up?

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'71 Dart Swinger

I also had them put a new muffler and tailpipe on so I don't have an itemized bill but the whole bill was 160 bucks parts and labor. I would imagine any welder could also do that. I just knew the muffler and pipe wouldn't last much longer and wanted different sound, so I had it all done at once. Sorry I can't give you more specifics.

Have had the same problem with my '64 Valiant...

Seems to be either angle of flange on e-pipe, or the surface on the exhaust outlet is no longer perfectly flat...

After going through about six "correct" gaskets ( soft stuff always burned-off, leaving the metal core), I got a 10 x 10 in. piece of the white gasket stock that Mr. Gasket sells for things like header collectors, and other high heat places... I made up gaskets out of that stuff ( I think I put two in there), and did a little tweaking to make the stack thinner across the bolt holes than at edges, then bolted it all up...

This has held-up for over a year, better than anything else I've tried.


Should last until I pull the engine for rebuild, then I will have the manifolds checked and surfaced as needed...


Good Luck!

De Soto Frank

Thank you De Soto Frank! I think I will try that.

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'71 Dart Swinger

Check the surface of the flange to be sure it is flat.
Many times the "ears" with the bolt holes get bent upward to the point where you can not get "crush" on the outer edges of the gasket.
I grind these flat to prevent that problem.
http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... nge-cl.jpg

Once the flange is flat, I bolt-up the pipe section and make sure the flange gets full and even contact before installing the rest of the exhaust system. I have seen a header pipe drop down and hit the oil pan rail before allowing the flange / gasket to make full contact. (it kept blowing the inner - middle section of the gasket no matter what I did, that is until I put a well placed dent in the pipe to allow full and even gasket "crush")
DD

I had the exact same problem. All of the previously stated solutions should work fine IMHO, but my "lazy man's" alternative was to take it to a muffler shop, where they unbolted the flange, cut the pipe off, and took the flange over to a vise. He then proceeded to beat the crap out of the flange, bending the bolt ears back into place. Hasn't leaked since then. Cost me $15, but now I know how to fix it myself, if it ever happens again...

VM

You can get a new exhaust flange from Layson's and take it to a good muffler shop to have new pipe welded to it.

Allright guys, I did the wrong thing. I had my wife take it to the exhaust shop. I only did it since she had to work right next to the exhaust shop this morning. She knows cars. I was not worried. She called me and said they would fix it right away.

I went to meet her for lunch. The car sounded good. I popped the hood to take a look. The lazy *******s cut the sides of my heat shield off!!!! They were too lazy to take it off!!! It was in the way, so they just torched the sides off to get to the pipe. I have taken that shield off twice recently, so I know it was not impossible to remove. They did not take the pipe off. They did not grind anything flat. They cut my heat shield up, gooped a bunch of red RTV in there, sealed it up, and charged me fourty dollars!!!

This is how I got into fixing cars. Paying people to do crappy work didn't appeal to me. So, I began fixing things myself. I haven't had an automobile in a shop for a number of years. I thought this was a simple job for an exhaust shop. I am pissed!!!! I am going back after work to have a few words with the idiot that worked on my car.

How important is that heat shield? I don't care if it doesn't even need to be there, the guy shouldn't have hacked it up. I would just like to have any necessary information when I go back.

Sorry for the long post.... I think I am just ranting now....

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'71 Dart Swinger

I wouldn't waste too much time being angry about the poor workmanship. (although it would be completely justified)

I recently had a really, really bad experience with a Chrysler dealer, and I needed to blow off some steam at the service manager, but it didn't really get me anywhere.

If you take it back, they might see their mistake and offer to correct the problem , but I suggest you don't let it ruin your week if they don't.

Try to get a refund or a better repair, or move on with the knowledge that this isn't a place to ever take your car again. Possibly contact the local better business buro.

There are other exhaust shops and more important things in life than getting satisfaction for your $40.

Hope you can find a better place to go in the future.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Well, I took it back and talked to the owner of the shop. He offered to refund the $40. He didn't think it was a big deal that the part got cut up, but he still offered a refund. I told him that half would be fine since they did seal the exhaust. I'm happy. I'm actually surprised he was cool enough to check it out and do something about it.

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'71 Dart Swinger

I'm guessing they used a copper infused RTV. I've used it on that gasket and the metal gasket between the exhaust and intake with good luck.

Hacking away at the shield just was not cool however......

Kevin

Those guys at the exhaust shops do think they can fix anything with a "hot wrench".
I have some extra heat shields if you need one.
DD